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First visit with bespoke tailor on Saturday - Novice who doesn't know what to ask / look for

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 

I've been lurking here for almost a year, and I've used a lot of the great knowledge to net some great clothes. Now, I'm about to embark on making the big buy.

 

I refresh my work wardrobe about once every 2.5 years, except suits, which last longer. I am an attorney in Tennessee. I wear suits to work most every day. I'm not a trend chaser, but I'm also not a completely conservative/old school dresser. I'd like to think I am understatedly fashion-forward - with the small details conveying a sense of fashion (if that makes sense).

 

My problem with suits and shirts has generally been a combination of where I live (not a lot of great tailoring around here) and my shape (off the rack suits require a lot of tailoring to make fit well). I'm about 5'7". My jacket size is something between 39 and 40 and my waist is something between 29 and 30. I have a longer than average torso and a short inseam (~28 or 29).

 

[UPDATED TITLE AND FIRST POST - Found a tailor here and looking for advice for the first visit].

 

Thanks,


Wad

 

 

 

 


Edited by wad06 - 10/6/11 at 8:44am
post #2 of 16

I personally think bespoke is the way to go and that Hong Kong tailor is pretty good, had a few suits done by them. I'd rather shell out a few extra bucks knowing I can really get what I paid for than most off the rack.

post #3 of 16
Thread Starter 

So, I actually found a bespoke tailor here in town. I have an appointment on Saturday.

 

I'm going into this as a novice. I'm not sure what my big questions should be and what I should be looking for to see if he's good. Any advice for a first visit with a tailor would be much appreciated.

 

Wad

post #4 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by wad06 View Post

So, I actually found a bespoke tailor here in town.


I've not heard of a bespoke tailor in Tennessee...can you share with us the name of the tailor?
post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 

Sam at British Custom Tailors. I got the recommendation from a client of mine. He and I spoke on the phone for quite some time yesterday.

 

Everyone else I spoke to in town just took measurements and sent them to an off-site suit maker.

 

Wad

post #6 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by wad06 View Post

So, I actually found a bespoke tailor here in town. I have an appointment on Saturday.

 

I'm going into this as a novice. I'm not sure what my big questions should be and what I should be looking for to see if he's good. Any advice for a first visit with a tailor would be much appreciated.

 

Wad


My advice would be to ask to see samples of his work. If you like his style, then I would just communicate to him how you'd like it to fit (slim or not) and then leave everything in his hands except for basic details like what style lapel, number of buttons, vents, etc. If you don't know much about the process, you'll have to trust the judgement of the tailor, who is a professional.

But if you don't like what you see as far as samples, then I would back away slowly. If you don't know how to communicate precisely what you want and his style doesn't suit yours, you will be in for a world of pain.
post #7 of 16
I would suggest trying to locate people who have had custom suits made at this shop. I's also want to know exactly what is done by Sam himself, versus an on-site employee, versus sending it out to a cut, make, and trim (CMT) shop etc.

Find out if he does a basted fitting....coat as well as trousers. If so, does he then do a "forward fitting". Basically, ask him what the entire process consists of.

The only reason I'm making these suggestions is that many tailors call themselves bespoke tailors when in fact, they are not. If you search the forums here you will find them littered with the corpses of what started out to be a bespoke suit. You seem to be involved in your first custom suit, and as such, some caution would be prudent.
Edited by mlongano - 10/6/11 at 12:17pm
post #8 of 16
search on this site for people's experiences with other bespoke shops. It'll give you an idea of what the experience can feel like (good or bad) and maybe some of the things they wish they'd thought of before.

also, look through what you have versus the WAYW thread and go in with a few ideas of specific pieces you'd like to have made with a number of the major features addressed. If you don't tell them how you want X detail, they'll just make it up.
post #9 of 16
Please keep us updated! Somehow I'm skeptical that there's full bespoke going on in Franklin, TN, but if it's true I might have to check it out!
post #10 of 16
Thread Starter 

Well, the initial meeting seemed to go well. I was a little surprised by his prices (seemed low). But, he took about half an hour with me on material. Then, he spent another half hour or so on measuring. He asked a lot of questions. He mentioned that there wasn't much demand for bespoke suits in middle TN, and that he really only has three male clients that use that service these days - he said five years ago, he couldn't count the number of people that came in (the rest of his work is alterations).

 

Anyway, we ended up deciding on the following:

 

1) 11 oz, super 120, wool/cashmere blend, charcoal fabric (forgot the name of the fabric house); 

 

2) 3 inch, notched lapels with a working button hole on left;

 

3) slanted pockets and ticket pocket;

 

4) double vented (he really wanted no vent, but I really wanted double vented);

 

5) slimmer fit on the jacket;

 

6) surgeon cuffs; and 

 

7) flat-front, slightly tapered pants with button holes on both back pockets; two side pockets; with a watch pocket on the inside.

 

That's all I can remember right now. It just occurred to me that we did not pick a lining. Any thoughts on the color of lining for a dark, charcoal suit?

 

The basted fitting will be in two weeks, and he thinks the suit will be ready two weeks after that.

 

Thanks for the help with this.

 

Wad

 

 

post #11 of 16
The fact that your tailor wanted to make a ventless jacket makes me question the likelihood of his making you a modern-looking suit.
post #12 of 16
Who is doing the work and where is the work being performed?
post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 

He is doing the work, and it is being performed in the back of his shop.

 

Wad

post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by wad06 View Post

Sam at British Custom Tailors. I got the recommendation from a client of mine. He and I spoke on the phone for quite some time yesterday.

 

Everyone else I spoke to in town just took measurements and sent them to an off-site suit maker.

 

Wad


HA!!! thats my tailor. Sam does great work. Ive talked to him about doing a bespoke coat for me coming up in a few months. he does almost all of my work now. that guy is a talker! haha.
post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by bleachboy View Post

Please keep us updated! Somehow I'm skeptical that there's full bespoke going on in Franklin, TN, but if it's true I might have to check it out!

he does bespoke. sam has been my tailor for a long time...does great work, but you have to be willing to wait. He gets a ton of work in and is usually a day late with stuff. Hes great though. Great guy, and always keeps me there a long time chatting.
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