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TROUSER ALTERATIONS

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
TO ALTER TROUSERS SMALLER

the solid lines show the fore and back parts of the trousers.

the dotted lines show the stitching lines that will remove the excess fabric.

ok then by the numbers.

1. the most common alteration is takeing in the waist.
notice that the seam tapers off short so as not to reduce the seat area.

2. this takes in the seat as well as the waist both with one seam line.
the price has gone up alittle.

3. this takes in the thigh as well as the crotch [the fork].
this is a separate operation from #2 waist and seat.
this separate alt adds to the price.

these are usual alterations,now comes the recuts.


4. this takes in the side seam on the back part only.
doing items 2 3 and 4 is what some will call a recut and quote a low price.
it is often done at a retail store.but the front has not been changed. and back
is too small in relation to the front the side pockets have been pulled toward the
back.you will have less room to sit down.
and the price goes up.

5. doing items 2 3 4 and 5 is a little better bacause an equal amount is taken off
the front and back sideseams. but the price of the alteration has gone
up agood deal. thats because the side pockets must be removed and then replaced
after cutting.

up to this point doing number 4 or 5 requires removing the waistband with the
lining and belt loops as far as the center of the forepart. later to be replaced.

6. this gives a fully balanced recut.in this the waistband is compleatly removed.
this now includes 2 3 4 5 6. here the entire fly assembly must be removed as well as
later replaced after recutting. front and back parts have the proper proportions in
relation to each other.
now you get the actual price of a true recut.

at this point the trouser front can be dressed since the fly has been removed.
there should not be a charge for the dressing, because the front is being cut
anyway. the ilustrations show the alterations stoping at the knees. but if the customer
wishes the legs to be tapered at the same time it can be done.

img017.jpg
post #2 of 14
Thank you for this.

I want to have a better technical understanding of the tailors art but find many of the articles on Cutter and Tailor overwhelming
post #3 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coburn View Post

Thank you for this.

I want to have a better technical understanding of the tailors art but find many of the articles on Cutter and Tailor overwhelming

+1. Very interesting. Thanks.
post #4 of 14
Thread Starter 
cutter and tailor is for pros, diy ers, and apprentices.
post #5 of 14
Is it possible to resize a pair of pants completely. ie: from a size 36 to a size 32 by taking in each seem? My guess is it's likely more expensive than a new pair of pants, but curious if it can be done.
post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by filterq View Post

Is it possible to resize a pair of pants completely. ie: from a size 36 to a size 32 by taking in each seem? My guess is it's likely more expensive than a new pair of pants, but curious if it can be done.

yes it can. but if it is practical [read $] is the question.
remember that the trouser back at the seat level is larger than the front at that level.
that is so that you can walk and sit down. if all is taken in the back walking and
sitting can be painful. also the side pockets move to the back.
That is why taking in a large amount at the back only does not work.
post #7 of 14

A friend of mine is, how should I say this, "buttless".  As is his dad.

 

The waist on most of his trousers is ok but the butt is not.  A tailor, so he should do alterations 2 and 3?
 

Maybe more of #2 and less of #3?  and how to measure properly?

 

Thanks in advance for the reply...

post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by silkman View Post

A friend of mine is, how should I say this, "buttless".  As is his dad.

The waist on most of his trousers is ok but the butt is not.  A tailor, so he should do alterations 2 and 3?

 
Maybe more of #2 and less of #3?  and how to measure properly?

Thanks in advance for the reply...

the alt for this is 2&3 ..
butt, the better way is to pick out a smaller size that fits around the hips.
then have ther waist let out.
check the outlet cloth at the waist level to see if there is enough cloth.
measure the amount of cloth there and subtract one half inch.
the rest is the amount of gain at the waist.


sorry for the butt thing, couldn't resist it.
post #9 of 14

lol its not my butt so...

 

Butt your idea is great - to get a smaller size trousers and open up the back

 

Thanks for the reply :)
 

post #10 of 14

I bought this trousers and I like the fullness of the leg. But I would like to make the seat a bit more cleaner. If I teel the tailor to take in a bit of the seat seam, would that comesout nicely?

 

Any feedback would be appreciated. 

 

 

 

 

post #11 of 14
I am no tailoring expert but is that linen?
I think the crease in the back is going up almost to your belt which might throw it off a bit.
Perhaps eliminate that and see how it is. Maybe you will feel the same way still.
Looks like a bit extra material basically where the bottom of your butt meeting the leg.
One of the expert tailors would know much better if the seat seam is the key.
Don't fret too much, looking good in that outfit as is.
post #12 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit50 View Post

I am no tailoring expert but is that linen?
I think the crease in the back is going up almost to your belt which might throw it off a bit.
Perhaps eliminate that and see how it is. Maybe you will feel the same way still.
Looks like a bit extra material basically where the bottom of your butt meeting the leg.
One of the expert tailors would know much better if the seat seam is the key.
Don't fret too much, looking good in that outfit as is.

 

Thanks! So the waist band should be reduced a touch? 

post #13 of 14
I was probably not clear so inserting a horrible pic. The photoshop pro skills do not come out with the tools at my disposal.



Red line is about the bottom of your butt/rear/bum/whatever.

The green is the crease that extends to high. Crease should fade out towards top of leg only.
I would eliminate that first to see if the material falls a bit differently. Nothing to do with waistband at this point.

But for now, the blue triangle highlighted is about the same puffy triangle that appears in the 3rd pic in your post(mine is from 2nd).
You see that puff in third pic? I think you could have that shaped better to your bum and leg. I guess some excess
fabric is there and would be done through seat seam but the expert tailors would know exactly.

Hope that was more clear and possibly helpful. Or at least not harmful.

Size question, do your pant cuffs touch your shoes in front or are floating above?
post #14 of 14
Thanks gambit that was better. That was what I was thinking, disappear that triangle by taken in the seat seam.

The cuffs are a bit slanted. To they touch the front part of the shoe and the back. The leg opening is just below 9".
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