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Belt construction - what to look for.

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Title says it all.

When looking at a belt, what are the details to look for to ascertain its quality of construction and durability over the long haul? When worn properly, what are the common failure modes for a typical leather belt, and what details should I be looking for to understand whether the belt will forestall those failures for as long as possible?

I would like to leave style out of this discussion as much as possible. I also would prefer to leave brand out of it ("Joe Bootmaker's Belts are the best!") unless referencing the specific features that make them stand out. Lastly regarding material quality, it would be helpful to focus less on generalizations ("Joe Bootmaker uses high quality leather") and more on specific non-destructive tests of quality ("if you bend the belt at the store normally, and hold it up to the light, on a good quality belt you should see xxxxxxxxxx.")

I do not have much experience myself so I am unsure what to offer. I do know that leather tends to bend/wear and develop twists or kinks in various places, especially the part inserted into the buckle, over time. I also know that the holes run through the buckle can tend to stretch and wear a bit. I haven't had a belt fall apart due to stitching or glue failure or such, even in very cheap belts. Likewise I've never known a buckle to fall apart or detach in any way from the belt, again in very inexpensive belts, so I suspect the difference in durability between a $15 belt and a $150 belt is ultimately not going to be in the buckle area at all but in aspects related to the leather itself.

Presumably leather thickness and treatments play a role.

I have noticed that belts with one of those inner bands that adds thickness tends not to develop kinks. But they also tend to wear a bit more where the tail end meets the buckle.
post #2 of 4
If stitching present, then tight, by hand, aligned, and near the edges. Buckle not too heavy/large for the belt itself, with its securing mechanism to the belt adequate for its weight and size. Lining/backing (again, if present) of a quality and weight adequate to take the stitching and the belt overall. Point being that if hand stitching carried out, and carried out well, the maker is unlikely to bother with materials, incl. buckle, that do not approximate such an effort. I also look for symmetry at the end of the belt, where it begins the fastening mechanism. From a hardware/mechanical point of view, I look a bit at where and how the buckle fastens (or any other place where leather meets non-leather) to see how these wear points will hold up over time. I also find that if I would be tempted to wear the belt inside out - the lining showing, but say, without the markings - then chances are, the belt is good. Last, a look at the top and bottom edges of the belt, where the two surfaces are joined; if no care, treatment or attention here, then wear will be problematic.
post #3 of 4
Buckles are not all made the same. I have some $50 Banana republic belts that have worn plating on the buckle. They look terrible after a couple of years of use. Now I usually buy higher end belts.

Mim
post #4 of 4
I have designer suits, shoes, ties, and shirts. But when it comes to something as basic as a belt, all my belts cost $15-$40 and look and work great. I replace my belts maybe once a year or once every other year. The belt is not supposed to attract attention from the rest of my wardrobe, not sure who looks for that type of look with a suit, though.

If we're talking dress belts, all you need is plain black, plain brown, dark brown, etc. I'm not the type who buys expensive belts or under shirts or ridiculous things like that, but to each their own.
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