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Suits in Vietnam... - Page 6

post #76 of 95
Hello, bumping this to encourage any more feedback on Dung, especially from Alfa to see how it all turned out - as I will be in HCMC for a few days soon and was thinking of paying Dung a visit. Also, a question - if I only have two/three days, will this be enough for Dung to do a measure and one fitting. Obviously, I expect it to take longer for a suit to be finished, but is it feasible to squeeze this in and then sit back and wait for the end product to arrive?
post #77 of 95
One more bump
post #78 of 95
Selvaggio,

I had two (nearly identical) suits made by him not long ago. I posted pictures of one and invited comments and opinions in this thread, if you haven't found it yet. Some of the feedback I got might be of interest to you as well.

Note that based upon my pictures a few people here have recommended more waist suppression. If you use the search function, you'll find another thread where the OP mentioned he was having a Dũng suit altered back home to add waist suppression. Possibly this means that Dũng does relatively little waist suppression per se, so you may want to pay special attention to that when you go to your fitting.

Also, I had two fittings and still feel the jackets could have been a bit more fitted (there is some excess fabric in the back).

When I was there, there was no way they would have been able to do the first fitting within two or three days, but that was in the weeks leading up to the Chinese New Year and they were swimming in orders, so perhaps you'll be lucky and their order volume is lower when you go. Judging from what others have been saying, I wouldn't count on it though.

If it does work out time-wise, please come back here and report your experience.
post #79 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selvaggio View Post
Hello, bumping this to encourage any more feedback on Dung, especially from Alfa to see how it all turned out - as I will be in HCMC for a few days soon and was thinking of paying Dung a visit.

Also, a question - if I only have two/three days, will this be enough for Dung to do a measure and one fitting. Obviously, I expect it to take longer for a suit to be finished, but is it feasible to squeeze this in and then sit back and wait for the end product to arrive?

Hello Selvaggio,

I wasn't very happy with the final product, although it is most likely my fault in terms of expectations and the time frame for fittings. I was only in town for 4 days so I got measured, picked my fabric and gave a sample pair of trousers and jacket to emulate. A day later I had the only fitting with the sleeves not attached. A month later when both the suit and the linen blazer arrived there were a number of issues.

On the suit, the pants were not slim at all, despite me giving a pair to copy directly. They did do the waist adjuster I asked for. The jacket was okay for fit, but the armhole was gigantic and quite low which was strange as he had seemed to make great efforts in the fitting to keep the armhole quite high. The sleeves were correspondingly wide. Again, I brought a sample jacket along for emulation and they seemed to completely ignore the sleeve width and armhole positioning.

On the linen blazer, they got multiple things wrong. I never got to have a fitting on it and they said they would just copy the first jacket's dimensions. The shoulders seem about 2cm wider than the suit jacket and although I asked for patch pockets and specifically brought 2 pages of images to copy they still gave regular flap pockets just like the suit jacket. Again, wide sleeves and big and low armholes.

I have had both jackets and trousers substantially altered and re-tailored, but some things like low armholes cannot be fixed. I had the sleeves tapered, but they are still much wider than my OTR jackets. I had the trousers slimmed and they are not quite serviceable. All the buttons are crap, but I didn't see any horn or MOP in the shop so they probably don't have these. Both jackets also fit quite strangely in the shoulders. Hard to explain, but it is almost as if they were shaped for a hanger and not for me. Sleeves were also a bit too long which was also strange as I had specified the length during the fitting but it was almost as if they added another 1cm to the line I had indicated.

Nearly all of these issues I attribute to me expecting them to get it right with only 1 fitting. Although I gave lots of instructions, images and brought samples to copy they still got it quite wrong. If I had multiple fittings I think I could have addressed all of the issues and left satisfied. I don't recommend trying them if you only have 2-3 days. The rest of the issues are just part and parcel of having tailoring done in a place like vietnam. I don't think they have much demand for grosgrain trim at the cuffs, horn buttons or the slider adjusters at the waist.

