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Things that all better cothing items should not be made without. - Page 4

post #46 of 60
11/9/11 at 12:19am
How does the v made it make it easier to alter pants
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post #47 of 60
11/9/11 at 3:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_del View Post

How does the v made it make it easier to alter pants

It doesn't. It looks better, and actually snakes alteration more difficult, because your tailor has to reproduce it...
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post #48 of 60
11/9/11 at 3:56am
257
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post #49 of 60
11/9/11 at 4:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by alliswell View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_del View Post

How does the v made it make it easier to alter pants

It doesn't. It looks better, and actually snakes alteration more difficult, because your tailor has to reproduce it...

A split waistband makes it easier to let the waist out at the center back, because there is extra waistband length folded back either side which can be used to extend the length of the band. This is not possible if the waistband is not split.
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post #50 of 60
11/9/11 at 6:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

The split V makes the pants much more comfortable in my opinion when twisting your body or bending over. Its ads room for some extra movement, while allowing the pants to not be loose in the waist.

OF course you know this from experience.

(to make myself clear...im calling you a bottom..a power bottom)
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post #51 of 60
11/9/11 at 7:07am
Thread Starter 
regarding the split v notch in the back of a pair of pants i have PM'ed member despos, an expert tailor who is often kind enough to share his knowledge with us, asking him to explain its purpose. hopefully he will.

i would like to add another item as well.

the small coin poket inside the side pants pockets. i find that using it (mostly for my cell phone), allows you to keep things in your pocket without them pulling down/appearing bulky on the leg of your pants.

as to the coin pocket on the front outside of the pants, usually immediately to the right of the zipper, i think its neat but i never use it. not a big deal to me.
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post #52 of 60
11/9/11 at 7:09am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by swiego View Post

Thank you for making this post. Regardless of whether people agree with you on the specifics, I've been frustrated by how this forum admonishes the purchase of poor quality items yet has no real sticky post on what specific attributes to look for when trying to ascertain quality. Most people merely shrug and point to the brand name and/or price tag as their benchmark of quality. I think it would be a great asset to this forum if the OP is kept updated, perhaps to include both consenting and dissenting opinions on the specifics, then made into a sticky.
We need a post that contains, for each garment type, the "must haves" to identify quality design or construction, the "nice to haves" attributes and the "under debate" attributes. Just my 2 cents.

interesting idea. i will try and update the op with new items other posters have mentioned and maybe remove/clarify some of the other items.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

OF course you know this from experience.
(to make myself clear...im calling you a bottom..a power bottom)

of course. smile.gif
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post #53 of 60
11/9/11 at 7:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Pants
- should always have the a split "V" waist back.

What, why? I have seen inexpensive RTW trousers that have this and expensive bespoke trousers that do not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Shirts
This is arguable in my opinion, but I'll add it because it's what I prefer
- should never have a chest pocket, it looks less classy in my opinion and I never put anything in them.

it has nothing to do with class and everything to do with the sort of shirt you are wearing. A sportier, more casual shirt looks nice with a pocket, such as an OCBD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Jackets
- should always have some sort of vent, side or center.
the following is also debateable, as some people aren't a fan and it does create tailoring issues.
- should always have functioning cuff buttons

Dinner jackets should not have vents.

Functioning cuff buttons have become the rule-of-thumb that GQ/Esquire readers use to tell if a suit is any good. In truth, their presence tells you nothing important.
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post #54 of 60
11/9/11 at 7:43am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

What, why? I have seen inexpensive RTW trousers that have this and expensive bespoke trousers that do not.

i think its ads extra comfort to the pants in regards to movement. but im waiting on despos to clear that up.
Quote:
Dinner jackets should not have vents.

agreed, and was pointed out earlier in the thread, i will amend the op for this and other items.
Quote:
Functioning cuff buttons have become the rule-of-thumb that GQ/Esquire readers use to tell if a suit is any good. In truth, their presence tells you nothing important.

it does not tell you anything important, and it does not mean a suit is any good. i think what i meant in the op maybe wasnt clear enough. i was not saying these items are the benchmark of better clothing. i was saying when purchasing better clothing items i think these are things that should always be there. for example, i have plenty of pants without the split v that are better than ones with it. when i put on the better pants i say to myself why would the company that charges so much for their goods and are expected to be considered a notch above leave out this item? same with sleeve buttons. when i buy a suit at a certain price point i wonder why would they not leave the cuffs unfininshed so i can have that option?

these are not quality issues, but extras. like when you buy a mercedes you expect to see wood and metal finishing not plastic.
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post #55 of 60
11/9/11 at 7:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

these are not quality issues, but extras. like when you buy a mercedes you expect to see wood and metal finishing not plastic.

I understand what you are getting at, but I am concerned that this sort of list distracts from developing a more substantive notion of quality. The things that make a bespoke suit better or worse are not things conveniently itemized.
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post #56 of 60
11/9/11 at 8:00am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I understand what you are getting at, but I am concerned that this sort of list distracts from developing a more substantive notion of quality. The things that make a bespoke suit better or worse are not things conveniently itemized.

i understand your concern, especially in connection to your latest thread. its not my intention for these items to distract from quality. if given the option to buy a better quality item without one or maybe any of these items or a lesser quality item with all the bonuses i certainly say buy the better quality item. rather it is a list of personal bonuses that i think one who is already able to discern what is and what isnt quality might like to have on their garments. i know i do.
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post #57 of 60
11/9/11 at 8:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

as to the coin pocket on the front outside of the pants, usually immediately to the right of the zipper, i think its neat but i never use it. not a big deal to me.

Well designed pockets are always a plus. Some of them, I don't get. Like the waistband pocket in Oxxford trousers. WTF am I supposed to do with that? First, I can't get past my belt, and even if I could it would look like I was putting my hand down my pants.

I do appreciate pen-specific pockets on the inside of a blazer/suit coat. Just a nice touch so that they don't rattle around.
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post #58 of 60
11/9/11 at 9:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by alliswell View Post

It doesn't. It looks better, and actually snakes alteration more difficult, because your tailor has to reproduce it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

A split waistband makes it easier to let the waist out at the center back, because there is extra waistband length folded back either side which can be used to extend the length of the band. This is not possible if the waistband is not split.

I agree. The waistband has to be split. It doesn't have to have a 'V' - that's purely aesthetic. Thanks for the clarification.
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post #59 of 60
11/9/11 at 3:13pm

An unfinished inseam seems particularly desirable in RTW trousers.

It's not a major thing, I suppose, but it's nice to know your leg length will be accommodated regardless of your waist size.

 

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post #60 of 60
11/16/11 at 4:12pm
Thread Starter 
shameless bump. despos pm'ed me back just the other night and said he agreed with my assessment of the purpose of the split "V" pants waist. smile.gif
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