The Official Tweed Appreciation Thread

[Poindexter]

Awesome tie b0nar!

 

[Gruto]



My first commission from a new English Mystery Bespoke Tailor

(EMBT

). I was looking for a more "classically" English, structured, clean cut, which differs from my Mahon garments or those from my Singapore tailor. Fabric is from the Alsport bunch (no. 2400) and weighs in at ~18oz. Apologies for the poor fit pics; they were snapped at my final fitting within an iPhone, but enough I suppose to give you a sense of the overall shape, proportion and fit. Note that IRL the vertical lines of the checks fall true. Something about my stance or the camera angle makes it look like the vertical lines for the checks are running at a slight diagonal, but I think this is an optical illusion.
Front:

Front fit pic:

Very nice cloth, and the fit looks very good. I'm not that fond of the straight open quarters. I've seen the feature on several new bespoke coats from A&S and Steed. Where does it come from? It makes the jacket look small, IMO.

Here is another example from Steed's website of the straight cutaway fronts :

 

[academe]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Very nice cloth, and the fit looks very good. I'm not that fond of the straight open quarters. I've seen the feature on several new bespoke coats from A&S and Steed. Where does it come from? It makes the jacket look small, IMO.
Here is another example from Steed's website of the straight cutaway fronts :

Thanks! Or actually thanks to my new tailor, since it's his good work on show here! Remind me not to wear a yellow shirt with that jacket again...

Not sure about the straight open fronts; may be a better question to pose over at Cutter & Tailor or London Lounge, as there may be a more knowledgeable bespoke crowd over that way. I know that all my English-made garments tend to look like this. I wonder if it's a regional difference is cutting/pattern making? The Italians like Liverano, etc tend to cut open or cuttaway fronts with more of a curving sweep.

 

[Butler]



Thanks! Or actually thanks to my new tailor, since it's his good work on show here! Remind me not to wear a yellow shirt with that jacket again...
Not sure about the straight open fronts; may be a better question to pose over at Cutter & Tailor or London Lounge, as there may be a more knowledgeable bespoke crowd over that way. I know that all my English-made garments tend to look like this. I wonder if it's a regional difference is cutting/pattern making? The Italians like Liverano, etc tend to cut open or cuttaway fronts with more of a curving sweep.

Thats the way they do it - I believe Manton once called it "the english disease" I have my stuff made with more open fronts, sort of "half way to Napoli" Vox also opt for more open profile, I think!

 

[academe]



Thats the way they do it - I believe Manton once called it "the english disease" I have my stuff made with more open fronts, sort of "half way to Napoli" Vox also opt for more open profile, I think!

Manton has a sense of humour. For this commission I asked for more open fronts, too. I think for a more formal cloth (think suiting) my new guy would have made a jacket with more closed fronts almost by default. While I see the attraction of the curving/sweeping Italian fronts, the English approach (if there is such a thing) to cutting fronts has really grown on me. Gives it a more regional flavour, I suppose.

 

[Austinii]

You can trust a man in tweed!

 

[Stirling]

Nice.

 

[imatlas]

Does anybody have a Bookster tweed waistcoat? I'm thinking of ordering a custom design (peak lapel, double breasted, peak quarters) but would love to see some real world pictures of their waistcoats before I commit.

 

[barrelntrigger]

Here are pics taken today at the Alameda Flea Market. The Tweed Lady has a booth every month and shows up with hundreds of vintage tweed jacket. Most are Harris tweed and sell for $49.00.

oh cool! thank you very much. i just called mr. jackson aka the tweedlady. she told me she used to live in walnut creek by a huge retirement center. she buys from estate sales. i can't wait for next month to take a look at her inventory! thanks again! i love tweed.

 

[barrelntrigger]

oh cool! thank you very much. i just called mr. jackson aka the tweedlady. she told me she used to live in walnut creek by a huge retirement center. she buys from estate sales. i can't wait for next month to take a look at her inventory! thanks again! i love tweed.

opps, ms. jackson

 

[barrelntrigger]

Superb!

wow! that's fantastic!

 

[barrelntrigger]

Another fan here - I buy mine from Bookster who other than being incapable of keeping to deadlines are very good and have a very good choice of fabrics.
Charlie

Hi Charlie, I'm interested in getting a SC made from them. Do you know if their SC are hand made? Are they fully canvassed or half or even fused? Thanks a bunch.

 

[mymil]

Hi Charlie, I'm interested in getting a SC made from them. Do you know if their SC are hand made? Are they fully canvassed or half or even fused? Thanks a bunch.

Bookster's jackets are fully canvassed, but I'll let somebody else who knows more answer about the quantity of handwork.

 

[culverwood]

You may not know that as well as their hacking jacket cut they have now introduced a lounge jacket cut.
http://www.tweed-jacket.com/JACKET PAGE/Bookster Lounge Jacket with 3-2 Roll.html

 

[barrelntrigger]

You may not know that as well as their hacking jacket cut they have now introduced a lounge jacket cut.
http://www.tweed-jacket.com/JACKET PAGE/Bookster Lounge Jacket with 3-2 Roll.html

Oh yeah, I saw that. Thanks. Have you ordered any of their products? Any advices? How true to size are their jackets? For instance, I have a size 44 chest with a 33 waist, when I pick out size 44 jackets at stores, they are huge on me. I have to down size to a size 42 or even 40 in some brands and even then there's too much room in the waist area. Thanks!