I have been having much better luck just altering OTR suits to get the fits right. I would try Dzung again, but only if I could do 4-5 fittings and lowered my expectations for trimmings and attention to detail.
post #80 of 95
Il_colonnello and Alfa, thank you both so much for you quick and really useful replies. I think, in fact that I will only have 2.5 days in Saigon at the end on my trip - so if I was to go to Dung it sounds like I would be casting my fate to the wind by relying just on the first measure up...and I would be up for a fair bit of rework back home. It is a bit of a dilemma, because I know I will be able to get some clothes made at the quick tourist places in Hanoi and Hoi An, but I have had clothes made in el cheapo places before (Bangkok and Tsim Sha Tsui). Without wanting to appear a complete wanker - I think I have grown up a bit and moved on from all that (though please correct me if you think this is wrong if you have had some good experiences with the quick tailors in Vietnam) - and maybe its just a matter of being very clear about what I want, choosing good fabric and moderating my expectations a bit. The grand plan, given that quality of Dung's work gets praise here, was to have at least one suit made and get my measurements on file. Then, whenever I need a new suit, I would pick up the 'phone from Sydney and speak to my good fellow in HCMC and, hey presto, a never-ending supply of reasonably priced, reasonable quality tailored-clothes would be mine. This now seems a little crazy, especially given your experience Alfa. Though, i_colonnello, your suit looks pretty good to me. I think the lack of waist supression (and large sleeve volume, low arm hole Alfa experienced) makes me think of the achetypal politician/corporate look, which is probably something these tailors do a lot of for their clients. Maybe a tendency to a firmer shoulder and more structure also is part of their default look? I am a little hard to fit and tailoring OTR suits has never really worked out that well. I'm average height, but long and kind-of chunky through the torso, with short arms and legs - which translates into jackets that fit in the body but are too wide at shoulders and too long, or fit well on the shoulders, but are too fitted through the torso (and letting out, moving buttons etc has always looked a bit wrong to me). The best fitting suit I have ever had came from Charlie Chang in HK, but that was a while ago and my shape has changed a bit, so I dare not order remotely with him...though maybe I should. Anyway, many thanks once more.
post #81 of 95
Honestly, I wouldn't buy a 1-fitting MTM suit from any tailor anymore regardless of where they are located. I have tried it now a few times and I think the expectation that the measurement numbers alone will result in something good was naive and unrealistic on on my part. I have learned the hard way that just because a tailor can do fully-canvased, functional cuffs, pick-stitching and side tabs on trousers does not say anything about how the suit is going to fit. Find a tailor more local to you and have something made up with multiple fittings that you can comment and fix each time. This isn't to disparage Dzung by any means as I found no fault with the craftsmanship for the price. My comment was more to the fact that many people, myself included, have unrealistic expectations of these tailors to produce something which they may see in a magazine or on this forum with a single fitting. I do think the house style of Dzung is the "politician" look so in order to combat that would take a few fittings to iron that out. I am not sure if high-armholes can still be done though after the first fitting as the hole has already been patterned and cut by the time of the fitting unless you get to try on a basted muslin version. I have been required to travel to Hanoi a bit lately for work. I may try and find someone there that is willing to work with me through multiple fittings to have a suit made. This time I will keep the suit simple, but focus on fit as this is more important than anything else.
post #82 of 95
Alfa - Sorry to hear your Dũng experience was disappointing.

I'd like to stress that despite the shortcomings in my Dũng suit as pointed out in the other thread, it still fits me much better than any off-the-rack suit I've ever had. Like you Selvaggio I am a classic case for custom-made clothes; even German size-94 suits, supposedly one of the better OTR choices for tall and thin men, don't fit me nearly as well as the result from Dũng. Add to that that I only paid about 120 euros for Dũng (with inexpensive cloth obviously but that's your own choice) whereas even the absolute cheapest OTR suits start from say 200 - 250 euros. Really, there is no comparison.

I'd also like to point out that what the good Saigon tailors do is not MTM. MTM to my understanding means making basic adjustments to a factory pattern such as sleeve length, chest, etc and then sending those adjusted measurements to the factory for execution. From what I could tell, that isn't what the high-street tailors in Saigon do (of whom Dũng is certainly one), everything is done from scratch and by hand.

Also, one last point about number of fittings. I was in Vietnam and Hong Kong for about two months so had ample time to try out about a dozen tailors. Mostly I just got shirts from them for a first try but I did get a couple of other suits aside from Dũng. One of them was done on 1 fitting only and actually fits me slightly better than Dũng's - it has a bit more waist suppression, a cleaner back and overall a slightly closer cut. (It did take just as long to make though, about five weeks.) The thing is, it's only half-canvassed and they refused to do side adjusters on the trousers. I agree with Alfa that fit is more important than anything else provided you're only ever going to get one single suit from that tailor, but I would rather keep tweaking my Dũng suits a bit here and there with each order, and after a few tries end up with something that both fits me perfectly and has full canvassing, working buttons, side adjusters and so on. If on the other hand you are looking to commission just one suit and after that never get anything else from the same place, by all means, focus on fit.
post #83 of 95
Have now been to Vietnam and back and thought I would provide an update.

I had a couple of inexpensive suits made by Duc (pronounced more like Doo-ook than Duke) tailors in Hanoi. The service, turn around, cutting and sewing were all good and the resulting suits fit well. The have a range of inexpensive fabrics grouped by price. They can also get Dormeuil if you want.

They use a floating canvas construction. Pick stitching and button holes are well done. The initial measure up and the first fitting were very thourough.

They are comfortable with you choosing all the standard variables - pleats or no pleats, cuffs, number of buttons etc.

The only thing they had a 'problem' with was my desire for a double vented jacket which was considered too 'old man', which, considering I am in my forties, I took as a kind of compliment. We tussled over this for a while before I gave in on a single vent, figuring that they know their style and cut and what works with it - and it wasn't that important to me. Might have felt differently if I had been paying thousands of dollars.

The suits fit well, but the house style it is a little odd - and you may want to be very specific on some things - so I would suggest that you don't go when you have been rushing about as the combination of Hanoi heat and humidity and some language barriers may defeat your resolve.

