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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

cedarlake23

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There's no hard rule against covered placket, though I personally prefer seeing the studs. Best practice for the tie and cumberbund is to match the fabric of your lapels. Sizing is more a matter of preference though too small or large could look less than idea. You'll have to experiment a bit to find what you like.

A covered placket is okay and certainly better than a shirt with buttons. Tie and cummerbund should match the lapels of your jacket. Budd, in London, has good cummerbunds and ties. For something a littler more elevated, try Sam Homer, LaBowtique, or Le Noeud Papillon. If you haven't worn a bow tie before don't be intimidated. Tying a bow tie is easy and just takes a bit of practice. Under no circumstances is a pre-tied tie acceptable.

Thanks so much for the advice! I don't recall when I last wore a bow tie, so I'll definitely practice. Regarding sizing, I know for regular ties that the lapel and tie width should roughly match. Is there a general guide like that for bow ties? Or another way to tell if it's too large or too small?
 

hpreston

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Thanks so much for the advice! I don't recall when I last wore a bow tie, so I'll definitely practice. Regarding sizing, I know for regular ties that the lapel and tie width should roughly match. Is there a general guide like that for bow ties? Or another way to tell if it's too large or too small?

Generally, the ends of the bow should line up with the width of your face. No wider that your ears, and no narrower than the outer points of your eyes.
 

Old Red

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When @cedarlake23 asked about width I was thinking width of the tie itself. They seem to be uniformly (or ubiquitously) the same, about an inch and a quarter? I found extremes.

PrinceRanier:GK.jpeg


Prince Ranier with a thin bowtie. When was this a thing? I like it.

CG DM Notched.jpg


The fella behind Cary Grant* wearing a wide bowtie. I think I've seen more like this. And when I say 'I've seen' I mean in the media. I have never been to a black tie event nor do I own a rig. I'm a little sad about that.

*Note that CG and Dean are wearing notched lapel jackets.
 

upr_crust

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When @cedarlake23 asked about width I was thinking width of the tie itself. They seem to be uniformly (or ubiquitously) the same, about an inch and a quarter? I found extremes.

View attachment 2172039

Prince Ranier with a thin bowtie. When was this a thing? I like it.

View attachment 2172041

The fella behind Cary Grant* wearing a wide bowtie. I think I've seen more like this. And when I say 'I've seen' I mean in the media. I have never been to a black tie event nor do I own a rig. I'm a little sad about that.

*Note that CG and Dean are wearing notched lapel jackets.

Very thin bow ties, such as Prince Rainier is shown in the photo, were in style in the early to mid '60s, judging from the hairdo and appearance of Princess Grace. As for the very wide bow tie on the gentleman on the left, behind Cary Grant, I believe that you can get ties in the same same from Seigo on Madison Avenue and 89th/90th Street.
 

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