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BlackTieFoo: Shirt Studs and Other Fooish Contemplations - Page 4

post #46 of 139
"Originally Posted by F. Corbera

Please do not get a four stud piqué front shirt. I'm surprised that you are getting marcella anyway. The point of marcella is to hold a lot of starch, and it seems a bit orthogonal to the soft, louche, smoking jacket-y, feel of your Ruby DB shawl...particularly since you argued Mr. Rubinacci into giving you a manica camicia on that dinner jacket . . ."


I agree compleatly - especially since, strictly speaking, traditonally, it is incorrect to wear a starched marcella shirt without the accompanying starched white waistcoat - the original set up, when the DJ was invented ( a very elegant set up, and the closest thing to White tie and Tails a man can wear!)

Yours being a DB, a waistcoat is of course out of the question so go pleated!
post #47 of 139
though vintage bib fronts stopped way above the pant line, this was because men either wore cummerbunds or a matched pique vest.

since you wont be wearing either, I suggest the pique stop underneath the waistband of your pants.
it looks odd seeing the end of the bib front peaking up above your waistband
I will assume that the pique is being placed on top of the body of the shirt, and that it will not be backed with lining to stiffen the front.

did you go with a voile body?
are you putting pique on the outside of the collar and cuff?
post #48 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

.

WTF? Are you Vox's brother or something?
post #49 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by idfnl View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

.

WTF? Are you Vox's brother or something?

Corbera and Vox form a single gestalt entity.
post #50 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

Corbera and Vox form a single gestalt entity.

More like low brow copycat
post #51 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

Are plain black wholecuts acceptable? I just think patent leather looks cheap, and pumps dont look masculine
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

. . . I've heard wholecuts are not acceptable, but don't really understand why. Perhaps the lack of a stitched vamp makes them look to casual.

As far as I know, wholecuts are not worn for black tie for the same reason they are not traditional for business - that is just the way it is. A lot of these rules are really conventions, which makes them more Rule than Principle. I think wholecuts were not in the shoe repertoire, or at least not much, around the turn of the Twentieth Century when these forms were getting established. This means they were not considered rather than rejected. But if you are looking at a list of what is appropriate, that amounts to the same thing.
If one were to focus on Principles rather than Rules, I think that polished calf or patent wholecuts would look great with black-tie.

I generally wear plain toe black calf oxfords, but also black calf and bow pumps. Not that any of this gets a whole lot of use.

My most recent black tie shirt is actually a plain white poplin with a covered placket and single link cuffs, turndown collar, but I also have a sheer voile with a pleated front.
post #52 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

though vintage bib fronts stopped way above the pant line, this was because men either wore cummerbunds or a matched pique vest.
since you wont be wearing either, I suggest the pique stop underneath the waistband of your pants.
it looks odd seeing the end of the bib front peaking up above your waistband
I will assume that the pique is being placed on top of the body of the shirt, and that it will not be backed with lining to stiffen the front.
did you go with a voile body?
are you putting pique on the outside of the collar and cuff?

What does it matter, if one assumes that a double breasted dinner jacket will not be unbuttoned these minor points are surely moot as they will never see the light of day until Foo disrobes, one hopes, in the comfort of his home and not in the public spotlight of the wedding party.
post #53 of 139
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/19/11 at 8:21pm
post #54 of 139
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/19/11 at 8:21pm
post #55 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

We're talking about mafoofan. After the first two glasses of champagne, both the jacket and the shirt are coming off.
It won't be completely obscene, though: those Thurstons are wide on the chest, so nipples will still be discreet.

Just as long as he keeps his bow tie on in homage to his favourite Chippendale dancer.
post #56 of 139
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thin White Duke View Post

What does it matter, if one assumes that a double breasted dinner jacket will not be unbuttoned these minor points are surely moot as they will never see the light of day until Foo disrobes, one hopes, in the comfort of his home and not in the public spotlight of the wedding party.

he does have to unbutton the DB jacket to sit down.
post #57 of 139
Is that not a sartorial faux pas on a DB? Pretty sure that was the consensus when it came up on here recently.
post #58 of 139
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/19/11 at 8:21pm
post #59 of 139
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/19/11 at 8:21pm
post #60 of 139
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/19/11 at 8:20pm
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