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Which of these 2 SC designs is more casual and more suitable with jeans ?

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 

HI 

 

I intend to get a very casual SC made for this winter to wear almost exclusively with jeans.

 

I find the 'SF approved' 3 patch pocket SC to be unsuitable with jeans and IMO it looks best with odd pants. I am sure that opinions of members with regard to previous sentence will be different and I respect that and I dont want to get into that discussion.  

 

Which of these 2 designs looks more casual to you ? I am thinking of getting one of these styles made in a mid weight tweed with elbow patches. I am also open to other suggestions.  

 

The designs that I am considering are 

 

1. 2 flap patch pockets and open patch breast pocket 

 

 

471769058_o.jpg

 

 

2. 2 bellow pockets and welt breast pocket with throat latch 

 

eBay Image Hosting at www.auctiva.com

 

 

 

Thanks and best regards

post #2 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_del View Post

I find the 'SF approved' 3 patch pocket SC to be unsuitable with jeans and IMO it looks best with odd pants. I am sure that opinions of members with regard to previous sentence will be different and I respect that and I dont want to get into that discussion.

You are aware then that both of your options feature front patch pockets with the only difference being the first has a patch breast pocket and the second has a standard besom breast pocket ... ?

I like the first option because it has a slimmer lapel and because the second option has buttons on the flapped patch pockets, which are bad enough without buttons. If you could find another version of #1 with patch pockets but no flaps I'd like it even more.
post #3 of 24
Thread Starter 

^^ "If you could find another version of #1 with patch pockets but no flaps I'd like it even more.'

 

Then they would become normal 3 patch pocket SCs so beloved of SF 

post #4 of 24
Strictly from a visual standpoint, number one looks more casual to me.

Not something I would ever wear, but to each his own.
post #5 of 24
#1 definitely.
post #6 of 24
Thread Starter 

What do you guys think of this ? I love it and would buy it were it for the gigantic lapels 

 

IMG_13241.jpg

post #7 of 24
I don't think bellows pockets look very good on most people. They are fine if you are out shooting and need them for your shells, but they draw too much attention to your hips. Go with #1.

By the way, if you want some extra detail, you might consider adding a pleat to each pocket including the chest pocket. I think it can be a nice touch with casual tweed and it doesn't stick out as much as the bellows style.

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post #8 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

I don't think bellows pockets look very good on most people. They are fine if you are out shooting and need them for your shells, but they draw too much attention to your hips. Go with #1.
By the way, if you want some extra detail, you might consider adding a pleat to each pocket including the chest pocket. I think it can be a nice touch with casual tweed and it doesn't stick out as much as the bellows style.
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I have a coat made-up in a heavy Lewis tweed that follows a similar pattern to jacket 2, i.e. SB, 1-button, bellows pockets, throat latch, etc. It's great paired with jeans or cords and I really enjoy wearing it, especially on a chilly autumn or early winter's day. However, I do think the point that PSG raised is a good one; I have at times felt that the bellows pockets do highlight the hips a tad more than I like. However, given that I have relatively broad shoulders, I think the overall visual effect on me is relatively balanced, and doesn't make me look pear-shaped. A safer option might be to make-up the coat as PSG suggests, with flapped patch pockets with some detailing, rather than the bellows pockets. However, perhaps you could work on the pocket details once you've gotten to the fitting stage? You could have them make-up the coat without pockets, and see what the visual effect of the silhouette looks like, etc. You might find that the bellow pockets, depending on the cut (e.g. degree of skirt flare, etc.) and your proportions look just fine on your frame. Or you might find that they don't suit you at all, and opt for less "showy" detailing. I suppose the beauty of bespoke is you can modify these details during the making process.
post #9 of 24
#1 looks very nice. I wouldn't do the ellbow patches you're considering.
post #10 of 24
Thread Starter 

^^ I am a big fan of your combinations of SC and jeans but I am looking for a look that it more casual that yours. More RRL look book and Borrelli look book. 

post #11 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_del View Post

^^ I am a big fan of your combinations of SC and jeans but I am looking for a look that it more casual that yours. More RRL look book and Borrelli look book. 


I think I understand what you mean. I think you can achieve that look without the patches, by choosing the right fabric (is the donegal for this jacket?), the 'pocket configuration' of the first jacket you showed, and by not making the jacket too long; I'd keep it on the short side. How about patches in the same fabric? More subtle than the Cucinelli look, but still an interesting and "casualizing" detail.
post #12 of 24
Thread Starter 

I am using the donegal for the standard 3 patch SC that I intend to wear with odd trousers. 

 

For this a rough herringbone as in the 3rd pic. I know you arent a fan of elbow patches but I dont mind them and I would be getting them on only one jacket. Rest all are normal. I am also getting the leather football buttons peepwall[1].gif

post #13 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_del View Post

rough herringbone

Excellent. Grey?

I'm not sure if I'd pick leather buttons*, but I can picture them in your jacket idea. Nice project.

* Come to think of it: do you remember the leather buttons on a jacket of member Cary Grant? Those were great.
post #14 of 24
Go for the elbow patches. They have been a common addition to tweed jackets since the 50's. I had a heavy corduroy jacket with them in the late 60's. Very trad and preppy.

Will you also get a throat latch? I would. But have it as a separate flap that is buttoned or sewn on and not just an extension of the collar.

How about leather buttons? They are most casual and fun.

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post #15 of 24
Well it looks like the Rugby one got sold, You buy it..? it was a XL (44), if it was a S or XS I would've bought it - too bad.

I think it looks good with jeans - then again any tweed/herringbone in a brown shade will look good - but I think it only does with Dark Blue jeans - Whereas a lighter colored blazer would look better on lighter blue jeans.
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