Two suits from an 'off the row' London tailor
Here are two bespoke suits, made recently for me in London.
The first suit is single-breasted with 3" notch lapels, breaking approximately 5.5" from the shoulder line. The shoulders are padded (although not heavily) with hand-finished roped sleeveheads and regular breast pocket. The back is double-vented and the front quarters are cut away at a sharper angle than usual. The material is a medium-weight charcoal grey with faint light grey pinstripes and the suit is fully hand-canvassed. The cuffs are cut at an angle (see photo). There are two pockets whose edges are curved front and back and which sit straight with no slant. The button stance is very low - not far off where a one-button suit would be - and the lower button is never fastened. This suit cost £820 and took approximately 4 fittings and 7 weeks to make.
The suit is very comfortable and, although the cut is athletic with a slim waist, broad shoulders and lots of drape in the chest, it does not pull or snag anywhere - I would prefer to sacrifice an angular silhouette rather than have a suit which appears too tight.
The second suit is single-breasted with large, appreciably bowed peak lapels. It has natural shoulders (almost no padding) with hand-finished roped sleeveheads and an appreciably curved breast pocket. The back is double-vented and the front quarters are cut away at a sharper angle than usual. The button stance is very slightly lower than is standard and the lower button's position reflects that the fact that it is not designed to be fastened. There are two pockets, cut at a slight angle, whose corners are curved at the front and kick out slightly at the back. The material is an extremely lightweight 120 in charcoal grey with a faint blue windowpane check and the suit is fully hand-canvassed. It cost £900 and took approximately 5 fittings and 7 weeks to make.
Would be great to get your thoughts ...
Cheers, M.
Edited by mc5581 - 10/26/11 at 12:42pm












