I have done a lot of work on my own denim to repair blowouts etc with very good results. I don't even own any raw selvedge jeans going thru an extended wear period to develop fades. I had a much cheaper pair of gap bootcut jeans with a pre faded look (yeah, yeah, yeah I know but my skill in the sewing room and all my equipment was a more important investment than $150+ JEANS...for now). Anyway, these jeans fit me when I was a 36 waist. I since outgrew them up to a 38. They were too small in the seat and waist plus they developed a blowout in the lower part of the seat/crotch area. I have a prominent seat so it is definitely an area of high stress/tension. I repaired them by ripping the crotch out completely, fixing the blowout by patching and using a back and forth straight stitch with 2 different color threads running thru a topstitching needle. I then installed a crotch gusset to give me more room in the seat. I then cut V's down the side of the hips between the rear pockets and the sideseams and inserted little gussets there. The jeans were effectively converted from a 36 to a 38. I wear them everyday and the repairs easily hold up.
This picture is the blowout repair. I don't have a fancy darning machine. This is a 50 some yr old household singer. I used the patch because the holes were huge. I used a navy thread with a thread that is color swirled with different hues of blue. I could've used the Gutermman denim thread but when I wear these, this repair is at the base of my seat and really can't be seen. All in all, there's no patchwork effect. The patch is concealed by the threads and is pretty close to the color of the fade. I basically re-wove the long grain. The patch extends into the weaker areas beyond the tear so that the strength of the repair transitions better into the weaker area of denim that isn't repaired. This will prevent further blowouts.
Anyone with a basic sewing machine that has a reverse gear on it can do this.
