PREFERENCE: Naturaly shoulder vs. moderately padded shoulder - Page 3
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I am a purist. That is not a natural shoulder. I have a wonderful Isaia suit purchased from eHaberdasher
in '07, I believe. It is the now discontinued "Stuart" model, i think. I had my tailor remove the "minimal padding",
which was less than the example shown above.
To a certain extent, Yes. Many of us grew up with the "Ivy" League look. For several decades, 50s and 60s it was the national
elite standard style. Prior to that it was the style of the Eastern WASP elite and it's branches in such places as Chicago and
San Francisco. My style has evolved over the years, but I have always retained the natural shoulder preference. It also happens
to suit my build.
I like a lightly padded natural shoulder, but the pendulum's swung to an extreme -- never a good sign.
I just really like the feel of them. Also, I have the right shoulders for it.
I worked for Grieco Brothers back in the early to mid 90's when they were making for Brooks Brothers, Southwick, PRL and Paul Stuart - probably why I prefer the softer shoulder. I'm living here in London now and really don't like the shoulders in general here... but who knows if I'm here long enough maybe it'll grow on me.
As an ivy/prep/madmen enthusiastist, I prefer natural shoulder. I dislike padded shoulder. I have studied in London for years but padded shoulder, spread collar, cutaway collar, windsor knot never grow on me.
Back in Thailand, there is sort of pad fetish among suit tailoring which I think it is totally horrible.
Here's a sample of the Benjamin Sartorial "Napoli" natural shoulder model in a suit... almost no shoulder padding. What do you guys think? Too casual of a shoulder for a suit? I like it but I'm curious to hear what you gents have to say. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Far too casual for any real businessman.
Contrary to popular culture, The typical english is even too soft for me.