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PREFERENCE: Naturaly shoulder vs. moderately padded shoulder - Page 3

post #31 of 56
Thread Starter 
Here's a sample of the Benjamin Sartorial "Napoli" natural shoulder model in a suit... almost no shoulder padding. What do you guys think? Too casual of a shoulder for a suit? I like it but I'm curious to hear what you gents have to say.


post #32 of 56

Seems entirely reasonable to me.

 

I'm actually in the midst of weighing bald vs natural for a fresco suit with patch pockets, so I'll be following the responses to your query closely.

post #33 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Here's a sample of the Benjamin Sartorial "Napoli" natural shoulder model in a suit... almost no shoulder padding. What do you guys think? Too casual of a shoulder for a suit? I like it but I'm curious to hear what you gents have to say.



I am a purist. That is not a natural shoulder. I have a wonderful Isaia suit purchased from eHaberdasher
in '07, I believe. It is the now discontinued "Stuart" model, i think. I had my tailor remove the "minimal padding",
which was less than the example shown above.
post #34 of 56
I agree with Comrade - I think you could get by with even less padding. But it looks very promising. Apart from the sleeve length, it looks damn near perfect. Zegna has been moving toward a natural shoulder, as have others. I think it's going to start to be an industry standard. The overdone padding is flattering on very few builds.
post #35 of 56
Shoulder looks fine, though I think a different sleeve attachment (slightly roped if there is such a thing) would look better here. Not a fan of the absurd gorge and high buttoning point though.
post #36 of 56
I'm actually pretty interested in why people (especially those across the pond) prefer unpadded/natural shoulders. Is there a particular reason -- is this perhaps, a logical progression from Brooks Brothers' sack coats that one wears in university?
post #37 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

I'm actually pretty interested in why people (especially those across the pond) prefer unpadded/natural shoulders. Is there a particular reason -- is this perhaps, a logical progression from Brooks Brothers' sack coats that one wears in university?

To a certain extent, Yes. Many of us grew up with the "Ivy" League look. For several decades, 50s and 60s it was the national
elite standard style. Prior to that it was the style of the Eastern WASP elite and it's branches in such places as Chicago and
San Francisco. My style has evolved over the years, but I have always retained the natural shoulder preference. It also happens
to suit my build.
post #38 of 56
Natural doesn't mean unpadded. The recent fad for non-existent shoulder padding is out of control. A lot of guys benefit from a bit of pad, and some of the unstructured stuff that's become the fashion on SF and the blogosphere lately looks positively shlumpy.

I like a lightly padded natural shoulder, but the pendulum's swung to an extreme -- never a good sign.
post #39 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

I'm actually pretty interested in why people (especially those across the pond) prefer unpadded/natural shoulders. Is there a particular reason -- is this perhaps, a logical progression from Brooks Brothers' sack coats that one wears in university?


I just really like the feel of them. Also, I have the right shoulders for it.

post #40 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

I'm actually pretty interested in why people (especially those across the pond) prefer unpadded/natural shoulders. Is there a particular reason -- is this perhaps, a logical progression from Brooks Brothers' sack coats that one wears in university?

I worked for Grieco Brothers back in the early to mid 90's when they were making for Brooks Brothers, Southwick, PRL and Paul Stuart - probably why I prefer the softer shoulder. I'm living here in London now and really don't like the shoulders in general here... but who knows if I'm here long enough maybe it'll grow on me.
post #41 of 56

As an ivy/prep/madmen enthusiastist, I prefer natural shoulder. I dislike padded shoulder. I have studied in London for years but padded shoulder, spread collar, cutaway collar, windsor knot never grow on me.    

Back in Thailand, there is sort of pad fetish among suit tailoring which I think it is totally horrible. 

post #42 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Here's a sample of the Benjamin Sartorial "Napoli" natural shoulder model in a suit... almost no shoulder padding. What do you guys think? Too casual of a shoulder for a suit? I like it but I'm curious to hear what you gents have to say. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Far too casual for any real businessman.

Contrary to popular culture, The typical english is even too soft for me.
post #43 of 56
Lol at "real businessman" tag. Good one
Edited by iSurg - 5/19/13 at 6:14am
post #44 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by iSurg View Post

Lol at "real businessman" tag. Good one

 

+1 to this, lol....

post #45 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


I just really like the feel of them. Also, I have the right shoulders for it.
What is the right kind of shoulder to go well with minimal/no padding?
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