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Self Edge SF/NY/LA/PDX - Japanese Denim & More (Iron Heart, 3sixteen, Flat Head, Strike Gold... - Page 388

post #5806 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiya View Post


PBJ isn't exclusive to BiG in the US, they've had multiple other retailers over the past five years and i don't believe any of them still carry the brand.

So they are exclusive to BiG...

post #5807 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by aspasp View Post

So they are exclusive to BiG...

I think the word "exclusive" is being used differently here. In my mind having an exclusive on a brand means nobody else can carry it due to a contract between the store and the brand. Regardless, yes, i believe BiG are the only ones in the US carrying PBJ.
post #5808 of 6021
Roy's new jeans are Kinda Special.

Roy Slaper is back to making jeans and we think he's created his best fitting jean yet. It's between a slim and straight cut with some taper to the leg using a new 13.75oz loomstate Cone White Oak denim that was developed exclusively for Roy. The denim has a nice heft to it and the fit is just perfect. The fabric's fibers really come alive after the initial soak with a little bit of hairiness which goes away after a week or two of wear. With a denim this rigid we're sure to see some wild worn in pairs later this year with a higher contrast wear pattern than his last lighter weight jean release.

Roy is modeling the Kinda Special (KS1001) jean in the photos after being soaked, hemmed, and worn for four weeks. Keep in mind that he sized up one from his true size for a roomier fit. If worn true to size the jean will fit a little slimmer than shown in the photos, yet due to the cut of the upper block it's a jean that can easily be sized up or down for a slimmer or roomier fit without looking sloppy or too snug.

These jeans will go on sale at Noon (local time) at all four Self Edge stores on Saturday, May 10th and at 10am (PDT) in our online store on the same day.

Check the product page for full measurements, a full spec list, more info, and high-res photographs.

Shop Roy Online

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post #5809 of 6021
Strike Gold Super Short Slub Weft Jeans & Brushed Flannel Shirts

While in Japan at the end of 2013 we saw a denim that excited us more than nearly any other new denim we'd seen in well over a year. It was at a meeting with Strike Gold at which they brought us a sample of the fabric to see; since that meeting we couldn't wait to get the jean into our stores. It's been a long six month wait since then and we've finally got a small run of these jeans available at our stores.

With the new 5105 (slim straight) and 5109 (slim tapered) models Strike Gold have produced a 15oz unsanforized denim made of pure indigo warp threads and a light gray weft thread. The denim is very interesting because they used a super short slub cotton for the weft threads. This is a cotton staple so short we believe it's shorter than the sugar cane fibers used in Sugar Cane's famed Okinawa and Hawaii jeans, except those use a slub fiber (sugar cane) in the warp and weft of the denim. Using a cotton staple this short is tricky when producing a fabric that should be rugged and somewhat heavy in weight because the yarns need to be spun at a far slower pace and therefore increasing the risk of the shuttle yarn (aka, the weft thread) snapping far more often than it already does. The slow spinning of the thread should not be confused with the tension or speed of a loom, spinning of yarns is a process which happens far before any loom is involved in making a fabric. All this work results in a denim that looks like no denim we've seen before. The process used gives the denim an extremely uneven texture, but not necessarily slubby looking. Our best description is that at a 45 degree angle it can be compared closely to a vintage hand-woven Persian rug, but not so much that most people wouldn't be able to tell much of a difference outside of the deeper color. The jean looks like an indigo colored denim but has a deeper blue hue from the weft threads peaking through the indigo warp threads. It's a jean like this which reminds us that we haven't seen it all, yet.

Along with these two new jeans we've received two new brushed flannels, available in red or yellow. If you're local to one of our four stores do yourself a favor and come by just to see this new denim in person.
Both jeans and flannels along with a restock of the 3105/3109 jeans and belts in both colors are available now at all Self Edge stores and in our online store.


Shop Strike Gold Online

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post #5810 of 6021
Two questions @kiya:

I read somewhere that slubby denim generally isn't as strong as non-slubby denim. Any truth to this, and do you know what causes it? I realize that there are a bunch of factors that figure into the relative strength of a material and that slub - which is probably somewhat subjective - may not be as significant as other factors.

How do people generally size Iron Heart 666-XHS? I have the SExSC06 in a 30 (fits well, could size down if I wanted to go nuts with the slim fit idea) and the SExDBxSxS12 in a 30 (fits well overall but loose enough in the waist that I need a belt). It looks like the waist measurements for all three are relatively similar according to the size charts.

Thanks!
post #5811 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post

Two questions @kiya:

I read somewhere that slubby denim generally isn't as strong as non-slubby denim. Any truth to this, and do you know what causes it? I realize that there are a bunch of factors that figure into the relative strength of a material and that slub - which is probably somewhat subjective - may not be as significant as other factors.

There is no truth to that, if you really break it down durability has more to do with pliability of a jean combined with total weight of the fabric. Some of the longest lasting jeans we've ever sold have been some of the lighter weight ones. But a heavier fabric will last longer if it's designed to, unfortunately most heavier weight fabrics are designed to age a certain way over being designed to last a long time.
post #5812 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiya View Post

There is no truth to that, if you really break it down durability has more to do with pliability of a jean combined with total weight of the fabric. Some of the longest lasting jeans we've ever sold have been some of the lighter weight ones. But a heavier fabric will last longer if it's designed to, unfortunately most heavier weight fabrics are designed to age a certain way over being designed to last a long time.

