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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 92

post #1366 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarC View Post

With the old-timeyness of the lapels and styling I thought a white linen square was too stodgy, and white silk clashed with the blue flannel.  I went for a periwinkle silk, but wasn't sure how I felt about it.  The color looks much better in person and is growing on me, but not sold on it yet.  Thoughts?

Looks great!
post #1367 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarC View Post

 Any of you have any experience with pre-owned or vintage garments / accessories?

 

 

 

A bit.  Here's my vintage Kremintz black MOP formal set on a vintage Marshall Fields waistcoat I found at an antique store.

 

 

 

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b

 

I thought the waistcoat (which is mint) was a steal at $36, but it's cut for the high-waisted trousers that prevailed before WWII and is too short to cover the waist of my trousers.  I had to custom order a waistcoat from Favourbrook to use the studs.  I'm happy with the result (if not the only photo I have):

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CesarC View Post

So here is what I'm asking: In the event that black grosgrain lapels cannot be matched exactly or near-exactly, should one go for a satin bow or a different scale of grosgrain?

 

 

It may be hard to discern in the photo above, but the jacket is a SB PL with grosgrain facings.  As I was determined to wear a waistcoat and unwilling to dump $450 on the RL PL model in grosgrain (the only one I have been able to find in that material), I reconciled myself to the idea of wearing a tie and waistcoat that did not match the lapel facings.  It's (still) hard to tell in the photo, but the tie and waistcoat are of a fine-ribbed black moire silk that is deeper/darker/"blacker" than the tux or its facings.  I think the only rule is that the tie must match the waist covering, but I think any patterned silk is preferable to satin if you're wearing grosgrain lapels.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba View Post

The gatsby tux is really fantastic, but I dont like the vest or bowtie they pair with it.

 

I'm not crazy about this particular pattern, either, but it's a welcome option at $175.   There are exceedingly few options for traditionally-styled black waistcoats, and I ultimately spent over $300 on the one pictured above.  The entire Gatsby line from BB is incredible, although little of it is as reasonably priced as this.

post #1368 of 2696


Dior Homme party Beijing.

1970s Brioni, Budd shirt, Cartier studs.
Edited by LabelKing - 4/25/13 at 1:08pm
post #1369 of 2696
Is the Budd silk or cotton?
post #1370 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Is the Budd silk or cotton?

Cotton voile with a hand embroidered front.
post #1371 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by LabelKing View Post



Dior Homme party Beijing.

1970s Brioni, Budd shirt, Cartier studs.

Very sharp.  The fact that nearly everyone in the background (excluding the balcony) is looking at the camera lends the whole shot a surreal aesthetic, as well.

post #1372 of 2696
Acres of champagne.
post #1373 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by WICaniac View Post

Very sharp.  The fact that nearly everyone in the background (excluding the balcony) is looking at the camera lends the whole shot a surreal aesthetic, as well.

Somebody find that Phat Guido pic at Shanghai Pudong airport.

post #1374 of 2696
Is this truely how far we have fallen?
post #1375 of 2696
Thread Starter 
Holy crap--how did I miss the return of LabelKing?
post #1376 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Is this truely how far we have fallen?

Sadly, yes.
post #1377 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnvw View Post

Good on you for your exercise of sartorial discipline and your choice to associate with like-minded friends! All the best for the wedding--and beyond!

As well as on encouraging (rather than discouraging) the groomsmen to procure their own tuxes (as in buy one that suits them but is within your prescribed dress code)!
post #1378 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Sadly, yes.
This is why I don't trust official brand "style guides" any more than their salepeople on the floor. If you stock a skinny notch-lapel flap-pocket tuxedo jacket you're going to try to sell it to me for my wedding. Sugarbutch, your sig is more relevant than ever.
post #1379 of 2696
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Sadly, yes.

How unfortunate that Mr. Porter didn't have dinner jackets in the model's size (or length). Sigh.
post #1380 of 2696
The gala dinner for the Dutch coronation:

http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/articles/462840/20130430/queen-beatrix-abdication-netherlands-prince-charles-photos.htm

I like Prince Felipe of Spain dinner ensemble best but for the vest not being low enough. Also Prince Daniel of Sweden use to get his bespoke garments in Naples, but not sure this is.
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