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Self Edge SF/NY/LA/PDX - Japanese Denim & More (Iron Heart, 3sixteen, Flat Head, Strike Gold... - Page 346

post #5176 of 5883
Roy's Jeans & The Cone Mills Video - Straight & Narrow Fits

Earlier this year we took a trip to Greensboro (North Carolina) with Roy Slaper to experience the production process of a new denim that was designed from the ground up by Roy himself. We took Kellen Dengler, our videographer from NYC, with us to shoot the process, we felt it wasn't fair to keep it under wraps. At the oldest denim mill in the world, this is the story of Roy's new fabric.
This video was shot in 1080p High Definition, it's best viewed in full-screen HD mode with the volume turned way up.

http://vimeo.com/selfedge/selfedgeingreensboro


Roy is back with a restock of the release that sold out in seconds in March. This long overdue set of jeans is made up of a custom fabric from Cone Mills made exactly to Roy's specs. This is the first time in over three decades that Cone has produced a loomstate unsanforized fabric for anybody, and therefore we feel that this is history in the making.

The denim is a loomstate unsanforized indigo denim that clocks in at 14.5oz per square yard in it's raw state. The denim is made of American cotton and is 100% pure indigo dyed in the darkest shade Cone produces.
Technically, the construction of the denim.. the warp has multiple sized (engineered) slub yarns and the weft has large rough spun (non-engineered) yarn. It weighs 14.5 in loomstate and approximately 16.25oz after a hot water soak. Roy broke three of his key machines on this run and had to improve them to deal with the heavier denim.
The fabric hand is smooth and tight. Roy had Cone pack as many picks per inch (46 in 6.4 gauge yarn) as could be done without the loom blowing out and therefore achieved the tight weave he was after. There is a sound to the denim, after its been worn a few weeks - when you rustle it, that's somewhere between suede and oil cloth. This is tough fabric.
The look is streaky and it appears grey-ish at first. After rinsing and a few weeks of wear, it starts to change character as the white hairs formed by the fill yarns wear off leaving the streakiness to mellow and the shade to become a more rich, classic indigo.

The jeans themselves come in two fits, both a slim and a straight leg. Both silhouettes are slightly modified from past iterations of Roy's straight and slim fits.

With the RS04 and RN04 a few changes have been made from past models. Never content with just "doing another run", Roy has improved and tweaked everything surrounding the production of these jeans. The stitching of the body is even finer and more accurate and we love the fully lined back pockets and coin pocket. The rear pocket hems now have a hand-done welt in them (slightly thicker than the last run), mimicking the vintage style belt-loops found on many of the best Japanese brands. Last but not least the back pockets have been slightly reduced in size from past versions.

Jeans from Roy don't come often and we can't keep them in stock as long as we'd like, so if you've been waiting for a pair, now is the time.

Both of these models will be released at noon (local time) on Saturday June 2nd at all three Self Edge stores. These will also be available via our online store at 10am (PDT) on June 2nd.

Roy's Jeans at Self Edge Online

Roy Jean RS04 - Cone Project - Straight Leg
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Roy Jean RN04 - Cone Project - Narrow Leg
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post #5177 of 5883

Hey Kiya,

I'm new to the whole raw denim thing, and found this pair on your site for sale (http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=831) and just have a few questions about them.

 

1.)  I have always worn size 28 or 29 jeans, so I was surprised to find that when I measured my waistline was actually 30.5 inches. The sizing on the size 29 of these jeans seems pretty generous - I have measured a pair of jeans that do fit me according to the method on your site and come up with a 29 - and I have noticed some other members on this forum sizing down on a pair of Roys. Will these fit me? I was assuming that as they are unsanforized I could wear them while soaking to achieve a good fit...

 

2.) How durable will these be? Unlike some of the guys on here I don't have to worry about motorcycle crashes, but I want to feel confident I can get muddy in these without doing them harm - as a young guy I can't afford a $400 pair of jeans every 6 months! How long are these likely to last? Is it a better idea to save up for a pair of iron hearts or flatheads?

 

Thanks for all your help.

post #5178 of 5883
New Iron Heart Wabash, Wallet Chains, & 301s Slim Cut Jean Restock

Just received the new version of Iron Heart's wabash shirt, a new woven leather wallet chain, and a full restock of all their jeans.

The new wabash is similar to the past version but the body length has been increased by about 1.5" and so have the sleeve lengths.

This new woven leather wallet chain is pretty wild, to prevent stretching out or breaking the inside of the leather weave is a steel cable that runs the length of the chain. This cable gives the chain a nice heft and feel to it, we wouldn't expect anything less from Iron Heart.

Along with these items we've received a full restock of all Iron Heart jeans including the 301s slim cut. We've also received a full restock of all Iron Heart belts, jackets, and vests. All these items are available now at all three Self Edge stores and in our online store.

Shop Iron Heart Online

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post #5179 of 5883
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh123 View Post


Josh,

You'd be a size 30 in all of Roy's jeans, check out the RN04 and RS04 models on our site. The one you sent a link to will not be restocked. Once you received the jeans email me or PM me and let me know how much room you have in the waist and i'll be able to tell you how to soak your jeans.
post #5180 of 5883
Flat Head & Real Japan Blues Summer Collections

We've received a new selection of great new summer shirts, tees, and sneakers from Flat Head & Real Japan Blues.

