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BlackTieFoo: Shirt Studs and Other Fooish Contemplations - Page 5

post #61 of 138
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

As far as I know, wholecuts are not worn for black tie for the same reason they are not traditional for business - that is just the way it is. A lot of these rules are really conventions, which makes them more Rule than Principle. I think wholecuts were not in the shoe repertoire, or at least not much, around the turn of the Twentieth Century when these forms were getting established. This means they were not considered rather than rejected. But if you are looking at a list of what is appropriate, that amounts to the same thing.
If one were to focus on Principles rather than Rules, I think that polished calf or patent wholecuts would look great with black-tie.
I generally wear plain toe black calf oxfords, but also black calf and bow pumps. Not that any of this gets a whole lot of use.
My most recent black tie shirt is actually a plain white poplin with a covered placket and single link cuffs, turndown collar, but I also have a sheer voile with a pleated front.

I agree that wholecuts are no serious sin (unlike punch caps . . .), but they are also not perfectly correct and I have no more need for black wholecuts than I do for pumps, slippers, or a patent oxford. If I must buy a new pair of shoes specifically for black tie, I figure I might as well hew close to the established orthodoxy.

As of the moment, I'm deciding between the patent balmorals from Alden on the Plaza last, or the same shoe in regular black calf. Leaning toward the patent.

I briefly considered a covered placket but I wanted an excuse to get cool studs.
post #62 of 138
running the pique to the bottom of the shirt is just wrong. you don't need all that extra fabric in your trousers. Just enough to stay tucked in.
post #63 of 138
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

running the pique to the bottom of the shirt is just wrong. you don't need all that extra fabric in your trousers. Just enough to stay tucked in.

Well, it's moot since they're doing a normal bib that ends above the waist. I may get a cummerbund, though.
post #64 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Ah, forgot about Herzfeld--will definitely checkout.
The cufflinks are from a place called M.P. Levene. Anybody know anything about them?

I purchased a pair of silver and onyx cufflinks from them a few years ago and was very satisfied with the product and the service. It was a pleasure to do business with Colin Levene.
post #65 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Well, it's moot since they're doing a normal bib that ends above the waist. I may get a cummerbund, though.

A cummerbund with the DB?

Wouldn't it be more Neapolitan to get belt loops retrofitted, and then a wide patent leather belt, skipping the suspenders entirely?

confused.gif

Anyway, you seem all set. You'll look great and I'm sure you'll give a fine speech.
post #66 of 138
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaoHu View Post

I purchased a pair of silver and onyx cufflinks from them a few years ago and was very satisfied with the product and the service. It was a pleasure to do business with Colin Levene.

I've been dealing with Martin Levene. Also a real pleasure to work with. He really hustled to arrange for the studs to be done in time. I would have killed too much time trying to coordinate directly with the makers in Birmingham.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

A cummerbund with the DB?
Wouldn't it be more Neapolitan to get belt loops retrofitted, and then a wide patent leather belt, skipping the suspenders entirely?
confused.gif
Anyway, you seem all set. You'll look great and I'm sure you'll give a fine speech.

I'm tempted to get a cummerbund because it will look better if I do unbutton my jacket when sitting.
post #67 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I'm tempted to get a cummerbund because it will look better if I do unbutton my jacket when sitting.

I honestly would not worry about it.

When you're seated with your jacket on, you'll tend to be at the table or within rows of seats at which no one would see the gap between bib and pants (not there is a 0.001% chance that anyone would notice or care unless this is a wedding at which Manton is getting a second wife.) Otherwise, leave it buttoned if you're seated out in the open.

When you're standing with you jacket completely off and doing the Dougie, people should be in a mostly celebratory mood. They are more likely to attack you for the quality of your dancing than for the details of your dinner wear.
post #68 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

When you're standing with you jacket completely off and doing the Dougie, people should be in a mostly celebratory mood. They are more likely to attack you for the quality of your dancing than for the details of your dinner wear.

As long as his braces cover his nipples, otherwise, watch out!
post #69 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I might as well hew close to the established orthodoxy.

To me the double breasted shawl is a departure from orthodoxy [not usually seen], and so would be better complemented by pumps [also not usually seen]. The smoother definition of the pumps goes well with the shawl up north when the eyes look at the outfit.

The usual oxford style shoes with silk laces, in patent or high-shine calf leather, would showcase the fact that "Hey, I'm wearing a DB shawls instead of peaks."

I've been mulling over how to do semi-formal shoes with the JLP folks. They have convinced me that their high-shine calf is the way to go. The leather is just the right subtle shine, and I can wear them with suits too.

- M
post #70 of 138
I'm tempted to get a cummerbund because it will look better if I do unbutton my jacket when sitting.[/quote]

you should have had the pants made with a slightly higher satin waistband. that would have avoided the need for a cumberbund.

so are you facing the collar and cuffs with pique?
post #71 of 138
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

so are you facing the collar and cuffs with pique?

yes
post #72 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Also, I bet pleats are pain in the ass to iron right.

They are not too bad once you have them lined up right. That said, the pique front shirt is much easier to iron, but buckles stiffly and strangely should you slouch. Mine goes to the waist, too, not the hem.
post #73 of 138
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

They are not too bad once you have them lined up right. That said, the pique front shirt is much easier to iron, but buckles stiffly and strangely should you slouch. Mine goes to the waist, too, not the hem.

Yeah, I'm getting a little worried about the bib not behaving properly so I ordered a cummerbund from Naples. Hopefully that will help keep things in place.

For anyone interested, flat silk shoelaces from Cleverley are now 20 GBP(!!!).
post #74 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Yeah, I'm getting a little worried about the bib not behaving properly so I ordered a cummerbund from Naples. Hopefully that will help keep things in place.
For anyone interested, flat silk shoelaces from Cleverley are now 20 GBP(!!!).

For me, I find that the cummerbund doesn't really do much to control the shirt. It mainly hides the pants' waistband. My shirt also has a tab that you can attach to one of the buttons on the pants, but that doesn't help too much either.
post #75 of 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

For me, I find that the cummerbund doesn't really do much to control the shirt. It mainly hides the pants' waistband. My shirt also has a tab that you can attach to one of the buttons on the pants, but that doesn't help too much either.

Don't be such a pessimist.

With the piqué, cummerbund, and crossover from buttoning up the DB jacket, the get up will dispense with the any possible need for Spanx Shapewear for Men or even a Kevlar vest. If only Houdini had been so dressed...shame really.

Foofy: as long as you're getting a cummerbund, make sure that they put in the ticket pocket. It's typically on the right, hidden in the top fold.
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