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The Shell Cordovan, non-Alden Shoe and Boot Thread - Page 126

post #1876 of 3036
Quote:
 


How do you all suppose that "pointed cap" might look with just a touch of broguing...?

 

One thing to consider. If a manufacturer doesn't have a pattern for something--say a pointed toe cap--it's possible that they would make a new pattern for you, but also possible that they would slightly mess up the proportions. It's unlikely that they would nail it on the first try, and also unlikely that they would make multiple prototypes for a one-off boot order. I'd look for examples online and if they've already made it say, "make it like this" or ask if they have any examples they can show you that you could approve of. I know that a cap toe that's a little too long or a little too short can really mess up the way a shoe looks.

 

Another thing to think about is how the shell rolls. Mine crease right behind the cap and it looks good. If the cap extended back farther, would the rolls develop better? Worse? I don't know, but something else to consider.

post #1877 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Varnu View Post

One thing to consider. If a manufacturer doesn't have a pattern for something--say a pointed toe cap--it's possible that they would make a new pattern for you, but also possible that they would slightly mess up the proportions. It's unlikely that they would nail it on the first try, and also unlikely that they would make multiple prototypes for a one-off boot order. I'd look for examples online and if they've already made it say, "make it like this" or ask if they have any examples they can show you that you could approve of. I know that a cap toe that's a little too long or a little too short can really mess up the way a shoe looks.

Another thing to think about is how the shell rolls. Mine crease right behind the cap and it looks good. If the cap extended back farther, would the rolls develop better? Worse? I don't know, but something else to consider.

Excellent points. I think it may be best to stick with the Bowery design. It is quite lovely as it is.

Tell me did you have yours made lined? I am curious about the pros and cons of going fully lined vs only lining the toe box.
post #1878 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post


Excellent points. I think it may be best to stick with the Bowery design. It is quite lovely as it is.

Tell me did you have yours made lined? I am curious about the pros and cons of going fully lined vs only lining the toe box.

 

I didn't specify, but they are unlined except the toe-box and forefoot. I probably would have asked for lined if I'd thought too hard about it, but I think unlined is the default and the ankle rolls have really developed in a way I like and that I haven't seen on my lined shell Trickers or Enzo Bonafes. No impact on comfort, in fact I may prefer it if anything.

post #1879 of 3036
Stumbled on this thread and 45 minutes later.......oh well. Picked these up from a fellow member. Rider MTO alpine grain shell.....




Very pleased.
post #1880 of 3036
Killer. I wonder if the leather was sourced from Horween. Do you know?
post #1881 of 3036

I've never known Horween to do pebbled cordovan. But anything is possible I suppose.

post #1882 of 3036

It's Horween. It's stamped the same way regular scotchgrain calf is. Ron has commented he could probably source more if he wanted to, although how that would hold up with the 'shell shortage' I don't know.

post #1883 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post

Killer. I wonder if the leather was sourced from Horween. Do you know?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

I've never known Horween to do pebbled cordovan. But anything is possible I suppose.

Thanks. TBH, I really don't know for sure, but my assumption was/is horween. The density of the shell on these is unlike any I've ever handled. Almost feels like they would float on water.

Edit - confirmed horween shell. One-off MTO from a retailer name Franco's. Shoes roughly 5 years old.
Edited by Shawnc - 12/15/15 at 1:09pm
post #1884 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnc View Post


Thanks. TBH, I really don't know for sure, but my assumption was/is horween. The density of the shell on these is unlike any I've ever handled. Almost feels like they would float on water.

Edit - confirmed horween shell. One-off MTO from a retailer name Franco's. Shoes roughly 5 years old.

Yeah Ron told me himself it was Horween.

Check out Ashland Leather for some more examples of grain shell (they sometimes have wallets).
post #1885 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

I've never known Horween to do pebbled cordovan. But anything is possible I suppose.

It was never common, but horween pebbled cordovan is/ was definitely available. I had a pair Alden longwings made from it for example.
post #1886 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnc View Post



Thanks. TBH, I really don't know for sure, but my assumption was/is horween. The density of the shell on these is unlike any I've ever handled. Almost feels like they would float on water.

Edit - confirmed horween shell. One-off MTO from a retailer name Franco's. Shoes roughly 5 years old.


That high density shell cordovan is how I would describe my shells that are from almost every other maker.

 

I just started wearing a pair of cordovan high boots from CJ and they are ridiculously thick.

 

I got a pair of Carmina Cognac PTB's that are like thick rubber.

 

That is the way shell cordovan was originally intended to be.

post #1887 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watchman1 View Post


That high density shell cordovan is how I would describe my shells that are from almost every other maker.

I just started wearing a pair of cordovan high boots from CJ and they are ridiculously thick.

I got a pair of Carmina Cognac PTB's that are like thick rubber.

That is the way shell cordovan was originally intended to be.

All of that is from Horween. The makers might be dying but aren't changing the thickness.
post #1888 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by makewayhomer View Post


All of that is from Horween. The makers might be dying but aren't changing the thickness.


Right.  But, we don't know what the various makers are doing to the shells post tannery.

 

That was what Skip strongly insinuated when I spoke with him about this matter.

post #1889 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watchman1 View Post


Right.  But, we don't know what the various makers are doing to the shells post tannery.

That was what Skip strongly insinuated when I spoke with him about this matter.

What are the possibilities even? That they are cutting them in half or something? I don't understand the insinuation.
post #1890 of 3036
Quote:
Originally Posted by makewayhomer View Post


What are the possibilities even? That they are cutting them in half or something? I don't understand the insinuation.


IDK to be honest.

 

The finishing processes are proprietary for every maker and they are not willing to reveal their secrets.

 

So, it remains a bit of a mystery.

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