Originally Posted by
mgm9128 
Ate dinner at Daniel last night.
Canapes were a trio of beets. One with tuna, a puree, and another with something I can't remember. I have had beets as a part of the canapes twice here before, and remember being shocked how flavorful each bite was. Seasoned delicately, yet precisely, allowing the flavor of beets to linger. Additionally, a chilled crab salad with green apple, which, like the beets, had a sensational taste. Both were very refreshing; a nice way to start a meal.
I drank a 1998 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Riesling from Pfalz with my dinner.
First course was smoked sturgeon with caviar, purple potato, horseradish cream, and majii salad. Sturgeon prepared three ways: smoked, cured, and seared. The classic combination of smoked sturgeon with potato and caviar was really wonderful, and, for me, the standout of the three.
Then, out came what the menu called a "celebration" of white asparagus from Provence. A celebration, indeed, though, it was more like a religious experience. To the right, a chilled, velvety white soup with chive blossoms and prosciutto. This was so delicately seasoned and balanced, each spoonful better than the last. In the center were three, fat, spears of steamed white asparagus, the tips a faint purple. A rectangular bread tuille placed on top, herbs, almond oil, and sitting to the left a mustard dressing which I would describe as one of the greatest things I've tasted. It was almost like a broken hollandaise, with a stream of egg yolk in the center. The asparagus were sweet and succulent, with an earthiness that eludes any white asparagus I've tasted before. This was, without a question, the standout of the entire meal, and something I will remember for a long time.
Florida frog legs with variation of asparagus (green), favas, nettle peppercorn jus. This was pretty straightforward. Crispy "lollipop", along with a fricassee, which I believe was glazed lightly in chicken jus, with a few drops of sherry vinegar. A good use of seasoning, as frog can have the tendency of being rather bland. The asparagus were, again, really excellent. Served sauteed, shaved raw, and tempura battered. I like frog, so I enjoyed this dish.
Out next came a piece of cedar-wrapped, red king salmon, which was unveiled table side and placed atop a bed of lambs-quarters a la crème. To the right, an erect morel, stuffed with, I believe, more morels; a tempura battered "ring" of morel, and a lovely golden pomme duchesse. Served with a bourbon jus, which did not taste anything like bourbon. The salmon was cooked perfectly, but I missed anything that wrapping it in cedar did for the flavor, and the jus could have used a bit more fat. The little fried morel ring was awesome, and something I will probably try at home. A good dish, even though the salmon was a bit underwhelming.
Roasted veal tenderloin with artichoke barigoule (half of a baby poivrade sitting to the side).
Oregano braised cheeks with snow peas, sweetbreads, petit pois a la Française. The quality of the veal was phenomenal. I did not get the name of the farm, but I was told it was out of Colorado. The tenderloin was cooked sous vide, the cheeks braised in red wine until meltingly tender, and the sweetbread was poached in something miraculous before being dusted and fried crisp. The petit pois were vibrant and brought the dish alive. A very well balanced plate.
Lastly was a gorgeous, lacquered fillet of Liberty Farm duck breast; rhubarb, radishes, turnips, and a szechuan pepper jus. The garnish was extremely well composed. A complete balance of acidity and sweetness, very good range of textures, and elements hidden amongst the dish that felt akin to foraging for flavors (a little gem of blanched (or pickled) ginger, wrapped in what I believe was a thin shaving of radish, reminiscent of gari, and a pleasantly sweet, rhubarb compote beneath the breast). But, more than just the garnish, the quality of the duck itself is what really carried this dish above and beyond.
Cheese and a few really beautiful stalks of mache to round things out. The Époisses was excellent.
The service was flawless, as usual. This is how fine dining should be. And while I enjoyed EMP, I can't quite fathom how it is even considered in the same league as Daniel.
