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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 83

post #1231 of 1411
2/7/13 at 10:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTM View Post

Gentlemen, whats your take on button-up shirts with black-tie? Sometimes or never? How about barrel cuffs?

Currently unsure of sources, but aren't some advocating stiff-fronts only for white-tie?

I wear a shirt with a fly front, meaning the buttons are covered. It takes cufflinks, but not studs, and the front is smooth with no pleats and nothing but the fly front placket covering the buttons. I would urge you not wear barrel cuffs - links are really required - and to avoid showing regular buttons (either studs or hidden buttons).
Stiff fronts are not only for white tie, but make black-tie even more formal. And would probably look silly with a DB tux, though I won't swear to it. If you are using a single button peak lapel DJ, stiff front with a detachable wing collar can look great.
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post #1232 of 1411
2/7/13 at 12:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil10 View Post

FWIW, my PRL DB 6x2 from a couple of years ago with grosgrain facing has covered buttons.

My Oxxford DB (6 x 2) does not have covered buttons. Af first, I was a bit put off by that, as my prior dinner jackets all had covered buttons, but I've learned to live with it . . . .
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post #1233 of 1411
2/7/13 at 12:29pm
I replaced the buttons on my dinner jacket with satin-covered ones purchased on eBay. Minimal expense, probably €10 in all. You could do the same.
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post #1234 of 1411
2/7/13 at 12:31pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I wear a shirt with a fly front, meaning the buttons are covered. It takes cufflinks, but not studs, and the front is smooth with no pleats and nothing but the fly front placket covering the buttons. I would urge you not wear barrel cuffs - links are really required - and to avoid showing regular buttons (either studs or hidden buttons).
Stiff fronts are not only for white tie, but make black-tie even more formal. And would probably look silly with a DB tux, though I won't swear to it. If you are using a single button peak lapel DJ, stiff front with a detachable wing collar can look great.

What counts as a stiff front? I wear a bib-front shirt that takes studs with my DB.
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post #1235 of 1411
2/7/13 at 12:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

What counts as a stiff front? I wear a bib-front shirt that takes studs with my DB.
That. Don't you find the bib to be bulky under the crossover? Do you get it heavily starched? It would seem like a lot of stuff going on, but if you don't think so, then that it is fine with me. But for that reason I switched to a plain, fly front shirt shortly after I switched to a DB DJ.
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post #1236 of 1411
2/7/13 at 12:36pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

That. Don't you find the bib to be bulky under the crossover? Do you get it heavily starched? It would seem like a lot of stuff going on, but if you don't think so, then that it is fine with me. But for that reason I switched to a plain, fly front shirt shortly after I switched to a DB DJ.

No starch. Not bulky at all, not even with the cummerbund.

I like the pique because it stays nice and smooth. Regular white shirting gets wrinkled up and ripples near the buttons.
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post #1237 of 1411
2/7/13 at 1:00pm
Dopey, I gather you would suggest french cuffs and a fly front for a db shawl collar?
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post #1238 of 1411
2/7/13 at 1:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post

I replaced the buttons on my dinner jacket with satin-covered ones purchased on eBay. Minimal expense, probably €10 in all. You could do the same.

I could do this, but Oxxford uses such beautiful buttons, and I've really come to like how they look.
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post #1239 of 1411
2/8/13 at 5:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

No starch. Not bulky at all, not even with the cummerbund.

I like the pique because it stays nice and smooth. Regular white shirting gets wrinkled up and ripples near the buttons.

I thought they were specifically referring to using such a shirt with a DB DJ, in which case no cummerbund. With a SB DJ I much prefer the bib front shirt to pleats or smooth (unless I could find a shirt that was all a textured fabric, like Marcela).
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post #1240 of 1411
2/8/13 at 5:35am
And that is truly far and away the most important thing. Rock on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 518aata View Post

I could do this, but Oxxford uses such beautiful buttons, and I've really come to like how they look.
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post #1241 of 1411
2/8/13 at 6:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I wear a shirt with a fly front, meaning the buttons are covered. It takes cufflinks, but not studs, and the front is smooth with no pleats and nothing but the fly front placket covering the buttons. I would urge you not wear barrel cuffs - links are really required - and to avoid showing regular buttons (either studs or hidden buttons).
Stiff fronts are not only for white tie, but make black-tie even more formal. And would probably look silly with a DB tux, though I won't swear to it. If you are using a single button peak lapel DJ, stiff front with a detachable wing collar can look great.

What he said.
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post #1242 of 1411
2/8/13 at 6:47am
Do a google image search for Jim Parsons Golden Globes. Damn, Sheldon has some sweet Black Tie looks.
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post #1243 of 1411
2/12/13 at 2:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I wear a shirt with a fly front, meaning the buttons are covered. It takes cufflinks, but not studs, and the front is smooth with no pleats and nothing but the fly front placket covering the buttons. I would urge you not wear barrel cuffs - links are really required - and to avoid showing regular buttons (either studs or hidden buttons).
Stiff fronts are not only for white tie, but make black-tie even more formal. And would probably look silly with a DB tux, though I won't swear to it. If you are using a single button peak lapel DJ, stiff front with a detachable wing collar can look great.

Wing collars have traditionally been reserved for white-tie here in England.

Do you guys wear opera pumps? -- I know this has been done to death. Or is it the OneShoe polished to a shine.
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post #1244 of 1411
2/12/13 at 2:53pm
Opinions, gentlemen?


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post #1245 of 1411
2/12/13 at 2:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Wing collars have traditionally been reserved for white-tie here in England.
This hasn't always been true (I believe it followed over time from the PoW's popularization of the soft attached collar with a DJ) and is still more of a trending practice than a rule (certainly in the U.S.).
Quote:
Do you guys wear opera pumps? -- I know this has been done to death. Or is it the OneShoe polished to a shine.
I often do, but not always. Pretty much depends on how much walking I expect to do getting around and how long I expect to be out. Opera pumps are thin soled and perfectly comfortable for parties but less so for spending hours in.
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