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Things that all better cothing items should not be made without.

post #1 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:24am
Thread Starter 
When it comes to better (read more expensive), clothing there are certain things that I think should always be incorporated into the making of the garments. Considering what you are paying, or if you are a bargain shopper what they are asking you to pay, certain things I feel should not not be skimped on. Here is my short list for now, please feel free to agree, disagree and add to the list.

EDIT - To clarify, I do not mean these are items to be used as a benchmark to determine if a clothing item is any good. I simply mean that at certain price points these are things I personaly feel manufacturers of a certain stature should always include. Similar to when you buy certain types of luxury cars you expect the finishing to not be plastic.

Pants
- should always have the a split "V" waist back.
- should never have that metal tounge and hook closure, all buttons, all the time.
- should always have a small coin pocket inside at least one of the side pockets - addition
- should always have the little loop tab above the zipper to keep your belt inline - addition

Shirts
This is arguable in my opinion, but I'll add it because it's what I prefer
- should never have a chest pocket, it looks less classy in my opinion and I never put anything in them. EDIT - this is not meant to apply to more casual shirts or OCBDs
- should never have plastic buttons. MOP or horn. -addition

Jackets
- should always have some sort of vent, side or center. EDIT - this is not meant to apply to formal wear such as tuxedo jackets

the following is also debateable, as some people aren't a fan and it does create tailoring issues.
- should always have functioning cuff buttons

What say you fellow Sf'ers?
Edited by in stitches - 11/9/11 at 7:54am
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post #2 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

- should never have that metal tounge and hook closure, all buttons, all the time.

Can't agree with this part, there's nothing wrong with hook-and-eye closures and even my bespoke trousers have them.
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post #3 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

- should always have some sort of vent, side or center.
the following is also debateable, as some people aren't a fan and it does create tailoring issues.
- should always have functioning cuff buttons

Can't agree with either of these
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post #4 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Jackets
- should always have some sort of vent, side or center.

the following is also debateable, as some people aren't a fan and it does create tailoring issues.
- should always have functioning cuff buttons
What say you fellow Sf'ers?

The ventless jacket is generally seen as a more formal jacket. This is why traditional tuxedos are usually ventless. No vents also help those with a larger backside.

Surgeon's cuffs are traditionally the mark of a bespoke jacket. In recent years OTR offerings have featured surgeon's cuffs to make them appear more expensive or even to mimic bespoke detailing. However, OTR jackets with surgeon's cuffs are extremely hard and expensive to alter. For this reason I prefer my OTR jackets, especially those bought online, to have non-functioning cuffs. Worst case scenario a good tailor can make them functioning after your sleeves have been properly altered.
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post #5 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:43am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

Can't agree with this part, there's nothing wrong with hook-and-eye closures and even my bespoke trousers have them.

i dont think anything is wrong with them, many of my pants, even the more expensive ones have them. they just always feel a bit cheap to me. i think that it is something better clothing makers should go the extra mile on and provide.
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post #6 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:44am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

The ventless jacket is generally seen as a more formal jacket. This is why traditional tuxedos are usually ventless. No vents also help those with a larger backside.

both excellent points.
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post #7 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

The ventless jacket is generally seen as a more formal jacket. This is why traditional tuxedos are usually ventless. No vents also help those with a larger backside.
Surgeon's cuffs are traditionally the mark of a bespoke jacket. In recent years OTR offerings have featured surgeon's cuffs to make them appear more expensive or even to mimic bespoke detailing. However, OTR jackets with surgeon's cuffs are extremely hard and expensive to alter. For this reason I prefer my OTR jackets, especially those bought online, to have non-functioning cuffs. Worst case scenario a good tailor can make them functioning after your sleeves have been properly altered.

my beef with them is that really their only purpose is to show that you spent more money on the jacket, either because you bespoke it in the first place, or you paid to have the functioning cuffs put on a rtw garment after the sleeves were altered. there is no other aesthetic or functional purpose (for me at least, as i am not a surgeon and never have occasion to unbutton the cuffs). fwiw, the duke of windsor had his buttons sewn on, non-functional (read this somewhere, i forget where...i think somewhere on london lounge).
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post #8 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:53am
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Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

my beef with them is that really their only purpose is to show that you spent more money on the jacket, either because you bespoke it in the first place, or you paid to have the functioning cuffs put on a rtw garment after the sleeves were altered. there is no other aesthetic or functional purpose (for me at least, as i am not a surgeon and never have occasion to unbutton the cuffs). fwiw, the duke of windsor had his buttons sewn on, non-functional (read this somewhere, i forget where...i think somewhere on london lounge).

Agreed, they are very showy. I would never roll the sleeves on one of my jackets, either. I think the detail is a nod to those that understand what functioning cuffs mean (what you have stated above). It's pretty funny to think that the only people that understand or notice surgeon's cuffs are the same people that are the most likely be annoyed by their showiness.
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post #9 of 60
11/8/11 at 7:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Agreed, they are very showy. I would never roll the sleeves on one of my jackets, either. I think the detail is a nod to those that understand what functioning cuffs mean (what you have stated above). It's pretty funny to think that the only people that understand or notice surgeon's cuffs are the same people that are the most likely be annoyed by their showiness.

And, at this point, as you said, you're potentially getting lumped in with some people who buy something rtw and then get functioning cuffs put on it to pretend like they got bespoke. to the folks that are initiated enough to know what the cuffs mean, but not initiated enough to tell that this is a shitty, ill-fitting rtw jacket, not a finely crafted bespoke product, there is no difference. better just to avoid the whole signaling game and let your clothes speak for themselves in quality, not these ancillary signals
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post #10 of 60
11/8/11 at 8:12am
Thread Starter 
as i said. they do create tailoring issues on OTR garments that need tailoring. but i think they are the ducks nuts. they arent too showy imo, you dont even have to unbutton any buttons (I do, the top one smile.gif ) and certainly they dont need to be turned up. but they are fun to have and know that they are there.

anyhow, as i alluded to in the op that is a topic that has been discussed here for pages and pages.

any other things i didnt mention that you guys can think of?
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post #11 of 60
11/8/11 at 8:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

there is no other aesthetic or functional purpose (for me at least, as i am not a surgeon and never have occasion to unbutton the cuffs).

I mostly agree with you - with one exception.

In the case of shanked blazer buttons I find that they look aesthetically much better in a functioning cuff, where the shank sits down in the buttonhole and the button lies flat on the sleeve, as opposed to flopping around on the top of the sleeve.
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post #12 of 60
11/8/11 at 8:14am
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Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

any other things i didnt mention that you guys can think of?

Trousers - the little loop of fabric above the fly to thread your belt buckle through.
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post #13 of 60
11/8/11 at 8:14am
Did you mention full canvassing for jackets?
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post #14 of 60
11/8/11 at 8:15am
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Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

any other things i didnt mention that you guys can think of?

Dunno if this was what you meant, but I'm a sucker for hand-finishing details. Especially hand-stitched button holes.
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post #15 of 60
11/8/11 at 8:21am
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Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

Did you mention full canvassing for jackets?

nope, that is a good one. but i was more refering to finishing than construction. that would make for a diferent conversation

i wasnt deliberately leaving anything out. that was all i could think of at the moment. feel free to add or discuss any items that come to mind.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Dunno if this was what you meant, but I'm a sucker for hand-finishing details. Especially hand-stitched button holes.

anything involving "stitches" has my inlove.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by tj100 View Post

Trousers - the little loop of fabric above the fly to thread your belt buckle through.

i love that little guy!
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