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Two Bespoke Suits from London (Pics)

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 

Two suits from an 'off the row' London tailor

Here are two bespoke suits, made recently for me in London.

The first suit is single-breasted with 3" notch lapels, breaking approximately 5.5" from the shoulder line. The shoulders are padded (although not heavily) with hand-finished roped sleeveheads and regular breast pocket. The back is double-vented and the front quarters are cut away at a sharper angle than usual. The material is a medium-weight charcoal grey with faint light grey pinstripes and the suit is fully hand-canvassed. The cuffs are cut at an angle (see photo). There are two pockets whose edges are curved front and back and which sit straight with no slant. The button stance is very low - not far off where a one-button suit would be - and the lower button is never fastened. This suit cost £820 and took approximately 4 fittings and 7 weeks to make.

The suit is very comfortable and, although the cut is athletic with a slim waist, broad shoulders and lots of drape in the chest, it does not pull or snag anywhere - I would prefer to sacrifice an angular silhouette rather than have a suit which appears too tight.

 

IMG_1750.jpg

 

IMG_1767.jpg

 

IMG_1768.jpg

 

The second suit is single-breasted with large, appreciably bowed peak lapels. It has natural shoulders (almost no padding) with hand-finished roped sleeveheads and an appreciably curved breast pocket. The back is double-vented and the front quarters are cut away at a sharper angle than usual. The button stance is very slightly lower than is standard and the lower button's position reflects that the fact that it is not designed to be fastened. There are two pockets, cut at a slight angle, whose corners are curved at the front and kick out slightly at the back. The material is an extremely lightweight 120 in charcoal grey with a faint blue windowpane check and the suit is fully hand-canvassed. It cost £900 and took approximately 5 fittings and 7 weeks to make.

 

suit3.jpg

 

IMG_1708.jpg

 

Would be great to get your thoughts ...

 

Cheers, M.

 

 


Edited by mc5581 - 10/26/11 at 12:42pm
post #2 of 34
I'm partial to the peak lapel - and it looks fantastic. To me, it's just an underated style.
Congrats. The notch lapel fits you like a glove. Awesome.
post #3 of 34
Those are some wide peak lapels, but I'm diggin it icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #4 of 34

thats some suit hanger shoulders...

post #5 of 34
Not quite sure what but it looks a bit off, with that buttoning point i feel the coat should have been a bit longer. not a big fan of the shoulders too.
post #6 of 34
How did you get a bespoke suit in London for 900 pounds? Who's the tailor?
post #7 of 34
They did a great job by the way.
post #8 of 34
From what it is possible to tell from two restricted photographs

No 1

Too tight around button point
Shoulders exaggerated - too much padding/roping and so too dominant
Sleeves too short
Lapels slightly too wide.
Quarters excessive


No 2

Whilst peak lapels are OK if you like them, this pattern for the lapel does not look good at all. Slightly redolent of something made by a multiple tailor from 35 years back
Shoulders ditto

I would suggest over much thought and not enough observation of what is about - who allowed these two to leave his work room?

Clearly if you are happy then so be it but not elegant I'm afraid. Sorry.
post #9 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

From what it is possible to tell from two restricted photographs
No 1
Too tight around button point
Shoulders exaggerated - too much padding/roping and so too dominant
....

+1; shoulders also seem extended and jacket looks short.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

...
No 2
..
Shoulders ditto
....

+1
post #10 of 34
gorgeous, just a bit too tight on the button.
post #11 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post

Not quite sure what but it looks a bit off, with that buttoning point i feel the coat should have been a bit longer. not a big fan of the shoulders too.

+1. Those are the two things I noticed, the shoulders are a bit wide, but the bigger issue is the combo of wide built chest and shoulders with low button point and short jacket gives the whole thing a top heavy look. IMO it needs more 'skirt', ie longer body. Without a matching curved full quarters to visually balance the lapels it just looks like it's hanging off your shoulders instead of covering your whole torso. Does that make sense?

for suit #2, eh, bellied lapels make it interesting but I'm not convinced they're at home on a single breasted jacket. Still, it's interesting at the least. Full body color pics would probably make this easier to asses...
post #12 of 34

the shoulders are too long for me

post #13 of 34
those peak lapels are seriously goofy looking.

like the first suit though
post #14 of 34
Shoulders are a bit off. Otherwise they both look good. Very stylish, very hip!
post #15 of 34
I am sorry but the prominent shoulders make both jackets look out of proportion.
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