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PS by Paul Smith

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

Hello everybody, this is my first post so go easy on me smile.gif

 

My affection for shoes are ever developing, and I've come to realize leathershoes are in fact not leathershoes... For some time ago I acquired these lovely shoes: http://www.paulsmith.co.uk/shop/paul-smith-mens-shoes-390/paul-smith-shoes-taylors-shoe-sdxd-b412-cub-n3/product.html

 

In my opinion they are indeed very good looking, and I really like them.. But as time has passed by, and my knowledge of shoes has grown, I've become aware of the phenomenon of corrected grain. I have searched up and down for clues as to whether these shoes are made from said leather, or from full grain. This whole issue has made me feel a little uneasy, so I have turned to you in hopes that you could shed some light on the matter.

 

Are these made of corrected grain? Also, what is your perceived quality of the PS line by Paul Smith?

 

Thanks! smile.gif Great forum BTW! fing02[1].gif

post #2 of 4
They do not look like corrected grain.
post #3 of 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post

They do not look like corrected grain.

+ 1

As for PS Paul smith, it is some 2nd / 3rd tier line. Think Hugo, Ted Baker, Armani Jeans etc quality, and you are roughly there for PS Paul Smith.

As for shoes, at $215, it does not seem like a whole lot. Get them if you like them.
post #4 of 4
And the specification indicates they are Blake Rapid construction. Which is pretty durable construction for a single soled shoe. These shoes are not going to be as sturdy or long wearing as a double soled, goodyear welted shoe - but they are not intended for that sort of wear. They are intended to be softer, lighter, and sleeker.

About the grain: Technically speaking corrected grain merely means that the top surface of the leather has been artifically altered. So in the technical sense this term would actually include many 'pebble grained shoes which are of very high quality - as the pebble effect is embossed (ie. corrected).

While it is true that many lower quality shoes use leather that has been altered or 'corrected' in order to hide flaws it does not, in and of itself, indicate that the shoe will, or will not, wear well. More important considerations would be whether or not the leather is 'full grain' or 'top grain' as this is an indication of the leather's structural integrity, in that full grain is the whole hide thickness and top grain is the top layer of a hide that has been split off from the whole hide.

For dress shoes the premium leather type is full (or whole) grain calf - as you have the benefit of the structural integrity of the whole hide thickness, the natural surface of the hide, and the hide's ability to take any manner of colorants. All while still having hide that is not too thick.

Full grown cows develop very thick skins and the full (or whole) grain leather they produce can often be too thick and inflexible to make appealing shoes. This is where the 'trouble' comes in - the hides are split down the middle, or even into thirds, the 'top' of these back sections of hide is then embossed to look like the natural top surface and they are heavily died to cover up the hideous surface. This product is the dreaded 'corrected grain' that is used to make the cheapest of the cheap leather shoes. It not only won't hold up well but also, because of the way it's colored, it usually has the charm and subtlety of plastic.

It can sometimes help to read the specifications for the leather of a shoe - most often if the description does not indicate full grain you can bet it's not - as full grain is the premium product and most makers will be more than happy to advertise they used a premium product to make their shoes. I notice on this particular shoe's web description that the leather is "100% cow leather". It is impossible to say for certain what exact type of cow leather is used. If I were betting I would bet it's a top grain cow leather - not a full grain. But not the dreaded back side of a hide 'corrected' leather either.

Again, when it comes to leather used in shoes assume that what the manufacturer DOESN'T say in their description is often more informative than what they do say.

- G
PS - I specify hundreds, if not thousands of hides per year for upholstery purposes - but don't profess to know the shoe industry - so someone with more experience in this regard may be able to fine tune my summary as it pertains specifically to shoe making.
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