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BlackTieFoo: Shirt Studs and Other Fooish Contemplations - Page 7

post #91 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Eh. They are definitely sleeker, but too much so for me. Also, it sounds like they are not goodyear-welted like the Aldens or C&Js.

The C&Js are cement sole. The Aldens aren't.
post #92 of 139
Thread Starter 
Funny funny. The cufflinks in this picture (at bottom) are the ones I'll be wearing:

fnsqstsmm.jpg
post #93 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Eh. They are definitely sleeker, but too much so for me. Also, it sounds like they are not goodyear-welted like the Aldens or C&Js.

No, they're not Goodyear welted but cemented (as are the C&Js as mentioned above). Do you think you'll to get so much wear of out them that you'd need the sole replaceability of a Goodyear weld? Are patent leather uppers expected to remain great looking for the lives of several soles?

Another suggestion, though maybe still too sleek:

200

Btw, what colour is your bow?
post #94 of 139
Thread Starter 
Bowtie is black grosgrain, as will be the cummerbund.
post #95 of 139
If going stricktly by teh rulez, should the bow match the colour/material of the lapel facings? (I don't recall if your's are black or midnight?)

FWIW I like that you go black bow with a midnight DJ to avoid being too matchy matchy...
post #96 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

If going stricktly by teh rulez, should the bow match the colour/material of the lapel facings? (I don't recall if your's are black or midnight?)
FWIW I like that you go black bow with a midnight DJ to avoid being too matchy matchy...

I don't know what the rules of correctness say, but my aesthetic sense tells me that a midnight blue bowtie matched to a midnight blue dinner suit with midnight blue facings would look stupid.

That said, if I could have had it my way from the beginning, I would have worn a black satain bowtie and cummerbund instead of grosgrain versions, to contrast a bit better with my dinner suit's grosgrain trim.
post #97 of 139
Gotcha. Do you find the C&J slippers above too sleek for your particular setup?
post #98 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

Gotcha. Do you find the C&J slippers above too sleek for your particular setup?

No, I don't mind those at all. I noticed them in my search, but didn't want to go through the trouble of figuring out my sizing.
post #99 of 139

I like those C&J slippers as the in-between option.

post #100 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

No, I don't mind those at all. I noticed them in my search, but didn't want to go through the trouble of figuring out my sizing.

Maybe this conveniently located store can help wink.gif
post #101 of 139
Thread Starter 
Went for my shirt fitting at Geneva today. They did a really bang-up job--great fit for a first shot. It needs to be taken in at the waist and have some back darts put in, but that is because I've lost a lot of weight since they measured me. The collar is a tad looser than I'm used to, but not wrong.

I'm perhaps most pleased with the collar shape. I may have found my new shirtmaker.
post #102 of 139
Thread Starter 
Well, the wedding was over the weekend and I wore my full get-up. First time ever in 100% correct black tie. A few observations:

1. I f*cked up by ordering my shirt with a two-button collar as on my regular shirts. The bottom button tends to show.

2. A cummerbund is useful even with a double-breasted dinner jacket. When sitting or dancing it's nice to have the option of unbuttoning the jacket.

3. Even though it was a large black tie event (~250 people) at a fancy hotel with generally well-to-do guests, very few men dressed in fully correct black tie. In fact, there were more guys in black suits with long black ties than ones in a proper tuxedo with a bow tie. Most of the men in correct black tie were over 60. Almost all dinner jackets worn were single breasted with notch lapels. Shoes were egregious across the board. It was basically as if people just wore whatever black shoes they happened to have. Lots of brogues. Lots of loafers, too.

4. A surprising number of men, young and old, wore pocket squares. They probably shouldn't have as most were awkwardly tucked in (lots of TV-folded silk) or odd in design.

5. Maybe 1 in 10 men in dinner jackets wore studs. The others were all in regularly buttoned shirts.

6. There was one other guest I saw with shawl lapels and he was easily 70.

7. Single-cuff shirts were nowhere to be seen. Everyone but me wore French cuffs. I didn't notice any barrel cuffs.

8. No matter what anybody says, there is a real advantage to a pique bib front and collar even if not starched. The heavier, highly textured fabric keeps the visible parts of the shirt looking flat and unwrinkled. When you don't have a long tie to cover things up, a regular shirt tends to look too rumpled.
post #103 of 139
foo you got any pics? would love to see them
post #104 of 139
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omar1223 View Post

foo you got any pics? would love to see them

We didn't bring a camera but lots of photos were taken. I will post one if I catch it on Facebook or if the bride and groom send me any of the formal shots I was in.
post #105 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

2. A cummerbund is useful even with a double-breasted dinner jacket. When sitting or dancing it's nice to have the option of unbuttoning the jacket.

Dancing with an unbuttoned DB jacket sounds like a recipe for disaster.
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