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Bespoke shoes from Shanghai - Jack Peng (all goodyear welted, supposedly) - Page 2

post #16 of 45
The question is: for that amount of money, is it a better product than, say, Carmina from the Armoury?
post #17 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

The question is: for that amount of money, is it a better product than, say, Carmina from the Armoury?

the experience is quite different and this was part of the charme. personal, i prefer to build up a relationship with an local artisan. imo, it's in the spirit of styleforum.
post #18 of 45

I agree. Quality of product is certainly one aspect, but so is the ability to customize. Being able to create unique pairs of shoes is its own experience. Of course, if the quality isn't good enough, there's no point, but it doesn't work to compare apples to apples with a RTW option.

post #19 of 45

photo.jpeg

 

Getting a mold made

post #20 of 45

An update: While their construction/finishing seems pretty good for the price, the leathers are very average, and the suede is subpar. So, I decided to source my own:

photo-1.JPG

 

photo.JPG

 

Thank you A.A. Crack & Sons. Shipping leather to China is... a process.

post #21 of 45
A. A. Crack's leather may not be very good either. I came across this post on The Crispin Colloquy a few weeks ago. I bolded the relevant words.
Quote:
I have spoken to Hardtke as well and I do believe that if enough people called and stated a willingness to purchase fr. calf...even (maybe especially) at a significantly higher price...that Hardtke would reconsider.

If Hardtke...who has been at roughly $8 sq.ft...quits carrying it, and GH...at roughly $13 sq.ft...quits carrying it (they've already discontinued the burgundy) what will be left at the top end? We'll have to start importing calf from AA Crack or Anonnay at roughly $20 sqft before shipping and customs. (And frankly I thought that the Hardtke calf was way better than what I've seen from AA Crack.)

The bottom line is that both Hardtke and GH are getting their leathers from overseas. The price has gone up to them. It has to go up to us as well or the finders can't afford to keep it. I suspect they're just not convinced that Americans...to quote an old saw..."who know the price of everything and the value of nothing" are willing to pay the kinds of prices that the finders need to stay in business.

If you don't have access to top grade leathers it becomes really difficult to make top grade shoes.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
post #22 of 45

Perhaps. But everything is relative. This is stuff is a lot nicer than what Jack Peng's is otherwise using here in China. I'm pretty happy with the quality though. Having looked through their catalogue, it seems like AA Crack can get ahold of pretty much whatever you are looking for. They've got a variety of qualities of calf leather as well, so I think I'll be fine. Also, DWFII is a snob about this stuff.

post #23 of 45

I'm just about to have my first pair made. I'll get back to you guys with a review when done.

post #24 of 45
Shanghai Tianzi Shoes make good Goodyear welted shoes as well, certainly for the price.
post #25 of 45

I've been contemplating getting a pair of bespoke shoes from Jack Peng for quite a while now. Finally, I had decided which pair of shoes I wanted to do, a copy of Corthay Arca. I went to the shop this morning and spoke with the vendor. I kindly asked if she could tell me where the leather used comes from, which tannery specifically, but she did not want to reveal that. Last time I was there, I had been promised that the shoes themselves costs about RMB 2500 (for the French calf or Italian baby calf) and the bespoke service RMB 1500, so RMB 4000 in total. Today, the vendor told me the shoes (MTO) costs RMB 3800 for the calfskin (3200 for suede but I don't want suede) and the bespoke service they provide is now RMB 8000 including the shoes. They don't seem to sell RTW shoes anymore. I asked for off the rack shoes, but she kept talking of MTO.

 

So, basically, it's not worth going there anymore. In my opinion, RMB 4000 is reasonable for a pair of Chinese made bespoke shoes as long as the leather used is of good quality and the fit/looks is good. But RMB 8000? For $1300 I'd rather go for Scarpe di Bianco, Sutor Mantellassi, Lazslo Vass, Edward Green or any other reputable shoe manufacturer. I'm unsure if they know what market segment they're trying to compete in.

 

Sorry Jack, I will not come back.

post #26 of 45
Prices just aren't that low in China. It is for quite a variety of reasons, but I think it can be tough for foreigners who have come expecting a good deal.

General inflation is high, but anything remotely in the field of luxury gets an extra boost from government officials and everyone associated with them - everyone who has money. These people are willing to spend on luxury in a way that doesn't necessarily seem very rational.

Also, the notion that foreigners would pay more than locals is totally out of date. They have way more cash than we do and are willing to spend on products that give status. Of course, I'm not sure if Jack Peng falls into this category.
post #27 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by babygreenspots View Post

Prices just aren't that low in China. It is for quite a variety of reasons, but I think it can be tough for foreigners who have come expecting a good deal.

General inflation is high, but anything remotely in the field of luxury gets an extra boost from government officials and everyone associated with them - everyone who has money. These people are willing to spend on luxury in a way that doesn't necessarily seem very rational.

Also, the notion that foreigners would pay more than locals is totally out of date. They have way more cash than we do and are willing to spend on products that give status. Of course, I'm not sure if Jack Peng falls into this category.

 

ROFL so true.  Chinese nouveau riche are much more daring to spend on luxury goods.  And very interestingly, more class than what's here in Silicon Valley.  Just the other day at the Hermes store I over heard some Chinese tourist saying its so cheap to buy in US and they don't have to worry about counterfeits!

 

But, Jack Peng doesnt fall into that category for sure...

post #28 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWraith View Post

Shanghai Tianzi Shoes make good Goodyear welted shoes as well, certainly for the price.

+1. My first pair from those guys are great, probably one of the first shoes I owned which required no breaking in and fitted my feet like a glove. They also managed to add a topy free of charge. 

My only criticism is that the laces had a tendency to undo themselves after some time. Maybe some wear would fix this. 

post #29 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stebbin View Post

+1. My first pair from those guys are great, probably one of the first shoes I owned which required no breaking in and fitted my feet like a glove. They also managed to add a topy free of charge. 


My only criticism is that the laces had a tendency to undo themselves after some time. Maybe some wear would fix this. 

wax the laces lightly will helps.
post #30 of 45

I beg to differ, prices are generally very low in China, as long as you stick to domestically produced goods (not always food/groceries though). Prices are a bit higher in Shanghai than the rest of China though, I'll give you that. And you'd be surprised if you knew how much extra foreigners pay on certain goods, though not all. Chinese do generally not have more money than we, not yet, and that's exactly why many westerners get to pay higher prices (I'm not to say this isn't likely to change in a few years though, but we're not there yet). 

 

My point was, considering the cost of labour in China (minimum monthly salary just increased to RMB 1650 in Shanghai, but their factory is not even in Shanghai), RMB 8000 is outrageous for a pair of Jack Peng bespoke shoes. Especially since I went there before and the vendor told me the price was RMB 4000. A price increase of RMB 4000 in a month is just insane. I decided to go to Yan ye handmade shoes instead. I finally got my pair, cost me RMB 1500 and so far I'm happy.

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