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DC Tailor Lied About Fabric for Custom Trousers in Washington D.C.? (Tip Top Fabrics?)

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
To make a long story short, I have been having custom items made by a well known Washington D.C. tailor for the past six years. His name has appeared in this board a few times. I recently wanted to have a new pair of trousers in a medium gray pattern made. I visited the tailor and was told that prices for custom trousers have now gone up. About 3-4 years ago I paid around $400 for a pair. The price was now raised to $520 or more depending on the fabric.

Because I was happy with the quality of the work of this tailor and am aware that prices, in general, have gone up; I agreed to this price. I was given a fabric book that the tailor said was excellent Italian fabric. I selected one fabric I particularly liked; a gray pattern; to have the pants made. There was no label on the fabric book, but was told by the tailor that the fabric was more expensive that what he is currently selling for $520 a pair, but that he would sell it to me for the same price. I generally trust him, so I agreed. In hindsight I should have made a note of exactly what the fabric was. Upon leaving, the tailor persuaded me to have two more pairs of pants made to update my wardrobe. I picked out a navy with a wide light purple pinstripe and a darkish brown from the same fabric book.

I was measured and about a month later received a call that my pants were ready. When I arrived, I was told that only two pairs of trousers were made. Apparently, the gray pattern fabric I wanted and the reason I visited, was "out of stock", so the tailor decided to just make the other two pairs without telling me that the primary fabric I wanted was not being made.

The two pairs fit great as they usually do, but I had my heart set on the gray pattern fabric. I was a little upset that this tailor just decided to order the other two pairs without telling me. In addition, the pants in the brown fabric I selected came back looking green? I definitely recognize the pattern as being the same from the fabric book but am convinced that the fabric in the book was more brown and not the green that the pants are in? Has this ever happened to anyone because green doesn't really suit me and now I have a $525 pair of green pants?

To check this, I asked the tailor to see the book of fabric and compare. He looked for it but claimed that it was likely thrown away as it was an "old book", hence the reason for the one fabric being out of stock? He showed me another book that was labeled Tip Top Fabrics Royal Collection Super 120's 10.5oz and said that this is a "better" fabric made by the same people and that I could select a gray pattern in this book that he would make for the same price; $520. He also showed me a book labeled Tallia di Delfino Super 130's and said that this was also a much better fabric but that he would make me a pants in gray for the same price; $520.

So I went home and I was able to find some information about the 3 trouser fabrics I ordered:

They had the numbers: D1099, D1072 and D1113, so I called Tip Top Fabrics, gave them the numbers and was told the fabrics are:

Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC); all 9-10 oz, the Gray is super 110; the brown (or green?) a super 120 and the navy a super 130. And I was told that they are ALL IN STOCK!?! and are all $50/yard.

So, my questions are this:

(1) I definitely like the style of the patterns in the VBC book I saw but I know VBC is not typically a highly rated as some of the English fabrics. Is this type of fabric that I should be paying $520 for a pair of trousers? If so, then I may go back to this tailor and have him make the pants in gray.

(2) On the other hand, while I love the quality of the pants this particular tailor makes, $520 per pair does seem a little outrageous. And the experience of this tailor not telling me about the gray being out of stock or lying about it and just making the other two pairs has rubbed me the wrong way.

But going with another tailor concerns me. I one had a pair of M2M trousers made by another local tailor using these same pants and they are awful (they look like balloon pants).

Does anyone have any recommendations about another local tailor who may make custom trousers in a more reasonable price range ($300-400)? I have many sample pants previously made, but how easy is it for a tailor to replicate someone else's pattern without issues? Because I don't think I can handle any more balloon pants...
post #2 of 13
Maybe ask this tailor for his prices on CMT? That will resolve the fabric issues, although it would mean you'd have to spend time procuring your own fabric.

I agree he should call you and let you know that he couldn't get something that you ordered as soon as he knows about it. With regards to the brown/green issue, there's no way to say without seeing the swatch you saw when ordering.
post #3 of 13
The bottom line is that you will usually experience some pain and angst when it comes time to finding a new tailor.

It takes time and money to develop a solid relationship with a tailor. If that relationship goes south you'll have to start from scratch, and in a way, you both lose.

Bets of luck in your endeavor.
post #4 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by WallaWalla View Post

* * * Has this ever happened to anyone because green doesn't really suit me and now I have a $525 pair of green pants?

* * *


I hope that you enjoy your green pants. smile.gif

My observations:

1. Most tailors take a sample from the swatch book, and they pin it to their internal order records. Ask to check your pants against this swatch.

