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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren Cordovan (Marlow, Darlton, Gifford, Garran, Lindrick, McCallum, Rhett)
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Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren Cordovan (Marlow, Darlton, Gifford, Garran, Lindrick, McCallum,... - Page 168

post #2506 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiredandTired View Post

Received my Marlow wingtips today as well.  Experiencing the same as you gsgleason.  The heel does indeed create a pivot point.  I assume over time the heel will flatten and this will become less noticeable.  I am on the fence about whether or not to return these, as I have a very small bit of heel slip on right, and a bit more on the left.  As a comparison, AE 5 last fits me almost perfect after break in, but it is an overall narrower last.  The Marlows off the bat are more comfortable, more room across the vamp, not excessively so.  The length going TTS in my US size is just right, I do not think I could size down a half size without having issues in the toe box.

 

I guess the ultimate question is, will the slight amount of heel slip disappear after break in?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  The sizing on these things is really YMMV.  Too bad the local RL store didn't have my sizes in stock to try on to compare.

 

Thanks

 

I assume both these issues would get better as the sole breaks in over time. It's quite stiff at first but should get looser eventually. 

post #2507 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsgleason View Post

I just received some Marlow wingtips from the 25% sale. Unfortunately they've already been packaged up and are on their way back. Here is why:

On both shoes, if the heel is on a flat surface, the lowest part of the sole is about a quarter inch elevated. This creates a pivot point at the front of the heel piece that puts a lot of weight all at that point, which is not comfortable at all.

I've had the odd shoe or two like this before which is a defect, but in this case it's exactly the same on BOTH shoes!

Is this typical of C&J construction?



Not sure i understand. Pictured from foreground to back: carmina, marlow, allen edmonds. The picture is a bad iPad picture but it would show that all the heels are pitched from front to back (the back part of the heel is elevated and does not contact the ground). Doesn't bother me, they all fit and feel great.

Edited to add: the AE and marlows have heel taps so it is not that they are worn down. Also, the tap is not holding the shoe up, it is not contacting my desk (in this case). And the carminas have less than 5 days of walking outside on them so that heel is pristine as well.
post #2508 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by mediahound View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiredandTired View Post

Received my Marlow wingtips today as well.  Experiencing the same as you gsgleason.  The heel does indeed create a pivot point.  I assume over time the heel will flatten and this will become less noticeable.  I am on the fence about whether or not to return these, as I have a very small bit of heel slip on right, and a bit more on the left.  As a comparison, AE 5 last fits me almost perfect after break in, but it is an overall narrower last.  The Marlows off the bat are more comfortable, more room across the vamp, not excessively so.  The length going TTS in my US size is just right, I do not think I could size down a half size without having issues in the toe box.

 

I guess the ultimate question is, will the slight amount of heel slip disappear after break in?  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  The sizing on these things is really YMMV.  Too bad the local RL store didn't have my sizes in stock to try on to compare.

 

Thanks

 

I assume both these issues would get better as the sole breaks in over time. It's quite stiff at first but should get looser eventually. 


+1, The heel slip will definitely improve as the very stiff leather sole breaks in.  It's very common to have heel slippage with any double leather sole brand new out of the box.

post #2509 of 6133
I am a TTS 9D, and I went with a 8.5 in the Marlow Wingtips - They were a little snug (perhaps even very snug) but I'm hoping that as my foot sinks into the footbed and the leather lets out ever so slightly that I'll be in better shape...
post #2510 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by david3558 View Post

I am a TTS 9D, and I went with a 8.5 in the Marlow Wingtips - They were a little snug (perhaps even very snug) but I'm hoping that as my foot sinks into the footbed and the leather lets out ever so slightly that I'll be in better shape...

Think maybe you should have gone tts? I'm a 13D and trying these on (in a 13D) with very thin socks felt pretty much perfect. I'm pretty sure a 1/2 size down would have been too painful...
post #2511 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReppTiePrepster View Post


+1, The heel slip will definitely improve as the very stiff leather sole breaks in.  It's very common to have heel slippage with any double leather sole brand new out of the box.

