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Need advice about this suit

post #1 of 8
10/30/11 at 10:27am
Thread Starter 

This is my first post so sorry for asking for help without having first contributed anything. I dont wear suits often but need one for a couple of things I have coming up. I really need it to last me a while. Can anyone offer me any advice about what it is that doesn't fit about this suit? I feel like there is maybe too much material in the waist area (particularly when buttoned, looks better unbuttoned), which I have heard can be adjusted reasonably easily by a tailor. My concern is the shoulders, is it too big? I tried on a 36" and it seemed to fit a bit to snugly on my shoulders but I am worried that this 38" is too big as I have heard that this is very difficult to have altered. I cant afford to have any adjustments done now but as long it is possible for it to be fitted a bit better in future i'm happy.

 

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

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post #2 of 8
10/31/11 at 8:30am
Thread Starter 

Sorry about the bump but only just got moderated now so no time at the top! 

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post #3 of 8
10/31/11 at 9:05am
based on the width of the lapels, tie, pocket flaps and tiny shirt collar i assume you are going for that slim trendy look; so i'll start off by saying take this first part as just my personal preference.
  • i would prefer longer collar points so that they sit nicely under the lapels.
  • i would prefer wider lapels (and pocket flaps), so there is less "empty space" on your chest which would make the jacket look more proportional
  • i would prefer a wider tie to balance off with the wider lapels and larger collar

now for some of the more glaring items related to fit:
  • there is a lot of fabric behind your triceps going down. the sleeve pitch (how the sleeve hangs off your shoulder) is off and is probably what is causing some of the bunching in the back (in combination with the excess fabric)
  • the flaring of the vent in the back should probably not be happening. i think it is being caused by the jacket being "shaped" through waist suppression instead of actual shaping.
  • the jacket could stand to be a little longer.
  • the shoulders look okay in the front, but not as good in the back

Since you indicated you would like to keep this suit long term, i'll say, in my opinion, the more time you spend here, the less you will like this suit, irrespective of what a tailor does. If you don't need it now, i'd say take it back, learn more about fit and find brands that work well for you as a starter off the rack.
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post #4 of 8
10/31/11 at 9:52am
To add to nidawg3 there.. I would invest in a Navy or Grey Suit if this is meant for job interviews and the such. If you are buying this for wedding/funeral then Black is acceptable.

You should use the 'Rule of Thumb' meaning a jacket's length should end near your thumb when your arms are down. Also, the left Lapel (your left) seems weirdly folded

He is right about the proportions of the suit, tie and collar.

Check this:

ralph-lauren-black-label-mens-suit-design.jpg

It makes a big difference when the lapels are a tad bit wider and the collar is spread out a bit more than yours
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post #5 of 8
10/31/11 at 10:24am
Do the lean against the wall test. Does the fabric hit the wall before your shoulder? if so, too big. The way it is dimpling I suspect that is the case.

I second everyting niidawg says. In general it doesn't appear that the suit is good for your shape. Every manufacturer is different.

As far as making it last for a while, your comment is all the reason you need to stay away from a trendy look and take on a little more traditional details.
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post #6 of 8
11/1/11 at 3:18am
Thread Starter 

Firstly, thanks a lot for your replies. Niidawg3 you make a lot of good points that I wouldn't have noticed, particularly about the collar. I was already a bit concerned about the lapels but now I realise the difference they make to the proportions of the suit. 

 

The suit is actually Navy I didn't set the white balance on my camera properly so it appears darker. Also I'm pretty confused about what it means for the shoulders to fit correctly. It seems that most people I see leave a tiny kind of lip of shoulder pad hanging over. Is this not right?

 

Save for the lapels, would it not look more like that guy in the photos suit if it was taken in in the waist a bit?

 

I think the comment about staying away from the trendy look is fair enough but as I am so skinny I get drowned out easily by traditionally cut suits, I get that kid dressing up look.

 

Thanks again for your replies It's good to get some constructive criticism from people who clearly know more about this sort of thing than I do.

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post #7 of 8
11/1/11 at 11:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by greamegraeme View Post



The suit is actually Navy I didn't set the white balance on my camera properly so it appears darker. Also I'm pretty confused about what it means for the shoulders to fit correctly. It seems that most people I see leave a tiny kind of lip of shoulder pad hanging over. Is this not right?

I think the comment about staying away from the trendy look is fair enough but as I am so skinny I get drowned out easily by traditionally cut suits, I get that kid dressing up look.



Traditional details, not fit. I didn't mean get a boxy American sack suit. I meant stay away from super skinny lapels, short jackets and jegging-tight pants that sit way down on your hips. As far as shoulders go, the sleevehead should line up on your shoulder, no more no less.

check this:
http://www.esquire.com/style/how-to-shop/how-to-fit-0909
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post #8 of 8
11/1/11 at 1:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

Traditional details, not fit. I didn't mean get a boxy American sack suit. I meant stay away from super skinny lapels, short jackets and jegging-tight pants that sit way down on your hips. As far as shoulders go, the sleevehead should line up on your shoulder, no more no less.
check this:
http://www.esquire.com/style/how-to-shop/how-to-fit-0909

I would second CousinDonuts and niidawg3's sentiments. As long as the fit itself is proper, you shouldn't have to worry about being drowned out or overwhelmed by the elements of your suit. Best of luck.
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