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Dress Watch conundrum

post #1 of 26
9/22/11 at 3:21pm
Thread Starter 
I have a scenario I would like some input on.

I have two watches and one needs to go. A vintage Rolex DateJust and modern Longines Conquest Heritage in solid Rose Gold (35mm version). I have an Omega PO that is my casual watch and love it and is staying.

I originally was going to sell the Rolex and put the funds aside. But I have fallen out of love with the Longines despite it being a classic dress watch. The main reason is I find it way too small. They have a 40mm version but the price is more than I want to pay for a Longines (approx $4500).

Options.

1. Sell the Longines and find a SS watch in the same price range (approx $2000-$2500).

2. Sell the Longines and upgrade to a better SS watch with a max price of $4000. Would love a pre owned JLC or the like. Any suggestions? Zenith??

3. Sell the Longines, put that money aside and keep the Rolex. Could I get away with using the DateJust as a dress watch? I could put a nice alligator strap on it. It has the jubilee bracelet right now.

It is 36mm but wears bigger than the Longines. Silver dial, stick baton markers.

What does SF think?
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post #2 of 26
9/22/11 at 3:33pm
...
Edited by chu - 12/11/11 at 11:45pm
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post #3 of 26
9/22/11 at 3:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chu View Post

Sell the longine and look into either the jlc master ultra thin or the zenith elite ultra thin

+1. Personally, though, I don't think of rolex as something even remotely resembling a dress watch. I second the JLC MUT, or if that isn't your thing, JLC MC.
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post #4 of 26
9/22/11 at 4:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


+1. Personally, though, I don't think of rolex as something even remotely resembling a dress watch. I second the JLC MUT, or if that isn't your thing, JLC MC.

+2. If you want a dress watch, then JLC is a very good option. I wouldn't use the Rolex for that purpose.
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post #5 of 26
9/22/11 at 5:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayJay View Post


+2. If you want a dress watch, then JLC is a very good option. I wouldn't use the Rolex for that purpose.

Also, Dornblueth & Sohn 99.1 or even the 99.0 would be an excellent decision, imo.
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post #6 of 26
9/22/11 at 5:54pm
I would sell both watches and upgrade to JLC.
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post #7 of 26
9/22/11 at 7:24pm
i agree with some of the above posters, sell the Longines and save for a JLC or a IWC alternatively, not a big fan of Zenith lately.
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post #8 of 26
9/22/11 at 7:42pm
While the DateJust is not, strictly speaking, a dress watch it can effectvely be worn as such in all but the most formal occasions. It is undoubtedly a versatile watch. If you enjoy wearing it I would be loathe to suggest that you sell it, as I think you would end up regretting the decision.

Assuming you did not sell your Rolex, it is unlikely a dress watch would get a lot of wear. In the circumstances, I suggest a vintage Omega Pie Pan or a Nomos Orion, which you should be able to purchase comfortably with the sale of both Longines.

If you do end up selling your Rolex, in addition to both Longines, then a JLC Master Ultra Thin is a great choice.
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post #9 of 26
9/22/11 at 7:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


Also, Dornblueth & Sohn 99.1 or even the 99.0 would be an excellent decision, imo.

I love Dornbluth but, at 42 mm, these cannot be considered a dress watch. At least, no more so than a DateJust IMO.
Edited by bhall41 - 9/22/11 at 7:58pm
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post #10 of 26
9/22/11 at 8:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhall41 View Post


I love Dornbluth but, at 42 mm, these cannot be considered a dress watch. At least, no more so than a DateJust IMO.

The dial is only around 39mm though, and I consider that to be about right for a dress watch? Of course, it is no calatrava... or as dressy as the JLC MUT at 34mm, but I still consider the JLC MUT Moonphase to be a dress watch and that too is 39mm.

Size aside, I find the Rolex Datejust to be informal just because of its dive-inspired look.
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post #11 of 26
9/22/11 at 8:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post


The dial is only around 39mm though, and I consider that to be about right for a dress watch? Of course, it is no calatrava... or as dressy as the JLC MUT at 34mm, but I still consider the JLC MUT Moonphase to be a dress watch and that too is 39mm.

Size aside, I find the Rolex Datejust to be informal just because of its dive-inspired look.

I think we are going to have to agree to disagree on this one. The Dornbluths wear big due to their thin bezel and white dial. IMO the case size of a dress watch should not exceed 40 mm, and preferably should be between 35 and 38 mm. A DateJust, especially with with a fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet, looks pretty dressy and completely different to a dive watch.
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post #12 of 26
9/22/11 at 8:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhall41 View Post


I think we are going to have to agree to disagree on this one. The Dornbluths wear big due to their thin bezel and white dial. IMO the case size of a dress watch should not exceed 40 mm, and preferably should be between 35 and 38 mm. A DateJust, especially with with a fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet, looks pretty dressy and completely different to a dive watch.

That does made a lot of sense, and I will have to defer to you on this one--you probably know more about watches than I do smile.gif.

Although we will definitely have to disagree about watch size. I blame my age for this one, but for me anything with a sub 40mm dial is fine with me. Bigger than that, and I will be more cautious, however.
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post #13 of 26
9/22/11 at 8:58pm
How does the zenith ultra thin compare to the JLC model? Are they even on the same page as far as quality goes?
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post #14 of 26
9/23/11 at 3:46am
i agree with the above posters that, while not strictly a dress watch, a vintage dj on leather strap works in all but the most formal of situations. i use an air king from the 50s that was passed down to me, and it probably draws more compliments than any of my watches. people, particularly women, seem to love something that looks as if it has a history.
if you're just not comfortable with it though i'd go for a reverso or MUT.
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post #15 of 26
9/23/11 at 6:07am
Thread Starter 
Thanks so much for the input gentlemen. I do realize using the DJ as a dress watch would be a major compromise and acceptable with a suit in a work environment but not so much at a wedding.

JLC seems to be getting the nod here, but I would love more opinions on Zenith. I understand some changes have occurred with them recently which are positive and I notice their Elite line is very reasonably priced.

The only IWC that could fit my budget either way is a Portofino and they leave me cold, plus I understand the Portofino is the least modified movement in IWC so does not really have the IWC DNA if you will.
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