From Flat Head we've gotten in some of their new flatlock tees with contrast colored ribbing, a newly developed red chambray fabric shirt, a wild t-shirt with a collar, a two-button short sleeved henley, and a short sleeve pin-check shirt.
Along with all these new shirts we finally got Flat Head's low-top sneakers, one of the only sneakers we've ever seen which are 100% made in Japan. In addition to the shirts and sneakers we received a full restock of all Flat Head jeans, bracelets, denim jackets, and hoodies.

Real Japan Blues brings us a slew of new shirts including their Windowpane fabric in both gray and black. This shirt was available five years ago and we're glad they've redone it, the fabric is a blend of Hemp and Cotton and feels great on and looks amazing up close. Along with the Windowpane shirt we have a short sleeve shirt in a fabric only RJB can create, making the fabric was a two part process which was very labor intensive, something that not many mills would be willing on doing.
Along with these shirts we've received a full restock of the 106BSP and 103BSP jeans.

All these new items and jean restocks are available now at all three Self Edge stores and in our online store. The Flat Head sneakers are available at SENY only and in our online store. Check the online store for more photos, measurements, full spec lists, and more.


Shop Flat Head Online

Shop Real Japan Blues Online

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post #5181 of 5883
Why is that tee 190? That's getting a little outrageous
post #5182 of 5883
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh123 View Post

Get a pair of iron heart and never look back
post #5183 of 5883
Josh, flathead doesn't last any longer than any other pair of jeans. A friend of mine had a pair and they ripped (at the crotch, where it typically rips) within 4 months of wearing. Flatheads just fade really well.
Roy's are nice, but the whole one person made thing is a self-indulgence. It's cool, don't get me wrong, but it's adds little other than some existential authenticity you may find is lacking in mass produced denim. If you are looking for a denim that fades really well, cone mills really isn't your best bet imho.

Ironhearts are the best. They have great cuts and the denim is phenomenal. Their construction is the best. They'll last forever. And they're not just tough as hell, they have a soft feel to them even though they're so heavy. anything over 15 ounces is hot in the summer, but I still wear these all the time:

http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=599

Amazing texture. They start out black and fade to blue.
post #5184 of 5883

Thanks for the advice everyone - I think I will save up a bit more and get a pair of iron hearts.

post #5185 of 5883
Stevenson Loopwheeled Blank Pocket Tees, Linen Shirt, & Jean Restocks

The final summer delivery from Stevenson is a loopwheeled blank pocket t-shirt that comes in a 2-pack and a short sleeve linen shirt.

The t-shirts are tubular knit on a loopwheeling machine with one chest pocket that's attached with a blind-stitch. The yarn for the fabric is made of Giza cotton which is extremely soft and strong and comes with a rayon neck-tag. The pocket design on these tees alone is a work of art. These t-shirts come two to a pack and come packaged in a vintage style undergarment box.

Along with these tees we've received a very comfortable linen shirt with an awesome pocket design and large shell buttons. The fabric for this shirt is also a Stevenson original.

With these two new items we've received a full restock of both Stevenson jean models and a small restock of their indigo dyed hoodies. Check the online store for hi-res photos, measurements, and spec lists of all these items.

Shop Stevenson Online

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post #5186 of 5883
New Iron Heart Shirts & Jean Restocks

We've just received two solid new Iron Heart shirts and a full restock of all their jeans, belts, jackets, vests, bracelets, and wallets.

One of the shirts is the new Mock Twist Gray Chambray shirt, this new fabric has a nice heft to it and while not as heavy as their super heavy chambray fabric it still feels heavier than your average chambray. Great details include selvedge down the inner placket, chainstitch run-off, and felled inner seams.

The next shirt is an 8oz indigo denim shirt that's a great summer-weight fabric for those that want a denim shirt but don't want something rigid and heavy. Great fit on this one, and a bit slimmer than previous shirts.

These new shirts along with all the restocks listed above are available now at all three Self Edge stores and in our online store. Check the online store for more info on the shirts, hi-res photos, and measurements.

Shop Iron Heart Online

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post #5187 of 5883
Looking to replace my 3Sixteen 10bsp. After a year, they fit *almost* perfect. While they're a 1/2 inch too tight in the crotch, I could live with a similar fit. How would the 11bsp compare in fit? I'm a 30 in the 10bsp, what should I try in the 11? Any other suggestions for a similar (or very slightly roomier) fit?
post #5188 of 5883
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTK View Post

Looking to replace my 3Sixteen 10bsp. After a year, they fit *almost* perfect. While they're a 1/2 inch too tight in the crotch, I could live with a similar fit. How would the 11bsp compare in fit? I'm a 30 in the 10bsp, what should I try in the 11? Any other suggestions for a similar (or very slightly roomier) fit?

The 11BSP is going to be more roomy than your 10BSP jean, especially in the mid-leg area. I would go with a size 30 in the 11BSP, we've got a couple in that size left in our online store now. I think your best bet is the 11BSP, wait till you see the denim on these jeans in person.
post #5189 of 5883
Thanks, Kiya! Are they still a slimmer fit? Also, how wearable is the 18 oz denim in the summer?
post #5190 of 5883
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTK View Post

Thanks, Kiya! Are they still a slimmer fit? Also, how wearable is the 18 oz denim in the summer?

That denim softens up to be very comfortable pretty quickly.
But slimmer? The 10BSP and 11BSP are straight leg fits, not slim.
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