The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 84

That's interesting. I was under the impression that black tie was meant to be a less formal set-up, in comparison with white-tie, and hence, wing collars were generally shunned when people moved away from white tie to black. But you might well be right on the historical evolution. It's certainly more commonly seen at white-tie events these days, even amongst those who do bother, than at black-tie ceremonies, I believe.

Did you get grosgrain or silk on your DB? I'm still undecided on what's the proper form -- if there's one -- for a DB with a shawl. From the first picture, it seems like it's satin/silk.

Seriously - try the different facing options out on top of the cloth you select. I am not sure there is a rule and there are so many options, that you should just trust your eye. My DJ is all wool, not Mohair, so it won't really help you, but I chose a midnight blue silk that was woven in a wavy pattern; it is a lot like a standard grosgrain, but not exactly and you would have to look pretty closely to tell the difference.

I don't know if it's historically traditional or whomever popularised it, but I think, IMHO, that wearing a black bow tie with a wing collar just looks plain dumb and I would never do it. The black band visibly running around the neck looks like a bad combination of "ring-around-the-collar" and wearing ones trousers so low that the underwear's waist band is on display. Plus, it gets even worse when the wearer's bowtie is an adjustable and hence has a shiny metal ring on the band. Just ick. Maybe it's just me, but, um, ick. YMMV.

And you wear a satin or grosgrain butterfly bow-tie?

Checked out the Smiths formals book today. There are a few nice fabrics. But I'm a bit hesitant. The 8/9 oz mohair-wool stuff (SW8802) looks good but I'm a bit apprehensive at making something up in that weight.

Not sure how it'll hold up, or make up!

Too light?

Haven't ventured to make up something this light. You think 8/9 oz is okay?

Well, you forget that if the whole getup fits properly the back of the collar will not be visible above the jacket. I have, however, seen a solution; the tunnel collar. The problem is that one must have a tie which will separate into two pieces in order to thread them through.

+1. The wing collar also looks pretty dumb with the bow tie untied. Not an issue during the event itself, but if you're at the bar at 3:00AM after a black tie event it will start to become one. Not the main reason I prefer turndown collars but it definitely helps.

^ That's an, um, interesting vest.

The guy on the right is boss. His son, WIlliam Skinner, on the left, may be one of the hosts of the event, which would explain the velvet jacket and jolly vest. The father was the head of the organization for some time.

Would it show when the smoking jacket is closed?

Dunno. Hard to tell when the jacket's open.