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Tricker's quality?

post #1 of 6
10/26/11 at 1:53pm
Thread Starter 
Don't get me wrong, I think Tricker's are 'ok' (I've owned a few pairs) but I have few concerns:

1. £185 for a re-sole (about £100 from other quality makers)
2. Don't use Itshide rubber soles, only commando (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do)
3. No veldtschoen collection (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do/did)
5. Don't used Horween cordovan, only Mogano shell (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney use it)
6. Dramatic increase in price over the last few years (were £270 in 2008, now £350)
7. Some retailers I've spoken to have expressed concern about leather quality
8. Brown zug grain is (or was) the same as that used on the old Sargent line, only they were £100 more
9. Don't really go in for burnishing their shoes (as C&J and other makers do)
10. Limited range of RTW styles and colours (they rely mainly on the country collection)

My Grasmere boots (three years old) crapped up last year and I sold them - leather had really deteriorated.

My Bourtons, in Marron Antique, have held up ok (four years old), but the leather has recently gone at the side.

I'm only looking at C&J Handgrade, the Handgrade Sargent stuff and Green now.

Shouldn't have to toss quality shoes after three years!
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post #2 of 6
10/26/11 at 2:19pm
I am not that experienced with Trickers since I only ever use their MTO service and only for their Jodepurs.

Their calf leather (at least for MTO) and worksmenship is good for the price (around 560 gbp). I have 3 pairs that I love.
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post #3 of 6
10/26/11 at 2:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rabiesinfrance View Post

Don't get me wrong, I think Tricker's are 'ok' (I've owned a few pairs) but I have few concerns:
1. £185 for a re-sole (about £100 from other quality makers)
2. Don't use Itshide rubber soles, only commando (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do)
3. No veldtschoen collection (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do/did)
5. Don't used Horween cordovan, only Mogano shell (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney use it)
6. Dramatic increase in price over the last few years (were £270 in 2008, now £350)
7. Some retailers I've spoken to have expressed concern about leather quality
8. Brown zug grain is (or was) the same as that used on the old Sargent line, only they were £100 more
9. Don't really go in for burnishing their shoes (as C&J and other makers do)
10. Limited range of RTW styles and colours (they rely mainly on the country collection)
My Grasmere boots (three years old) crapped up last year and I sold them - leather had really deteriorated.
My Bourtons, in Marron Antique, have held up ok (four years old), but the leather has recently gone at the side.
I'm only looking at C&J Handgrade, the Handgrade Sargent stuff and Green now.
Shouldn't have to toss quality shoes after three years!

1. Nothing to do with the quality of the boot; just get them resoled at a trusted cobbler.
2. I have found no quality difference between the Itshide Commando sole (which I have resoled my Indy boots to) and teh Dainite Commando sole I have on my trickers.
3. Again, this does not impact the quality of their line, only a lack thereof.
5. (well, you missed 4); They use horween cordovan: http://indigoshrimp.wordpress.com/2011/10/25/trickers-mahogany-shell-cordovan-stow-boots/
6. English shoe prices have increased dramatically across the board. It makes me sad, but it's true.
7. This point is really just "Some people say it's bad."
8. I don't know enough of this to comment.
9. Trickers aren't really a city kind of shoe. I know they have a city brand, but that's really not what the company goes for.
10. See point 9.

Edit: Tbh, I have never seen a pair of dead Trickers. I'd love to see your pics,
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post #4 of 6
10/26/11 at 3:39pm
Thread Starter 
I'll have think about those points.

The first Horween boots I've seen - good that they are using the best.

I suppose my worry is that they are putting up prices and correspondingly reducing overall quality (in order to compete).

I'll dig out a few photos (if I still have them). I went so far as to send my brown zug grain boots to Tricker's for assessment. They weren't very helpful: they suggested that I get them independently tested (at my own expense) to see if there was a problem with the leather, with no assurance that they would do anything about them even if a problem had been identified. In my case, the leather turned black where it scuffed or where there was any point of contact e.g. where the laces dug into the tongue. Bear in mind I looked after them properly: trees, regularly polished, etc.

Sargent also do/did an Anton Tan boot - looks very similar to C shade gorse. Do they use the same type of leather? Also:

http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/collections/sanders-1/products/sanders-jude-dark-brown

Looks the same as the Grasmere to me.

At £350 a pair they should be a pair for life - if not that at least get at least 10 - 15 years out of them.
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post #5 of 6
10/27/11 at 1:02am
It's true that their prices have increased recently, but certainly their leather and quality is excellent. The aniline leather is the nicest i've felt on any pair of shoes - thick and soft.

The country range is head and shoulders above other similar styles - e.g. Grenson (terrible), Loake (not bad for the price) Alden (QC issues) etc.

No experience with handgrade but it looks good and comparable to similar brands in the same price range.
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post #6 of 6
10/27/11 at 1:04am
I don't know how you broke a pair after three years. I've had mine for nearly a year and i can't imagine them breaking.
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