Here's the deal: I have skinny legs (knock kneed at that), a narrow waist that moves quickly into a bit of a belly, not much of a chest, pretty broad shoulders, long arms and an oblong shaped head. (6'2 230 / 42 or 44L ) Inevitably, structured coat shoulders make my head look even thinner (sort of a la Phil Jackson) and my torso even bigger relative to my waist and legs. And I"ve had trouble getting suit trousers that "grip" comfortably at the right part of my waist...they inevitably slide down or get creases for being cinched up too tight. And for as awkward looking as I've made myself sound, I don't have a hard time finding slacks and a dress shirt that -- without a coat -- look decent. It's frustrating to look worse as I dress up.
What should I be looking for to de-emphasize these body dynamics? Do shoulders in dress suits come in are varying degrees of "structured"? Is my shirt collar an important factor? And is there is some particular reason I have a hard time find suit trousers that sit comfortably on the waist?
Incidentally, I generally get a 44L and get the pants and coat taken in. Could my main problem be that I need to start with a 43L, particularly given my challenge with finding a good tailor (in Phoenix)?
Comments are much appreciated!