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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 111

post #1651 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

When it became common for men to go without a waist covering.  My shirt takes 5 studs, and the bib goes all the way down into the waistband.  It's evolved over time.  Anyway, you should still only show three studs - I have a vintage set, with only three studs, and wear those as the top three, that show above my waistcoat.  For the last two I use two of the cheapo studs that came with the shirt.

What kind of shirt(s) are you planning to get?

Does this also have to do with men's trouser waists getting lower as the years went on? Even with a waist covering (if it is a cummerbund, I guess) you'll end up showing more shirt than in years bast since even "regular" rise trousers are lower than in the first half of last century.

I also wonder whether this happened by accident: stud makers began including an extra stud (when they stopped being made from precious metals, most likely) as a spare and shirt makers interpreted this as a need to include a fourth hole.

As an aside, why not have buttons sewn on for the final two to reduce the risk of panic if one of the cheap studs gets lost?
post #1652 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

When it became common for men to go without a waist covering.
The above statement has stuck itself in the back of my mind for the last week and I couldn't put my finger on it until just now...
Quote:
Originally Posted by World English Dictionary 
common (ˈkɒmən) — adj 7. derogatory considered low-class, vulgar, or coarse: a common accent
THAT'S why I thought it was so eloquent.
post #1653 of 3092
Hi guys,

I'm attending a family wedding at West Point this fall.

The dress for the dinner reception is tuxedo optional.

So I am opting for a tuxedo.

I doubt I'll get much of a chance to wear a tuxedo that often, but having one in the closet ready to go could lead to more invitations :-) however this will be a budget package!


So I've picked up this from Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221257038782?var=520157202529&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I plan to purchase a shirt and studs from Kent Wang, and a bowtie from Hober

Now I need shoes.

I'm leaning towards these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TNYTZS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Or these

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/barker/products/4444.php

Or cringe!! These...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EZYOTM/ref=gno_cart_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any advice or opinions are welcome
post #1654 of 3092

My early seventies Brooks Brothers dress trousers are very high-waisted (by current standards) and come up slightly higher than my lowest rib.  There are no belt loops, the suspender buttons are on the outside, and for some bizarre reason, the trousers have a watch pocket.

I have noticed that some more recent dress trousers have belt loops, are worn with belts an no waist covering, and seem to end several inches short of the wearer's belly buttons.  These trousers look silly to me.

Looking through the pictures from the Los Angeles Times of an event that was held in the old Beverly Hills post office, one can see all sorts of more recent versions of "Black Tie".....

http://www.latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-annenberg-20131021,0,5719820.story



 

post #1655 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siwash View Post

Hi guys,

I'm attending a family wedding at West Point this fall.

The dress for the dinner reception is tuxedo optional.

So I am opting for a tuxedo.

I doubt I'll get much of a chance to wear a tuxedo that often, but having one in the closet ready to go could lead to more invitations :-) however this will be a budget package!


So I've picked up this from Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221257038782?var=520157202529&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I plan to purchase a shirt and studs from Kent Wang, and a bowtie from Hober

Now I need shoes.

I'm leaning towards these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TNYTZS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Or these

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/barker/products/4444.php

Or cringe!! These...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EZYOTM/ref=gno_cart_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any advice or opinions are welcome

Of those, get the formal loafers. I have them and love them. If you want a lace up, get closed lace. A calf skin closed lace oxford, well polished, is better than a patent Derby. Whole cuts are also a sleek option. But, if it were me, I would go for the CK Guildford.
post #1656 of 3092
Definitely wear a tux. The cadets will all be in full dress and the officers/enlisted will be in full dress mess, as a former WP guy, don't sell yourself short, it's a great place to look your best.
post #1657 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moloch38 View Post

Definitely wear a tux. The cadets will all be in full dress and the officers/enlisted will be in full dress mess, as a former WP guy, don't sell yourself short, it's a great place to look your best.

Thanks!

the groom is a 2 star so should be a great time
post #1658 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelesStyle View Post


Does this also have to do with men's trouser waists getting lower as the years went on? Even with a waist covering (if it is a cummerbund, I guess) you'll end up showing more shirt than in years bast since even "regular" rise trousers are lower than in the first half of last century.

I also wonder whether this happened by accident: stud makers began including an extra stud (when they stopped being made from precious metals, most likely) as a spare and shirt makers interpreted this as a need to include a fourth hole.

As an aside, why not have buttons sewn on for the final two to reduce the risk of panic if one of the cheap studs gets lost?

 

I think that the cummerbund is worn at about the same place as it always has been, just that now more of it is over shirt, and in the past more of it was over pants, but the top edge is in roughly the same place.  Waistcoats are longer, but the cutout should be about the same size.  In either case, one should show three studs, and that has not changed.  I think that lower rise trousers, in general, make men uncomfortable with the unfamiliar idea of a high waist.  That may have to do with wearing jeans every day growing up, which is commonplace in my generation, but was not for people much older than me (I was born in 82).  They look in the mirror and it looks wrong to their eye, because it is not familiar - I was in that camp for a while, wanting my suit and dress trousers to be around my hips, but I have become comfortable with higher rise trousers since I have recognized that they are just a different look.

post #1659 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siwash View Post

Hi guys,

I'm attending a family wedding at West Point this fall.

The dress for the dinner reception is tuxedo optional.

So I am opting for a tuxedo.

I doubt I'll get much of a chance to wear a tuxedo that often, but having one in the closet ready to go could lead to more invitations :-) however this will be a budget package!


So I've picked up this from Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221257038782?var=520157202529&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I plan to purchase a shirt and studs from Kent Wang, and a bowtie from Hober

Now I need shoes.

I'm leaning towards these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TNYTZS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Or these

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/barker/products/4444.php

Or cringe!! These...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EZYOTM/ref=gno_cart_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any advice or opinions are welcome

Do you have a proper pair of black, cap-toe oxfords? If not, I would highly recommend investing in a quality pair, before indulging in patents.
post #1660 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTM View Post

Do you have a proper pair of black, cap-toe oxfords? If not, I would highly recommend investing in a quality pair, before indulging in patents.

Sorry to disagree, but cap-toes are inappropriate for eveningwear, and burgundy cap-toes are far more versitle. If you're recommending a single pair for multiple uses, they should be plain-toe oxfords in black. The problem with this, however, is that as you add shoes this pair will eventually fall into disuse. I'd bite the bullet and buy patent oxfords (bluchers will suffice).
post #1661 of 3092
Stay away from the patent!
post #1662 of 3092
Why do you say that?
post #1663 of 3092
I dislike patent shoes. I do not think they make a DJ or any other style of clothes look better. I much prefer a pair of well polished black calf shoes with black tie.
post #1664 of 3092
Fair enough.
post #1665 of 3092
Quote:
Originally Posted by WICaniac View Post

Sorry to disagree, but cap-toes are inappropriate for eveningwear, and burgundy cap-toes are far more versitle. If you're recommending a single pair for multiple uses, they should be plain-toe oxfords in black. The problem with this, however, is that as you add shoes this pair will eventually fall into disuse. I'd bite the bullet and buy patent oxfords (bluchers will suffice).
I'll set aside for now the eminent suitability of black cap-toes for weddings, interviews, and funerals. It may be a shortcoming of my intellect, but—regardless of claims made by Allen Edmonds and countless tuxedo rental companies—I cannot wrap my brain around how black patent bluchers might somehow be more formal than shined and bulled black calf cap-toe balmorals.
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