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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 83

post #1231 of 2710
I replaced the buttons on my dinner jacket with satin-covered ones purchased on eBay. Minimal expense, probably €10 in all. You could do the same.
post #1232 of 2710
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I wear a shirt with a fly front, meaning the buttons are covered. It takes cufflinks, but not studs, and the front is smooth with no pleats and nothing but the fly front placket covering the buttons. I would urge you not wear barrel cuffs - links are really required - and to avoid showing regular buttons (either studs or hidden buttons).
Stiff fronts are not only for white tie, but make black-tie even more formal. And would probably look silly with a DB tux, though I won't swear to it. If you are using a single button peak lapel DJ, stiff front with a detachable wing collar can look great.

What counts as a stiff front? I wear a bib-front shirt that takes studs with my DB.
post #1233 of 2710
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

What counts as a stiff front? I wear a bib-front shirt that takes studs with my DB.
That. Don't you find the bib to be bulky under the crossover? Do you get it heavily starched? It would seem like a lot of stuff going on, but if you don't think so, then that it is fine with me. But for that reason I switched to a plain, fly front shirt shortly after I switched to a DB DJ.
post #1234 of 2710
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

That. Don't you find the bib to be bulky under the crossover? Do you get it heavily starched? It would seem like a lot of stuff going on, but if you don't think so, then that it is fine with me. But for that reason I switched to a plain, fly front shirt shortly after I switched to a DB DJ.

No starch. Not bulky at all, not even with the cummerbund.

I like the pique because it stays nice and smooth. Regular white shirting gets wrinkled up and ripples near the buttons.
post #1235 of 2710
Dopey, I gather you would suggest french cuffs and a fly front for a db shawl collar?
post #1236 of 2710
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post

I replaced the buttons on my dinner jacket with satin-covered ones purchased on eBay. Minimal expense, probably €10 in all. You could do the same.

I could do this, but Oxxford uses such beautiful buttons, and I've really come to like how they look.
post #1237 of 2710
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

No starch. Not bulky at all, not even with the cummerbund.

I like the pique because it stays nice and smooth. Regular white shirting gets wrinkled up and ripples near the buttons.

I thought they were specifically referring to using such a shirt with a DB DJ, in which case no cummerbund. With a SB DJ I much prefer the bib front shirt to pleats or smooth (unless I could find a shirt that was all a textured fabric, like Marcela).
post #1238 of 2710
And that is truly far and away the most important thing. Rock on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 518aata View Post

I could do this, but Oxxford uses such beautiful buttons, and I've really come to like how they look.
post #1239 of 2710
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I wear a shirt with a fly front, meaning the buttons are covered. It takes cufflinks, but not studs, and the front is smooth with no pleats and nothing but the fly front placket covering the buttons. I would urge you not wear barrel cuffs - links are really required - and to avoid showing regular buttons (either studs or hidden buttons).
Stiff fronts are not only for white tie, but make black-tie even more formal. And would probably look silly with a DB tux, though I won't swear to it. If you are using a single button peak lapel DJ, stiff front with a detachable wing collar can look great.

What he said.
post #1240 of 2710
Do a google image search for Jim Parsons Golden Globes. Damn, Sheldon has some sweet Black Tie looks.
post #1241 of 2710
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I wear a shirt with a fly front, meaning the buttons are covered. It takes cufflinks, but not studs, and the front is smooth with no pleats and nothing but the fly front placket covering the buttons. I would urge you not wear barrel cuffs - links are really required - and to avoid showing regular buttons (either studs or hidden buttons).
Stiff fronts are not only for white tie, but make black-tie even more formal. And would probably look silly with a DB tux, though I won't swear to it. If you are using a single button peak lapel DJ, stiff front with a detachable wing collar can look great.

Wing collars have traditionally been reserved for white-tie here in England.

Do you guys wear opera pumps? -- I know this has been done to death. Or is it the OneShoe polished to a shine.
post #1242 of 2710
Opinions, gentlemen?


post #1243 of 2710
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Wing collars have traditionally been reserved for white-tie here in England.
This hasn't always been true (I believe it followed over time from the PoW's popularization of the soft attached collar with a DJ) and is still more of a trending practice than a rule (certainly in the U.S.).
Quote:
Do you guys wear opera pumps? -- I know this has been done to death. Or is it the OneShoe polished to a shine.
I often do, but not always. Pretty much depends on how much walking I expect to do getting around and how long I expect to be out. Opera pumps are thin soled and perfectly comfortable for parties but less so for spending hours in.
post #1244 of 2710
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

This hasn't always been true (I believe it followed over time from the PoW's popularization of the soft attached collar with a DJ) and is still more of a trending practice than a rule (certainly in the U.S.).

That's interesting. I was under the impression that black tie was meant to be a less formal set-up, in comparison with white-tie, and hence, wing collars were generally shunned when people moved away from white tie to black. But you might well be right on the historical evolution. It's certainly more commonly seen at white-tie events these days, even amongst those who do bother, than at black-tie ceremonies, I believe.

Did you get grosgrain or silk on your DB? I'm still undecided on what's the proper form -- if there's one -- for a DB with a shawl. From the first picture, it seems like it's satin/silk.
post #1245 of 2710
Seriously - try the different facing options out on top of the cloth you select. I am not sure there is a rule and there are so many options, that you should just trust your eye. My DJ is all wool, not Mohair, so it won't really help you, but I chose a midnight blue silk that was woven in a wavy pattern; it is a lot like a standard grosgrain, but not exactly and you would have to look pretty closely to tell the difference.
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