I spec'ed single breasted, two button, single vent (eventually), single pleat, cuffs - I wanted to keep it all pretty standard. What I have noticed is the shoulder is medium padded. The lapel is a medium width and the gorge not too high, no too low. The buttoning point is a little high. Legs width is fine - a tad on the full side, but nothing weird. So far, so normal.

The more distinctive aspects of the cut... the jacket is a bit short - this could be good for me, in theory as I am a bit long body/short legs, but in practice looks a bit strange when combined with other aspects of the cut. The jacket is lightly darted above the pocket flaps, but in reality is cut with virtually no waist suppression - quite boxy. The jacket has very open, rounded quarters.

Put this all together and the effect is quite retro in almost a classic early sixties, sack suit kind of way (so good thing I went with the single vent). Not bad - just a little off centre. As I said the quality of the construction is actually really good, so I might get the waist nipped in later if I can be bothered.

The suits were about $400 each. So amazingly good value!

I also had a pair of shoes made at the place in HCM City that has been recommended here. Didn't have enough time to collect a finished product, so took them on trust and they sent them home for an extra $20. I got a pair of basic black Oxfords. They are well made. Leather soled, but came with a topy cover already in place. The leather is not high quality, but they fit my super wide flappers like a glove.

Hope this is useful for anyone heading to Vietnam. Wonderful place to visit btw.
post #84 of 95
Enjoyed reading all the info. Thanks for sharing guys. FYI, please be careful about shipping fabrics to Vietnam these days. If you're shipping 4 to 5 meters it should not be a problem but if you declare, say, in excess of 20 meters (lord only knows how many suits any of us want to order ), it will be an issue. They are now ask for 'testing' results for imported fabric. They want to make sure that fabric imported does not have any chemicals, contaminants, etc in it. I have no idea when and how this came about but I had a couple of shipments stuck in Customs because of this. It took forever to clear the shipment. Before anyone inquires, it was not suit fabrics that I shipped. I own a small bag/luggage production studio near the airport and I was sending new nylon samples I had procured stateside. Anyway, thanks for the great info. I've be in and out of Vietnam so many times for so many years and I've never had the time nor opportunity to visit any of these tailors.
post #85 of 95
My first post...break out the champagne.

Heading to HCMC tomorrow a.m. Last April I had 2 pairs of pants and 3 shirts made by Dung. I only had 3 days and they stepped up to get them out. The pants were great, some slight fit variance, but nothing crazy. Shirts were good, but I should have specified removable collar stays. Only issue I had is lousy buttons. Curious if this is consistent or a an oddity. This time I am going for a suit, a jacket, more pants and a couple more shirts. I am 6'5", all leg and a barrel chest. I have had tailors in; Taiwan, HK, Bangkok, Canada and Vietnam. Bangkok was garbage, but the rest have been good. My buddy in Canada is a 2nd generation Italian tailor and does excellent work. I had two old Italian guys arguing over me which I take as a good sign. Anywho, I land at 11 a.m., and will drop bags and head straight to Dungs. I will only ask to have as many fittings as needed within the 7 days I am there, and they can mail it out.
post #86 of 95
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChunkD View Post
My buddy in Canada is a 2nd generation Italian tailor and does excellent work. I had two old Italian guys arguing over me which I take as a good sign. Anywho, I land at 11 a.m., and will drop bags and head straight to Dungs. I will only ask to have as many fittings as needed within the 7 days I am there, and they can mail it out.

ChunkD...can you share the name and location of your Italian tailor in Canada? What are his rates?
post #87 of 95
Wetnose, no problem. His shop is Ralph's (as in Rafaelo) custom tailors. His shop is on the corner of Corydon Ave and Wilton St in Winnipeg. Rates are of course varied and fabric dependant but i think if you benchamarked $1000 and go up or down accordingly. Once he gets to know you, he will swear at you, which I value. First jacet I ordered I said no vents, and he turned on me. I get the vents now.
post #88 of 95
people should check out Lam, he does a fantastic job as well.
post #89 of 95
to resurrect a long-dead thread, what is Minh's address?
post #90 of 95

Bumping this thread up to hopefully get some advice. 

 

I am going to Vietnam for 5-6 weeks this June-July for a research project, and my time is going to be split between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Probably 3 weeks in Hanoi, and 2-3 weeks in HCMC) 

 

I've heard that there is cheap tailoring to be had in Vietnam, and wanted to get some opinions on what to get and where to get it from. Is Dungs in HCMC still around, and has their fabric choice gotten any better (or the fabric quality in general?) 

 

I already have two, what I consider poor fitted suits that I bought in a rush from Men's Warehouse (I needed suits for medical school interviews and I had only a week and a half to get a suit before my first interview. Had I more time, I would have avoided them because I'm not happy with the quality or the fit of the suit). They are Navy and Charcoal. 

 

It seems that suit buying can be a little hit or miss in Vietnam? The main things I would like to purchase are a Navy Blazer, and if there is a quality place, a light grey suit. I have a fairly slim, but athletic build (5'10" 160 pounds, 39" chest, and 31" waist ) so I need slimmer fitting clothing, but I'm not experienced enough to know how to ask for that fit in terms of basic measurements.

 

I greatly appreciate any help you guys can offer me!

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