IDK, but myself and others suspect that there has been some sort of jumbling around with the sizing...
Exactly what and to what degree?
None of us really know.
Chip - check out the link - there are 4 active MTO's that are utilizing it. If you want to join any of them just add your info to that sheet:
Hey Joe, long time no read....
If what you say is true, then how do you explain this:
^^^Both of those are Wingtip derbies made by CJ. Both are made with Horween Shell Cordovan. Both are for RL. Same size. But, vastly different shades. As different as classic cigar and ravello.
There most certainly has been many shifts in the way CJ makes their cordovan shoes for RL and also the shade of shell cordovan they use over the years.