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Bemberg v. Ermazine v. Buggy-lined

post #1 of 7
9/15/11 at 4:02pm
Thread Starter 
I suppose it is obvious that buggy-lined is cooler than ermazine which is cooler than bemberg, but by how much? For example, if a jacket is "comfortable" at 65F with a bemberg lining, up to what temperature would it be "comfortable" with an ermazine lining?

I am also interested in the tradeoffs. For example, is ermazine less durable than bemberg? Does it not come in as many cool colors?

What about other lining choices? AFAIK, silk has been almost completely replaced by bemberg. Most people say that this is strictly a matter of performance but I hear the occasional grumble that it is really down to cost.
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post #2 of 7
9/16/11 at 10:35am
Thread Starter 
confused.gif

Wow. I guess SF really has changed. Once upon a time, there would have been at least thirty responses to a question like this and all from people with relevant experience. To settle the argument, somebody, probably Vox, would have commissioned three identical jackets with different linings.

Sigh . . .

Oh well, I guess I'll go post in a wedding suit thread, instead.
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post #3 of 7
9/16/11 at 10:53am
You're worried about 65?

Worry about the lining after it makes sense to switch to summer fabrics.
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post #4 of 7
9/16/11 at 10:56am
This is far too subjective. More often than not its not the heat that hurts, its the humidity.

Buggy works be allowing increased airflow, and less cloth trapping air. Erm vs Bem is almost moot, the difference is so slight that most people wouldn't even notice.
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post #5 of 7
9/16/11 at 5:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhood View Post

Erm vs Bem is almost moot, the difference is so slight that most people wouldn't even notice.

I don't understand why there would be a difference, viscose is viscose. The weave would be more important than type of viscose used.
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post #6 of 7
9/19/11 at 11:38am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhood View Post

This is far too subjective. More often than not its not the heat that hurts, its the humidity.

I'm not sure it is really subjective. We regularly discuss how much hotter/cooler different fabric weights are. What I'm trying to figure out is whether, say, an unlined 14 oz fresco is "equivalent" to a lined 10 oz fresco.
Quote:
Buggy works be allowing increased airflow, and less cloth trapping air. Erm vs Bem is almost moot, the difference is so slight that most people wouldn't even notice.

This, on the other hand, is exactly the kind of opinion I was looking for. Thanks. I had heard that Ermazine is supposed to be a cooler lining that Bemberg and IIRC, Vox prefers Ermazine linings, though I'm not sure why. I don't have an ermazine-lined jacket so I really have no idea.
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post #7 of 7
9/19/11 at 12:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bounder View Post

confused.gif

Wow. I guess SF really has changed. Once upon a time, there would have been at least thirty responses to a question like this and all from people with relevant experience. To settle the argument, somebody, probably Vox, would have commissioned three identical jackets with different linings.

Sigh . . .

Oh well, I guess I'll go post in a wedding suit thread, instead.

Entirely correct - a change not for the better.
I rather suspect that this is a rationalisation too far and the difference is minimal for most in most situations. I always have a satin in mine and (in the UK) have never found this an issue.

The greater issue is to wear the coat or not.


PS

PLEASE spare us a wedding thread and certainly don't start another 'i need to buy my first suit' or similar!
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