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First MC-approved suit and sport coat

post #1 of 13
10/15/11 at 8:19pm
Thread Starter 
I've got several "fashiony" suits by designers like Jil Sander, and I've got the right slim frame for it, so they look good on me, but I'm inspired by some of the WAYWRN threads, and I've decided I would like to have a suit and sport coat with normal size lapels and traditional fit and length that make me look like an adult. Assume I can spend up to roughly $2,500 on a suit, and $1,000 on a sport coat. What brands would you all recommend within this budget?

I suppose also that at this price range I am not far from saving up for a bespoke suit, so I'd appreciate opinions if people think I should just do that. I live in DC and I gather that Field would be the right tailor for that job.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 13
10/16/11 at 7:10am
With that budget, you can go custom, forget about brands.
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post #3 of 13
10/16/11 at 12:28pm
W.W. Chan are going to be in DC November 18 and 19. You might contact them about an appointment. They do excellent work and would be well within your budgetary constraints.
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post #4 of 13
10/16/11 at 5:31pm
Mr Ned? Martin Greenfield?
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post #5 of 13
10/16/11 at 6:24pm
If you have been into the fashion brands for suits, then why not hunt down the makers of the suits you already enjoy? They will almost certainly have more conservatively styled suits in their own RTW collections.
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post #6 of 13
10/16/11 at 6:35pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Klobber, but actually I don't think they do. As far as I know, Jil Sander has pretty much one standard cut that is very distinctive and slim (and which I do like). The other brand of suits that I have is Shipley & Halmos, and they DEFINITELY don't have anything close to traditional. Those are very slim, thin lapels, and short coats, and I wear them mainly on stage when I play music.
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post #7 of 13
10/16/11 at 6:43pm
etseq, don't take this wrong way - if you're coming here and posting clearly you're interested in clothes and at least have basic knowledge of what you're doing. But it might be kind of dangerous to start spending that much money on your first entries into more "grown up" MC - you might have a more successful final result if you start out with some lower-end trial balloons to see what you like? At the very least, spend a WHILE in a nice department store trying on many different styles to see how they look on you. When you go into the tailor's to bespeak something, it's hard to imagine how the final garment will fit on you, and whether you like it or not. Also without that much of a history of wearing stuff that's similar to what you want the tailor to create, it might be difficult to explain to him what exactly it is that you want. If you put yourself in the hands of Mr. Field, he will certainly make you a very nice garment. But again given that you are coming here, you have a mind of your own and your own particular tastes, so there's no guaranteeing that final garment will be something you really covet.
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post #8 of 13
10/16/11 at 6:53pm
Thread Starter 
Unbelragazzo, thank you, that's exactly the advice I was looking for. I didn't say I was intent on spending $2,500 on a suit, only that I could possibly spend "up to" that much. I would definitely want to make sure my eye was well-trained enough to converse intelligently with my tailor before embarking on bespoke.

So with that in mind, if anyone could recommend reliable brands I should be looking too, I would appreciate it.
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post #9 of 13
10/16/11 at 7:04pm
I'm not the most experienced person here by any stretch, but I'd say the main first decision you want to make is the kind of silhouette you're going for, which you can kind of (i'm sure people will jump all over me with various deviations and combinations of the three styles, but here I go) divide into three groups - 1) "Roman", epitomized by Brioni - strong square shoulders, tight waist, more "V" shaped 2) "English", more sloped shoulders, not quite so aggressive waist suppression, but still a clean chest...try Ralph Lauren 3) "Neapolitan" - every house has a different take, but if you look in the Rubinacci and the Napoli su Misura threads you'll get plenty of examples that most would consider emblematic of this style - very soft shoulders, with some drape in the chest, usually shorter and with wider lapels...in RTW, maybe try a Canali Kei jacket to get an idea.
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post #10 of 13
10/17/11 at 11:36am
Thread Starter 
Thanks Unbelragazzo. I think what I like is Neapolitan, and I definitely prefer a soft shoulder. I am partial to the way Phat Guido's suits fit, and he wears kind of a Neapolitan style, correct? (I could be wrong on this--taking a stab based on my limited knowledge). However, my body type is different than his (slim frame, big hips) so I have to research more what fit looks best for my body type.
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post #11 of 13
10/17/11 at 12:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by etseq View Post

Thanks Unbelragazzo. I think what I like is Neapolitan, and I definitely prefer a soft shoulder. I am partial to the way Phat Guido's suits fit, and he wears kind of a Neapolitan style, correct? (I could be wrong on this--taking a stab based on my limited knowledge). However, my body type is different than his (slim frame, big hips) so I have to research more what fit looks best for my body type.

PG's suits aren't really Neapolitan. Perhaps a few elements but largely not.
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post #12 of 13
10/17/11 at 12:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer07 View Post

PG's suits aren't really Neapolitan. Perhaps a few elements but largely not.

I'd say they're closer to Neapolitan than either of the other two general styles I described
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post #13 of 13
10/17/11 at 12:45pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I'd say they're closer to Neapolitan than either of the other two general styles I described

Yeah that's more what I was trying to say. I wasn't thinking he epitomized classic Neapolitan style or anything. If PG's style has a particular name I'd be interested in hearing more.
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