Knox
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2006
- Messages
- 146
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The (new) Norman Hilton jackets--they've already received quite a bit of good press. I am happy to add my voice to the chorus of praise. I've seen them. And worn them.
Mr. Hilton--Nick, that is--is using Lovat Mill cloth. Once upon a time, there were several Norman Hilton models, including more than one version of the undarted, soft-construction jacket. Mr. Hilton is using the time-tested Hampton model for the current, resurrected version. Undarted, natural shoulders, hook vent. Relatively but not absurdly narrow lapels, and 1/4" stitching. What the old Norman Hilton model book calls "tracing"--there's a bit, but very subtle and soft. Some prefer the word "shaping." Again, there's some, but, to my eyes, not as much as some remember the Hampton featuring. Certainly it's not the shapeless "sack" that some prefer. The lines are, well, again, soft.
Following a long but worthwhile search, Mr. Hilton found a master tailor in NYC to do the cutting and sewing. Again, at the risk of repetition, everything about the jacket is identical to the 60s-era Hampton model. Everything. This would make sense, since Mr. Hilton had (has) the original design ("papers") his father created. Yes, the cut-and-sew operation in Linden is no more. But the same level of craftsmanship is there.
What's even more interesting is that there is a made-to-measure option--Norman Hilton in NYC. The customer selects the fabric (with Mr. Hilton's guidance, to be sure; after all, Norman Hilton clothing was unique in part because of the superb cloth), and Mr. Hilton works with him on the measurements. But the Hampton model specs are available. So, it's entirely possible one could simply go with a 42 regular, using the Hampton specs for that particular size. For the sake of authenticity, that would be the way to go, I think.
In an era dominated by off-the-rack clothing that is, for lack of a better term, awful, this resurrection is a breath of fresh air. For those inclined toward soft, unpadded construction and excellent cloth, the (new) Norman Hilton Hampton jackets are reason to rejoice.
Mr. Hilton--Nick, that is--is using Lovat Mill cloth. Once upon a time, there were several Norman Hilton models, including more than one version of the undarted, soft-construction jacket. Mr. Hilton is using the time-tested Hampton model for the current, resurrected version. Undarted, natural shoulders, hook vent. Relatively but not absurdly narrow lapels, and 1/4" stitching. What the old Norman Hilton model book calls "tracing"--there's a bit, but very subtle and soft. Some prefer the word "shaping." Again, there's some, but, to my eyes, not as much as some remember the Hampton featuring. Certainly it's not the shapeless "sack" that some prefer. The lines are, well, again, soft.
Following a long but worthwhile search, Mr. Hilton found a master tailor in NYC to do the cutting and sewing. Again, at the risk of repetition, everything about the jacket is identical to the 60s-era Hampton model. Everything. This would make sense, since Mr. Hilton had (has) the original design ("papers") his father created. Yes, the cut-and-sew operation in Linden is no more. But the same level of craftsmanship is there.
What's even more interesting is that there is a made-to-measure option--Norman Hilton in NYC. The customer selects the fabric (with Mr. Hilton's guidance, to be sure; after all, Norman Hilton clothing was unique in part because of the superb cloth), and Mr. Hilton works with him on the measurements. But the Hampton model specs are available. So, it's entirely possible one could simply go with a 42 regular, using the Hampton specs for that particular size. For the sake of authenticity, that would be the way to go, I think.
In an era dominated by off-the-rack clothing that is, for lack of a better term, awful, this resurrection is a breath of fresh air. For those inclined toward soft, unpadded construction and excellent cloth, the (new) Norman Hilton Hampton jackets are reason to rejoice.