2. Many cloth makers make the same cloth in a couple of colors, and there may have been an error at either your tailor or Tip Top. Or, indeed, the cloth had a greenish cast which you do not recall. If there were an error, the tailor should offer the pants at 1/2 price or some other acommodation.

3. $520 is a fair price for the cloth offered for a retail establishment. The cloth alone costs about $100. Then tack-on the labor, overhead, etc. If you had a cloth that cost $100 a yard, then the cloth cost alone would be about $200.

4. Sure, you can probably get it cheaper, but you'll have to find a tailor or CMT operation. You will need to experiment a little, ask around, etc.. You can try LS Mens Clothes in NYC. Send a pair of pants for copying. The CMT cost will be about $225-250. Ask for Izzy.

5. You placed the order for the three trousers, and the tailor fulfilled the order on two. I do not see the problem of doing this. I do not see why the tailor would claim that the grey cloth were out of stock if that were not the case.

Good luck.
post #5 of 13

What is the lie?  That they gray fabric was out of stock?  Why would he lie about that, since it cost him a sale?  I would imagine it was out of stock when he placed the order for it, and it was subsequently replenished, or there perhaps was a miscommunication.  I see no reason why he would lie about that.  And I also see no reason why he should have held up the other two pants for the gray ones.  I'm not sure what your beef is. 

post #6 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by WallaWalla View Post

In addition, the pants in the brown fabric I selected came back looking green? I definitely recognize the pattern as being the same from the fabric book but am convinced that the fabric in the book was more brown and not the green that the pants are in? Has this ever happened to anyone because green doesn't really suit me and now I have a $525 pair of green pants?

Certain shades are really bad for this- they look like completely different colors depending on the light source. I had a green/brown coat like that once. Drove me nuts.
post #7 of 13
I have a medium/carmel like brown suit from VBC cloth and the first time I walked outside it turned green. Certain shades change according to the lighting.
post #8 of 13
I haven't read this but moral of the story: +$400 for pants = rape.
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Well, maybe "lie" is a little harsh - I could give the tailor the benefit of the doubt and say that MAYBE the fabric was out of stock when he ordered it and is now all of a sudden back in stock. But what peevs me is that I didn't even get a phone call when he KNEW that this particular fabric was the sole reason I came in AND he was aware that it was out of stock immediately. He didn't even tell me when he called to tell me the trousers were ready... oh, btw I didn't make one of your pants...

If I had to speculate, my guess would be he either forgot about the third fabric and said it was out of stock to cover it up. Or, didn't want to risk losing the sale of the other two pants, so he made them anyway without telling me.

With respect to the "green" fabric. My guess is that it was the same fabric shown in the book. Just that it didn't appear anywhere NEAR as green on the sample. I feel kind of cheated as even my wife who was with me and saw the fabric when I picked it out said... I don't remember it being that "green".... Maybe this is a VBC thing... but now I definitely have a $520 pair of custom trousers I absolutely hate

Does anyone know a resource online where I can look swatches of all the current VBC fabrics... I would really like to track down this pattern AND see if the "green" fabric looks "green" elsewhere...

Finally, what's the consensus on the $200 pants with VBC super 120 fabric. A rip-off? Is there other fabrics I should be looking at?

It looks like since the fabric is now back in stock at Tip Top I can tell the tailor and have him make the pants. Although, (1) I still think $500 is ridiculous for trousers made with super 120 VBC? (2) If I could find a tailor that could replicate the pants for around $300, I would jump at the opportunity to have multiple pairs made if he/she could provide some sort of assurances that they would be almost identical. Any local suggestions?
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
Does anyone have any recommendations on local or traveling tailors that might be able to replicate custom trousers for around $300?
post #11 of 13
Chan?
post #12 of 13
you say that tiptop has the cloth "in stock". did it occur to you that tiptop may have bought the last remaining yardage?
post #13 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by WallaWalla View Post


Does anyone know a resource online where I can look swatches of all the current VBC fabrics... I would really like to track down this pattern AND see if the "green" fabric looks "green" elsewhere...


Is your monitor actually colour corrected to show perfect real life colours? Would the photos have been colour corrected?

If you're worried about colour you take the sample walk over to a window and look at it with sunlight. Even this causes problems. Evening sunlight is a different colour then noon. Hey bring a colour meter with you. Problem solved!

If you try and judge things with anything but sunlight you're asking for trouble.

http://www.sizes.com/units/color_temperature.htm

Oh and lets not get started with how the surroundings can cause problems.

You're eyes and mind adapt. They will play tricks on you.
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