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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 78

post #1156 of 3406
If you look at old pics, the vast majority of the time, with white tie, you will see only one stud. With black 2 or 3. That is an old tradition and it works when fronts are stiff. It does not work so well when they are soft because you will get a lot of gaping.

But, yes, it is not done OTR anywhere that I know of (maybe Budd?)
post #1157 of 3406
OK I've spent 15 minutes on this but maybe you guys can help me out. Sorry to interrupt, but does anybody have a link to vox's pic of his tartan jacket and dotted cummerbund? Or has he taken it down?
post #1158 of 3406
try his tumblr
post #1159 of 3406
I think the various google searches I did would have picked it up if it were...
post #1160 of 3406
post #1161 of 3406
Win! ty icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #1162 of 3406
Damn, that is some next-level shit there...
post #1163 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

If you look at old pics, the vast majority of the time, with white tie, you will see only one stud. With black 2 or 3. That is an old tradition and it works when fronts are stiff. It does not work so well when they are soft because you will get a lot of gaping.

But, yes, it is not done OTR anywhere that I know of (maybe Budd?)

Coincidentally, the first formal shirt I bought was OTR with 3 stud buttons and detachable collar. I don't remember who made it but I got it in the UK as part of a ballroom dance ensemble. Too bad I just donated it away.
post #1164 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Think about that statement for a while. It isn't 100% crazy but it does point to something.

Not sure what you're driving at there, care to enlighten me?
post #1165 of 3406

If it is good enough for an emperor, it is good enough for me.

 

Self faced lapels on dinner jacket or black tie with lounge suit? What say you?

 

 

 

post #1166 of 3406
I don't think those are self faced, but even so, with the 4x1 cut and besom pockets that is meant to be black-tie and is. He looks great.
post #1167 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I don't think those are self faced, but even so, with the 4x1 cut and besom pockets that is meant to be black-tie and is. He looks great.

I agree he looks great.

 

But the buttons are clearly not covered in fabric, which is de rigueur for formal wear.

 

4x1 cut and besom pockets are more than common with lounge suits and not a feature exclusive to formal wear

 

DB jackets certainly had their genesis in casual wear and not formal wear since they allow one to dispense with the waistcoat for lounge suits and formal wear, and the cummerbund for formal wear.

 

Can you see anything else that would indicate an intention to wear this exclusively as formal wear? I see only one thing, but it is not obvious on the jacket which could easily be paired as constructed with white flannel or twill trousers and an open collared shirt for lounging around poolside bar.

post #1168 of 3406
Buttons needn't be covered for formal wear (and 4x1 really isn't common on lounge suits - it is quite rare, in fact).
Suitcoat aside, the trousers have a covered seam, so this ensemble is definitely meant to be black tie.

Also, the original history of DB is irrelevant as they were well in the lounge suit cannon when the tuxedo was invented.
post #1169 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

If you look at old pics, the vast majority of the time, with white tie, you will see only one stud. With black 2 or 3. That is an old tradition and it works when fronts are stiff. It does not work so well when they are soft because you will get a lot of gaping.

But, yes, it is not done OTR anywhere that I know of (maybe Budd?)

 

I sell a slim fit, marcella front tuxedo shirt with three stud holes. $145

post #1170 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Buttons needn't be covered for formal wear (and 4x1 really isn't common on lounge suits - it is quite rare, in fact).
Suitcoat aside, the trousers have a covered seam, so this ensemble is definitely meant to be black tie.

Also, the original history of DB is irrelevant as they were well in the lounge suit cannon when the tuxedo was invented.

 

Yes, the trousers have braid, which marks them as being formal wear, but you are wrong about the jacket; in my experience, buttons are always covered with fabric on formal wear jackets,

 

I have never seen any other display of buttons on formal wear except maybe no buttons on a link front smoking jacket with turnback silk faced cuffs.

 

Of course your experience, may be different than mine. So, when and where have you seen a tux, dinner jacket, or formal tailcoat with buttons of horn, metal, or other that were not covered with silk or other fabric, especially one with self faced lapels?

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