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Newbie buying suits on a time crunch; lots of questions inside

post #1 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:13pm
Thread Starter 

Hi everyone.

 

I know everyone says to look for sales when buying a suit. I am operating under a bit of a time crunch here so that isn't really an option. I will be starting a new job in about four weeks. I don't have the time to be hunting around for sales. 

 

My new job will require that I wear a suit every day. Currently, I only wear a suit to job interviews. I only have two suits. Both are 3-button Hugo Boss suits that I bought sophomore year of college, one grey and one blue. I'm currently 26 and will be working on Wall Street. 

 

My measurements: 40'' chest, 30'' waist, 5'11'' tall; 155 lb

 

Most jackets look silly on me because my waist is so much narrower than my chest. 

 

With all this said, I have a few questions I hope the gurus here can help me with:

 

1) If I'm going to be wearing a suit every day, what would be an appropriate number of suits to have in my closet? I know this is probably subjective but help me out here.

2) I find it really hard to find clothes that fit. Where in Chicago should I go suit shopping? I want something that will flatter my slim frame but I don't want a "style suit" and I want something well constructed that will hold up for years but in terms of construction and style. I want to look sexy but not out of place for the office. 

3) What brands should I look for? Should I just trust the sales associate's judgment?

4) How much should I be prepared to spend per suit, given this? I realize that I might be looking at things backwards here but I really have no basis for reference. Again, I'm new at this, help me out.

5) As a man who is beginning to build out his wardrobe, what additional colors/patterns besides the traditional charcoal and navy should I consider? I am white with green eyes and blondish-brown hair.

 

What other advice should you give and what should I be aware of? 

 

Thanks everyone.

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post #2 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:19pm
well, without a price range, its difficult to say where you should be looking.

I'd say the folks at brooks brothers could accomodate you with their slimmest line (milano or something I think). Your friend hugo boss also makes slim fiting suits, but the quality is not up to SF standards, especially for the price.

You could also take a look at the benjamin sartorial line at ehaberdasher.

If all you want is decent looking and slim fit, you could spend as little as $350 and as much as $3500 OTR.

If you are wearing a suit 5 days a week, I'd say you need at least 4 suits. I wear suits at least 4 days a week and have about 14 or so that I wear with regularity.

Beyond blue and gray, you have your obvious pinstripes. I have a nice brown windowpane, but thats a bit casual for the wall street folk. You can expand to lighter grays. I'd say 80% of my suits are some shade of blue, grey or charcoal. just the way it is.

welcome to the street btw.
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post #3 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:22pm
Thread Starter 

I won't cry if I have to spend $1,000 per but I don't want to spend much more than that. 

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post #4 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slprns View Post

My measurements: 40'' chest, 30'' waist, 5'11'' tall; 155 lb

 

Most jackets look silly on me because my waist is so much narrower than my chest.

Make sure the jacket fits you as well as possible, then have the pants slimmed.
Brooks Brothers Milano or Fitzgerald lines may indeed be what you are looking for as stated above. I would also agree you should have 4-5 suits.
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post #5 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:33pm
Thread Starter 

For someone like me what do you think about the single pleat vs flat front?

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post #6 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:40pm
single pleat or flat front are fine. Maybe a few of each.

You should be able to get near a bb black fleece for $1k
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post #7 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slprns View Post

For someone like me what do you think about the single pleat vs flat front?


I like pleats but most young slim guys still lean toward flat front. The BB suits are usually ~1K but a lot of them are on sale for 2 for $1600 right now. Get the credit card for another 10% off and pay it off before you are hit with the ridiculous interest.
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post #8 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:44pm
BB black fleece may be short and not conservative enough for him given his frame but try it as long as your bb
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post #9 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post

You should be able to get near a bb black fleece for $1k

Black Fleece is probably a little trendier than what he's looking for.
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post #10 of 21
10/2/11 at 4:47pm
always possible. Best advice is just to try them on.

Also, I would buy only a few suits now. Once you've started working, see if your company offers the corporate BB discount. I believe its about 15%.
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post #11 of 21
10/2/11 at 6:26pm
Thread Starter 

Will BB suits really be able to accentuate my waist? I don't want something boxy. Also, I'd ideally like something that doesn't accentuate my shoulders so much.

 

I really like the suits that Jimmy Fallon wears (Tom Ford) although those are obviously outside my price range.

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post #12 of 21
10/2/11 at 6:45pm
what you are talking about in terms of waist suppression will be very hard to find off the rack. You'll need a tailor to suppress the waist most likely. This shouldn't take long or cost too much
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post #13 of 21
10/2/11 at 6:49pm
Thread Starter 

Well I would of course have BB perform alterations... would anything else be necessary to take in the waist and have it look good with the Milano/Fitz suits?

 

Should I not have the waist taken in at BB?

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post #14 of 21
10/2/11 at 7:10pm
I personally don't like the shoulders of Brooks Brothers suits, but that's probably not much of a concern for you. That might be the best option.
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post #15 of 21
10/2/11 at 7:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slprns View Post

Well I would of course have BB perform alterations... would anything else be necessary to take in the waist and have it look good with the Milano/Fitz suits?

 

Should I not have the waist taken in at BB?


If you have a 40" chest and 30" waist you are going to have a hard time with most OTR suits. In the world of men's suits the difference between chest and waist size is referred to as 'drop'.

The most common drop amounts are more in the 6" -8" range. Thus you will find 40" coats will usually be matched with trousers that are about 34". It is very difficult to take in a 34" waist down to 30" without destroying the trousers - mostly in terms of pocket spacing. I believe the general rule of thumb is any trouser that needs to be taken in more than 2" is likely to be a no go????? You need to look for 'athletic cut' suits. Or perhaps suiting separates.

Get to the stores and try on a lot of suits. Don't even think about buying more than one to two until you are certain the ones you have are right for you. There are no shortcuts to getting to know your body and what fits you.

Congratulations on your new job!
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