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Operation Cool or: how I learned to live without polyester lining in my seersucker coat

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
It all starts with a poor decision - to line a summer weight jacket with unbreathable polyester. Well I say NO!

I recently purchased a Bloomingdale's house brand seersucker suit for a very, very, very good price at the Outlet ($50 for the jacket, $20 for the pants) to wear - however it came quarter lined, which I could live with if it was a natural and breathable fabric but instead it is in polyester. What to do? Test wearing the jacket I could tell there was no way I was going to be able to wear it here in Miami without some way of restoring the breathability of the garment. Could the lining be removed?

At first I searched our forums where every thread was met with a "you'll ruin the coat" or "it's expensive" and I was a bit discouraged. Still, unless I was going to give up on the jacket I owed myself a bit more so I pulled it out of the closet and gave the lining a closer inspection. What I realized is that the sleeves could definitely be removed without harm and even a large section of the back lining could be trimmed down. Leaving a section to cover the shoulderpads and the portion that forms the interior pocket lining would really open the jacket up and should leave no visible signs to the observer even if the jacket is removed and put on the back of a chair or folder over. Fortunately the jacket was quarter lined so some of the interior is finished otherwise this would be far more work or less feasible.

Attached are pics of the finished work, please keep in mind I used my "cheap" tailor to do this work so it isn't the neatest but it was also just $35. He also took my cuffing of the sleeve end a bit literally, the end is sewn to the sleeve - I had just wanted the end itself hemmed, but still loose. Not a big deal, you have to look REALLY close to see the thread on the exterior of the sleeve, but not perfect either. You can see that the shoulderpad is exposed at the sleevehead which is fine & expected, it's not something that normally would be visible and so far test wearing the jacket there hasn't been a problem with it folding, ripping, etc. I also sewed some nice MOP buttons on in place of the ugly plastic ones originally equipped which I purchased off SF's B&S.

jacket.JPG 2270k .JPG file

This shows the section left in for the pocket lining and shoulder pad.

armhole.JPG 2362k .JPG file

Alternate view showing the shoulder area in more detail.

sleeve.JPG 2495k .JPG file

Sleeve end, done like a pant cuff for some reason...
post #2 of 6
Is the jacket shell and pants made also of polyester or other? If poly, you will probably be still too hot in it unless for cooler days.
I have a virtually unworn polyester seersucker suit from the late 1970's. Even up here in Toronto Canada it gets too hot to wear it, lining or no lining. Poly just doesn't breathe.
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
No, it's a pretty nice quality 100% cotton jacket (~$600 retail) and unlined pants.
post #4 of 6
It looks pretty good, especially for a $35 tailoring job. Not sure about unlined sleeves for function but only because I've never had them.
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
The unlined sleeves don't seem to a be an issue - when putting on the jacket my shirtsleeves just need a tug to pull them all the way out (and I do that with any jacket). Didn't notice any weirdness when removing the jacket like the sleeve being pulled inside-out. It's not as smooth as a lined sleeve but defintely not a showstopper either IMO.
post #6 of 6

I think it looks nice and since it is interior only, one shouldn't go crazy and pedantic about it. Of course it is better to have it done neat, but IMHO thermal comfort is primary issue.

I own a linen summer jacket, which unfortunately has 50% poly and 50% visoze lining. Even though it has only 50% poly, it is quite unbreathable and I hate that "cold sweat" feeling, even then it is not so warm outside. Encouraged by your results I will ask the tailor about partly removing it.

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