I hope my new 19oz custom jeans will last a few years - they cost me an arm and a leg!smile.gif
post #5813 of 6021
Kiya,

Those new Strike Gold look awesome. PM sent to discuss cut and sizing
post #5814 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiya View Post

There is no truth to that, if you really break it down durability has more to do with pliability of a jean combined with total weight of the fabric. Some of the longest lasting jeans we've ever sold have been some of the lighter weight ones. But a heavier fabric will last longer if it's designed to, unfortunately most heavier weight fabrics are designed to age a certain way over being designed to last a long time.

Thanks, I suspected that that might be the case.

Any thoughts related to my sizing assumptions? 30 in SExSC06 ≈ 30 in SExDBxSxS12 ≈ 30 in IH 666-XHS 25 oz?
post #5815 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post

Two questions @kiya:

How do people generally size Iron Heart 666-XHS? I have the SExSC06 in a 30 (fits well, could size down if I wanted to go nuts with the slim fit idea) and the SExDBxSxS12 in a 30 (fits well overall but loose enough in the waist that I need a belt). It looks like the waist measurements for all three are relatively similar according to the size charts.

Thanks!

I know this wasn't directed towards me but I thought I'd offer my two cents. It's important with the 666-xhs to get the thigh sizing right and go from there. They are a fairly slim cut but have a slim top block, so measure a pair of jeans you have the Iron Heart way of measuring (pictures available on their website) and then go from there. You will get no stretch out of the thighs, expecially with the XHS's, and this has been mine, as well as many others issues with Iron Heart's slim cuts, the thigh sizing. Because if you don't get the thigh right, then it may be too tight for the rise to fit, then you have an entire top block that doesn't fit your body right. Hope this helps. 

post #5816 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jompso View Post

I know this wasn't directed towards me but I thought I'd offer my two cents. It's important with the 666-xhs to get the thigh sizing right and go from there. They are a fairly slim cut but have a slim top block, so measure a pair of jeans you have the Iron Heart way of measuring (pictures available on their website) and then go from there. You will get no stretch out of the thighs, expecially with the XHS's, and this has been mine, as well as many others issues with Iron Heart's slim cuts, the thigh sizing. Because if you don't get the thigh right, then it may be too tight for the rise to fit, then you have an entire top block that doesn't fit your body right. Hope this helps. 

Thanks, that's definitely helpful. If they're slim through the hips and thighs, does it affect the functionality/accessibility of the front pockets? I have pretty big hands, and that can be a serious issue for me.

It almost sounds like it might be safer to go with the 634s and see if Railcar Fine Goods will undertake the herculean task of tapering them if I want a slimmer leg opening.
post #5817 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post


Thanks, that's definitely helpful. If they're slim through the hips and thighs, does it affect the functionality/accessibility of the front pockets? I have pretty big hands, and that can be a serious issue for me.

It almost sounds like it might be safer to go with the 634s and see if Railcar Fine Goods will undertake the herculean task of tapering them if I want a slimmer leg opening.

Yes, you will definitely have a hard time getting into the pockets if they are really slim in the top block. 634s may be a better option if the sizing doesn't work out for you. I do know of someone on the iron heart boards that has had the XHS's tapered so it is possible, I would just double check with them to see if they have machinery necessary (if its just a union special needed then they probably do) to take on those monsters. I would also check if they can do the entire taper from the inner thigh seam so you can still maintain the outer thigh selvage id (if thats important to you). 

post #5818 of 6021
Iron Heart Indigo Dyed Waffle Fabric Shirts & Heavy Weight Jersey Knit "For Comfort" Shirts

We've just received a few new Iron Heart shirts including new colors of one our most popular shirts from last year.

First up we have a new indigo-dyed shirt made of a wild "waffle" fabric made of 100% cotton. The fabric has taken on the indigo dye in an interesting way and shows quite a bit of character even in it's new unworn state. Once the color starts to drop off in the high-friction areas this thing is going to look wild (in a good way).

One of our most popular shirts last year was the black jersey knit "For Comfort" shirt and we're happy to announce that Iron Heart has now produced them in gray and navy. These are a solid year round shirt that can be used as an overshirt with a tee or another shirt underneath or just worn as a shirt alone.

All three of these shirts along with a full restock of the 301s (now with showing selvedge ID), 634s, 461, Beatle Busters, 9634s, and all jackets and vests have hit all Self Edge stores. Check the online store for full spec lists, measurements, and size charts.

Shop Iron Heart Online

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post #5819 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jompso View Post

Yes, you will definitely have a hard time getting into the pockets if they are really slim in the top block. 634s may be a better option if the sizing doesn't work out for you. I do know of someone on the iron heart boards that has had the XHS's tapered so it is possible, I would just double check with them to see if they have machinery necessary (if its just a union special needed then they probably do) to take on those monsters. I would also check if they can do the entire taper from the inner thigh seam so you can still maintain the outer thigh selvage id (if thats important to you). 

Rad, thanks for the info. Sounds like the 666 cut wouldn't work for me. Railcar Fine Goods only does inseam tapering, so they're probably the best bet if they think they can handle it.
post #5820 of 6021
Quote:
Originally Posted by notwithit View Post


Rad, thanks for the info. Sounds like the 666 cut wouldn't work for me. Railcar Fine Goods only does inseam tapering, so they're probably the best bet if they think they can handle it.

Yea, they are beasts, probably best you check with them first before you make your purchase. I know that when Iron Heart was actually making them, there was problems with the sewing needles combusting. And if you like to cuff your jeans and show off the selvage seam, you should check to see if they can taper just from the inner thigh seam. I am not familiar with the ways of tailoring, so I have no clue how its done, but you should check so you don't lose the selvage id (if that is even an issue for you). 

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