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Cummerbund Fabric

post #1 of 20
11/11/11 at 8:06am
Thread Starter 
I recently had a dinner jacket and trousers made in midnight blue Loro Piana fabric. Unfortunately, since I was in a hurry, I did not have time to have a cummerbund or a bowtie made.

Anyway, I pinged the tailor to make me a cummerbund and a bowtie in the same fabric, but he replied back stating that I should make it "...in satin silk rather than the suit fabric as that is the norm".

However, I do not have gross grain lapels -- only plain ones. I almost feel that the cummerbund must match the lapel fabric (since my lapels are plain, my cummerbund also ought to be so).

Thoughts? Would a satin cummerbund look out of place, or is there something I can do that would be adventurous yet conservative?
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post #2 of 20
11/11/11 at 8:15am
Wait, I'm confused. What are the facings on your dinner jacket? Satin or grosgrain?

At any rate, your cummerbund and bowtie should be made of one or the other--certainly not the suiting fabric. If your dinner jacket facings are black, the cummerbund and bowtie should also be black. If the facings are midnight blue, I'd still suggest a black cummerbund and bowtie, but I've known other credible sources to suggest they match the facings.

Personally, if I had satin facings, I'd pick grosgrain for the cummerbund and bowtie, and vice-versa. I prefer the contrast. However, you can't go wrong matching the weaves either.
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post #3 of 20
11/11/11 at 8:49am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Wait, I'm confused. What are the facings on your dinner jacket? Satin or grosgrain?
At any rate, your cummerbund and bowtie should be made of one or the other--certainly not the suiting fabric. If your dinner jacket facings are black, the cummerbund and bowtie should also be black. If the facings are midnight blue, I'd still suggest a black cummerbund and bowtie, but I've known other credible sources to suggest they match the facings.
Personally, if I had satin facings, I'd pick grosgrain for the cummerbund and bowtie, and vice-versa. I prefer the contrast. However, you can't go wrong matching the weaves either.

Well, I went with something unconventional, hence the confusion. I decided not to have satin or grosgrain, and just go with plain midnight blue facings (I figured the midnight blue in itself was unsubtle enough, so I wanted to tone down on other aspects). The midnight blue used is slightly darker than what is used for the dinner jacket itself (so, not black, but darker still).

So, would you recommend that I get a bowtie and cummerbund made in the same material?
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post #4 of 20
11/11/11 at 8:57am
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Edited by F. Corbera - 11/12/11 at 4:25am
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post #5 of 20
11/11/11 at 9:17am
Thread Starter 
You're correct. The unfortunate part is that I asked for this, despite my tailor's protests. :-)

The facings are a different fabric (slightly darker midnight blue) with peak lapels, and was originally tailored as a dinner jacket. So, given this, would you still recommend that I relegate it to suit status?
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post #6 of 20
11/11/11 at 9:18am
Hmm . . . is it too late to have facings put on? That's what I would do. Midnight blue does not standout in situations where you'd actually wear black tie, but an un-faced dinner jacket is just a regular jacket.
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post #7 of 20
11/11/11 at 9:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metlin View Post

You're correct. The unfortunate part is that I asked for this, despite my tailor's protests. :-)
The facings are a different fabric (slightly darker midnight blue) with peak lapels, and was originally tailored as a dinner jacket. So, given this, would you still recommend that I relegate it to suit status?

So, it is faced, just not with silk . . .

I'd wear a black bowtie and cummerbund in any event. Don't match them to the facings.
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post #8 of 20
11/11/11 at 10:03am
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Edited by F. Corbera - 11/12/11 at 4:25am
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post #9 of 20
11/11/11 at 2:01pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks, guys. Those are great options.

So, I checked with the tailor and he has the same LP fabric available. For now, I've decided to go with the vest and bowtie option in the same fabric as the darker facing -- would that work? I considered going with black, but I'm afraid black against midnight blue would "pop" (or worse, poorly put together). Bill, is that the only style of semi-formal vest, or are there others that you'd recommend?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Hmm . . . is it too late to have facings put on? That's what I would do. Midnight blue does not standout in situations where you'd actually wear black tie, but an un-faced dinner jacket is just a regular jacket.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

So, it is faced, just not with silk . . .
I'd wear a black bowtie and cummerbund in any event. Don't match them to the facings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

That's probably the least expensive way out. Go with grosgrain, something as matte as you can find.
If you could get your hands on that same LP fabric, then you could consider gettting a semi-formal vest made in the same material, like so this one from Brooks...
bb_black_tie_vest.jpg
The other way that you could look at it is to think of your dinner suit as an informal/at home style type of thing. In that case, you can do pretty much anything for the bow and the waist covering in terms of fabric...just don't match them. You have to know what you're doing to pull this off at a public event.
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post #10 of 20
11/11/11 at 2:18pm
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Edited by F. Corbera - 11/12/11 at 4:25am
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post #11 of 20
11/11/11 at 2:55pm
Thread Starter 
I think I prefer the DB -- would it be considered acceptable to go with a DB vest and an SB DJ?

And I remember whnay's version -- is that the one where Lady Spencer looked like Snow White?
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post #12 of 20
11/11/11 at 3:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metlin View Post

You're correct. The unfortunate part is that I asked for this, despite my tailor's protests. :-)
The facings are a different fabric (slightly darker midnight blue) with peak lapels, and was originally tailored as a dinner jacket. So, given this, would you still recommend that I relegate it to suit status?


You're correct.  That is rather unfortunate.

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post #13 of 20
11/11/11 at 4:16pm
Despite the fabric used for your suit or its facings, the bowtie and cummerbund really should be black. it will not "pop" in a bad way. I wear a black bowtie with my with midnight blue dinner jacket myself.
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post #14 of 20
11/11/11 at 4:31pm
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Edited by F. Corbera - 11/12/11 at 4:25am
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post #15 of 20
11/11/11 at 5:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Shake View Post

You're correct.  That is rather unfortunate.

Such is life. You live and hopefully learn. Or at any rate, you live.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Despite the fabric used for your suit or its facings, the bowtie and cummerbund really should be black. it will not "pop" in a bad way. I wear a black bowtie with my with midnight blue dinner jacket myself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Yes.

Excellent. That makes my choices easier. Thank you, gentlemen.
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