Can anyone shed any light on the advantages of this type of shoulder construction, where the sleeve extends much farther up the shoulder line? Do any modern coats have this? It would seem it would be more mobile when lifting the arms since it follows the natural contour of the deltoid, and the armhole wouldn't be stretched, but I'm wondering if maybe it's just decorative? I found the pics and explanation below, incidentally on the uniforms of the Lewis and Clark expedition:
"The uniform coat, undress coat, and roundabout were fitted garments and were cut differently from present day styles. This is not to say that they were uncomfortable and ill-suited, these garments were for an age that had different ideas as to the function of clothing then Americans do today. Sleeves were cut close to the arm and extended as far as the wrist. The cut of the coat at the area of the armscye was also unique and can be seen in the back views shown in the accompanying plates. Garments made between the mid 1760s to about 1819 had the armscye considerably inset and this presented a somewhat narrow-shouldered look that is very distinctive. Not only was there a narrow shouldered silhouette to the figure, the sleevehead was smoothly set into the armsyce such as to present a smooth line from coat to sleeve. This was certainly no ridge at the beginning of the sleeve as characteristic of present day coats or most reproductions made using modern patterns. "
Do any modern tailors do this?
"The uniform coat, undress coat, and roundabout were fitted garments and were cut differently from present day styles. This is not to say that they were uncomfortable and ill-suited, these garments were for an age that had different ideas as to the function of clothing then Americans do today. Sleeves were cut close to the arm and extended as far as the wrist. The cut of the coat at the area of the armscye was also unique and can be seen in the back views shown in the accompanying plates. Garments made between the mid 1760s to about 1819 had the armscye considerably inset and this presented a somewhat narrow-shouldered look that is very distinctive. Not only was there a narrow shouldered silhouette to the figure, the sleevehead was smoothly set into the armsyce such as to present a smooth line from coat to sleeve. This was certainly no ridge at the beginning of the sleeve as characteristic of present day coats or most reproductions made using modern patterns. "
Do any modern tailors do this?
