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Proportions of a Coat

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 

I am 5'8", with a thin frame. I recently found this beautiful vintage overcoat that fits me perfectly in the shoulders and body, I just need to shorten the sleeves a bit. It's double breasted, and the six buttons are all parallel and completely centered on the body of the coat. That brings me to my question; I am young, and I am really into fashion, so while this piece is pretty timeless, I would be willing to add a quirk here and there; The coat is a full length, it hits lower to mid-calf, but it really dwarfs me, and just doesn't work for my style. I am wanting to have it shortened to about an inch above the knee, so not quite 3/4, but not quite full length. Kind of a line between stylish and classic.

 

I am completely aware that shortening the coat would throw the buttons "off-balance", moving them from being dead center to being at the lower portion of the coat. Traditionally, this can look rather strange. So, I had a few thoughts on how to counteract this.

 

1. Add a fourth pair of matching buttons at the top, creating three parallel rows with an additional wider breast row of buttons.

2. Take off the bottom buttons for a four-button double breasted look. (of course, it'd leave a visible buttonhole at the bottom, not sure if that would be a huge issue)

3. Take off the bottom row of buttons and move them to the wider section at the chest, shifting the balance upwards.

4. Leave the buttons intact, for a low-buttoning coat. (it just seems like it'd look weird)

 

Pretend you had to pick one of those options, I'm not interested in reasoning why or why I shouldn't shorten the coat. Let's pretend I already did, and you must now make one of the choices above. 

 

Thanks!

post #2 of 14
5. Don't butcher the coat and just find one you like better, or deal with the fact that it's classic and you'll look nice.

Seriously, no matter what you do, having the buttons or the buttonhole down as low as it is will make it look off. Adding more buttons on top might balance it some, but having the buttons there at all will look weird. And yes, if you leave the giant buttonhole it will be noticed.

Really, don't ruin the coat, which IS what you'll be doing. If you don't like it, give it to somebody who'll actually appreciate it.
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 

I already acknowledged that some would say this, so that still doesn't really answer much. By what you say, it may work to add an extra top pair, I've seen great 8 button coats before. Butchering is an exaggeration, in my opinion, making a nice piece more wearable seems appropriate. I have acknowledged that I want to counteract the shortcomings; I never said I was going to dip it in a vat of oil and chainsaws before getting any alterations made. ;)

post #4 of 14
shorten it to a point that just covers your knees.
that extra row of buttons would look awkward.
post #5 of 14
Please provide lots of photos of the coat on you, with and without a jacket on under it.
Welcome to Styleforum.
post #6 of 14
Quote:
If you don't like it, give it to somebody who'll actually appreciate it.

*shamelessly raises hand*

What is it about this particular coat that you feel you must make it conform to you rather than buying one that fits the way you want?

EDIT: Of course, it may simply be the apprehensiveness coming through. As Man Of Lint suggested, photos would be an asset; maybe the coat could truly benefit from alteration.

Regardless, we cannot make educated guesses without photos.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 

Well, I have searched for a camel coat for quite some time. It seems impossible to find something that is great for less than 500, which I was about to spend, until I found this vintage piece. It has never been worn. It's perfect condition, the design is lovely, from the buttons to the peak lapels and the epaulettes, everything. It was too much of a steal to let go in any aspect. The quality is great, this is an awesome coat. But I am young, and the camel look is my favorite, but the more fashionable cuts are extremely pricey. I am a student that doesn't have that type of budget right now. I like the very slight looseness, it's not exactly form-fit, but it's not blatantly oversized. It's so perfect, except for one aspect. I wouldn't just jump into anything, I am putting a lot of thought into this. For my personal taste, the whole thing is too good to let go, and if I don't alter it, I am surely not giving it away anytime soon. But if I can make this wearable for my taste in a presentable manner, I definitely will. 

 

Here are some photos, the closed one is a better reference. I included some very rough, badly photoshopped edits of what I was thinking of doing, more or less, but as I said, I am not sure. Keep in mind, the length is exaggerated by the angle of the picture, so it doesn't actually make my legs look that awkward. And I wasn't really dressing for it, I just threw the coat over what I had on:

 

Closed:

[IMG]http://i44.tinypic.com/10xsnll.jpg[/IMG]

 

Open:

[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/25tdq2g.jpg[/IMG]

post #8 of 14
You're young, but so am I, and I'm telling you that you don't need to screw around with this coat. You don't have to be old to appreciate a classic garment- that's the entire point of classic. It looks great as it is, though I must say that the photoshopping makes it seem like the alteration wouldn't be as horrible as it could be.
post #9 of 14
You can't just add a row of buttons, you'll find out why when you ask a tailor to do it. The length looks better on you as it is. Certain styles of topcoats look better at certain lengths. Leave this coat as is until you can appreciate it for what it is. Your eye for proportion and senses may change and you will regret cutting it off. The biggest flaw about the coat is how low the collar, gorge and lapel are positioned. If the pockets were placed midway between the lowest and middle button, you may get away with shortening but not the way the details are laid out.
post #10 of 14
The coat looks pretty good.

Generally you are supposed to wear something other than just a shirt under it. When wearing at least a thick sweater underneath it would look much nicer.

As far as your suggestions of altering it, I definitely would not..that coat (from what I see) is pretty decently fitting, and you will look very nice in it when pulling it off correctly. Just get the sleeves fixed and you should be good to go.
post #11 of 14
I am a little confused here. Note the tapering at the waist, giving your body the 'hourglass' effect.
Way too much hips for a mans coat, tapered or not.
In the CLOSED photo, do you have the coat buttoned left over right? or right over left?
It appears that you have it closed (mirror taken into consideration) Right over Left, in which case, this is a womens coat.
Please confirm.
post #12 of 14
Thread Starter 

Man of Lint: Actually, no, mirror taken into consideration, the coat clearly buttons left over right, and there is not much tapering on the actual garment. 

 

Saturdays: I clarified that I wasn't dressed up for it, I am aware that these coats are not made for a simple v-neck.

post #13 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Yates View Post

Man of Lint: Actually, no, mirror taken into consideration, the coat clearly buttons left over right, and there is not much tapering on the actual garment. 

In that case I would have to join with the consensus here and leave it 'as is' for now. Take it for a spin with either jackets or sweaters under for awhile. This will give you a better reading as to what possible alterations you may consider down the road.
post #14 of 14
The coat looks good as it is. Shortening the body would throw the proportions out of whack.
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