Marlow wingtips are much more substantial in materials than I thought. The cordovan leather is much stiffer out of the box than I expected, combined with the heavier double oak sole. For comparison I have wolverine 744 ltds, which were had more supple leather out of the box and a single oak butyl sole.

I would like to see if the local Ralph Lauren would be a able to order a half size lower for me to try on in store, and do an exchange then and there, but I'm not even sure if they are allowed to do that.
post #2512 of 6133
I have a feeling that you would need to buy it and have it sent to the store as a separate transaction, or return and wait for them to confirm then ship the new size. I think there are a couple of SA on this thread that can confirm though.
post #2513 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiredandTired View Post

Marlow wingtips are much more substantial in materials than I thought. The cordovan leather is much stiffer out of the box than I expected, combined with the heavier double oak sole.

I would like to see if the local Ralph Lauren would be a able to order a half size lower for me to try on in store, and do an exchange then and there, but I'm not even sure if they are allowed to do that.
I think with the RL wingtips your noticing the quality of construction which is starting to approach the upper end of mass produced ready-made footwear. My admiration for these C&J shoes is growing each time I wear them. When it comes to sizing I got a great tip from fellow SF member "phorm". I ordered both tts and a half size down.
post #2514 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by david3558 View Post

I am a TTS 9D, and I went with a 8.5 in the Marlow Wingtips - They were a little snug (perhaps even very snug) but I'm hoping that as my foot sinks into the footbed and the leather lets out ever so slightly that I'll be in better shape...

I am the same, and the 8.5 is snug, but not uncomfortably so.
post #2515 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winston S. View Post

I am the same, and the 8.5 is snug, but not uncomfortably so.

I am a TTS 10D and Namor advised me to go to a 9.5D and it was tight at first but they are very comfortable and I could be in them for a majority of the day
post #2516 of 6133
I always equate the discussion on Marlow wingtips as a passage of Spring (similar to the Masters golf tourney) due to RL sale dates....carry on gents
post #2517 of 6133
Is there a current sale code going on right now? If so, how can I get the sale price?
post #2518 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeharo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsgleason View Post

I just received some Marlow wingtips from the 25% sale. Unfortunately they've already been packaged up and are on their way back. Here is why:

On both shoes, if the heel is on a flat surface, the lowest part of the sole is about a quarter inch elevated. This creates a pivot point at the front of the heel piece that puts a lot of weight all at that point, which is not comfortable at all.

I've had the odd shoe or two like this before which is a defect, but in this case it's exactly the same on BOTH shoes!

Is this typical of C&J construction?



Not sure i understand. Pictured from foreground to back: carmina, marlow, allen edmonds. The picture is a bad iPad picture but it would show that all the heels are pitched from front to back (the back part of the heel is elevated and does not contact the ground). Doesn't bother me, they all fit and feel great.

Edited to add: the AE and marlows have heel taps so it is not that they are worn down. Also, the tap is not holding the shoe up, it is not contacting my desk (in this case). And the carminas have less than 5 days of walking outside on them so that heel is pristine as well.

Thanks for the picture. I guess I should have taken a picture before shipping them back. I did order another pair yesterday since the sale was still on, so when I get them I will post results.

Depending on how the shoe sits on the surface, a little elevation on the back of the heel is normal. This issue is that it's more pronounced than that. If I hold the heel down against the flat surface, the lowest part of the sole is over 1/4 inch elevated, creating much more of a pivot and a noticeable amount of pressure at the front of my heel.
post #2519 of 6133
I just got my Marlows in the mail direct from RL - beauties I say. The double leather sole is pretty intense, heel slip for days thanks to the stiffness. I can't wait to get them broken in.

I actually went 8.5 for these bad boys, that's half size down. Definitely smaller than the 8.5 Barrie overall but it fits more like a glove, I know once the foot settles into the footbed it'll feel a lot better. Heel is annoyingly wide just like the Barrie but not AS wide.
post #2520 of 6133

If you want a fit close to Barrie last, size up from Barrie. In fact my 8.5D Marlows are actually still a bit smaller than my 8D Barrie LWBs. 

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