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The Official Tweed Appreciation Thread - Page 114

post #1696 of 2005
I am awaiting a Mears jacket this week. When it shows up I'll post pics with a report. As for Tweed Addict, I inquired about the construction of one of the jackets they had on sale. Here is the reply I received: "The jacket has a fused construction. We do offer fully canvassed jackets for our made to measure. I wouldn't use a fused construction with a fine suiting cloth, but for tweeds like this is doesn't seem so important"

I'm relatively new to the tweed thing, but I was immediately turned off by the fused construction. If my judgement is in error, someone, please let me know.
post #1697 of 2005

Fusing has a terrible reputation among the iGentry but more technologically educated folk within the trade consider the hue and cry overstated.  Yes, when fusing came out right after WWII it was pretty nasty but consider how much improvement there has been in other new technologies that have come out since then.  No, fusing will not ever replace fine canvassing, at least in the foreseeable future.  However, the fact that a jacket is fused should not always generate disgust and revulsion.  You have to personally examine the product, try it on, and such.  If you can afford to experiment, get one, have it altered and wear it for a while.  You may decide to be a purist and that's fine.  However, if you can get a good-looking, reasonably priced jacket that fits and wears well but just happens to be fused how are you damaged?

post #1698 of 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlSarge View Post
 

Fusing has a terrible reputation among the iGentry but more technologically educated folk within the trade consider the hue and cry overstated.  Yes, when fusing came out right after WWII it was pretty nasty but consider how much improvement there has been in other new technologies that have come out since then.  No, fusing will not ever replace fine canvassing, at least in the foreseeable future.  However, the fact that a jacket is fused should not always generate disgust and revulsion.  You have to personally examine the product, try it on, and such.  If you can afford to experiment, get one, have it altered and wear it for a while.  You may decide to be a purist and that's fine.  However, if you can get a good-looking, reasonably priced jacket that fits and wears well but just happens to be fused how are you damaged?

:nodding:

post #1699 of 2005
I've got one tweed so far - a dark grey herringbone. I'm wanting to commission a second. Any suggestions? I was thinking brown (no pattern) patch pocket with leather "football" buttons.
post #1700 of 2005
Quote:
 

I am awaiting a Mears jacket this week. When it shows up I'll post pics with a report. As for Tweed Addict, I inquired about the construction of one of the jackets they had on sale. Here is the reply I received: "The jacket has a fused construction. We do offer fully canvassed jackets for our made to measure. I wouldn't use a fused construction with a fine suiting cloth, but for tweeds like this is doesn't seem so important"

I'm relatively new to the tweed thing, but I was immediately turned off by the fused construction. If my judgement is in error, someone, please let me know.

 

Will be looking forward to your report on Mears. I've been in contact with them and they give prompt replies and I think they reflect genuine care for the customer.

Tweed Addict hasn't responded yet...

post #1701 of 2005

 I found an awesome Harris Tweed jacket yesterday at a local Goodwill for nine bucks. I think it fits me perfectly! I may have to get the sleeves altered a bit but otherwise it fits nicely. It smelled kind of stale but I'm also getting it drycleaned this week. It may be a candidate for the "Fabrique" treatment too. I put it in the freezer overnight to get rid of any critters that may have been in the fabric.

 

 It's a dark brown tweed with a subtle windowpane pattern in it. The fabric is pretty heavy and "scratchy"would be a good word to describe it. I will post pics when I get back from the cleaners/tailor.

post #1702 of 2005
OlSarge, thanks for the words of wisdom.

Gbgbrouge, I, too, was impressed with Mears' prompt and thorough replies. In addition, I wanted them to use a fabric from a supplier they had never dealt with. It wasn't an issue at all. Now all I need is to receive the jacket. As I said previously, it should be here this week, just in time for tweed wearing weather.
post #1703 of 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by velomane View Post

OlSarge, thanks for the words of wisdom.

Gbgbrouge, I, too, was impressed with Mears' prompt and thorough replies. In addition, I wanted them to use a fabric from a supplier they had never dealt with. It wasn't an issue at all. Now all I need is to receive the jacket. As I said previously, it should be here this week, just in time for tweed wearing weather.

 

 

Sounds good, let us know how you get on. Its always great to find out about new or lesser known makers.  

post #1704 of 2005

a link to canvas and suit construction

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/269171/canvas-and-suit-construction

 

I have recently received a 3 piece from Tweed Addict. They're a small outfit, so communication may sometimes be slow but i've never had a problem yet, quite the opposite. I also have a new commission outstanding with them that should be ready in a few weeks.

 

I do not know if my 3 piece is fused or not, i've tried the "peel test" but my results were inconclusive. To be honest the jacket has enough structure and shape as it is, if this is fused, I simply don't care, i'm happy.

post #1705 of 2005
Can't believe I just found this thread, amazing stuff!
post #1706 of 2005
Can't believe I just found this thread, amazing stuff!
post #1707 of 2005

Brooks Brothers tweed jacket, shirt, and tie, Dunn & Co doeskin vest, Hermes pocket square, Polo Ralph Lauren embroidered cord trousers, and Allen Edmonds Ridgeways.....

post #1708 of 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlSarge View Post
 

Fusing has a terrible reputation among the iGentry but more technologically educated folk within the trade consider the hue and cry overstated.  Yes, when fusing came out right after WWII it was pretty nasty but consider how much improvement there has been in other new technologies that have come out since then.  No, fusing will not ever replace fine canvassing, at least in the foreseeable future.  However, the fact that a jacket is fused should not always generate disgust and revulsion.  You have to personally examine the product, try it on, and such.  If you can afford to experiment, get one, have it altered and wear it for a while.  You may decide to be a purist and that's fine.  However, if you can get a good-looking, reasonably priced jacket that fits and wears well but just happens to be fused how are you damaged?

 

It probably does make less of a difference when you are talking about RTW, but the whole point about canvassing is that it means the jacket retains a shape better - which makes a massive difference if you're talking about MTM or bespoke. In addition, canvassing is associated with quality (for the historical reasons you mention), so a canvassed jacket is much more likely to be better made all round. On a balance of probabilities, you are just more likely to find badly-made fused jackets than badly-made canvassed jackets. Of course the first thing is that the jacket should fit you (or be able to be tailored to fit you without too much expense), but that's just the first thing.

post #1709 of 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roycru View Post
 

Brooks Brothers tweed jacket, shirt, and tie, Dunn & Co doeskin vest, Hermes pocket square, Polo Ralph Lauren embroidered cord trousers, and Allen Edmonds Ridgeways.....

Woah.. those trousers! i'm not sure if i'm horrified or ecstatic ! they're certainly incredible.

post #1710 of 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmith View Post

Woah.. those trousers! i'm not sure if i'm horrified or ecstatic ! they're certainly incredible.

These are popular in parts of the northeast (US), particularly along the coast.
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