The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 66

Looks to me as though your jacket shrank upwards - gorge, lapel, breastpocket, buttonstance, length all went north.

No matter what you alter here, it won't be a flattering, well fitted jacket. It is way too short and the button, pocket and breast pocket are way too high. Nothing can change this. Jacket is way too short as well. You have an erect posture and prominent seat that causes a sway back. Low right shoulder. Sleeves are not cut to match the armhole so you have the untidy wrinkles on the back of the sleeves. Trousers would be better shorter to work with the taper.

Picture a horizontal/parellel line around your waist line. Take a string from the nape of your neck, over your shoulder and chest to the waist and another straight down your back to the waist. When your posture is erect the string running down your back will be shorter and the string running over your chest to the waist is longer. If you had a stooped posture it would be the opposite. Longer along the back and shorter along the front.

Since you have an erect posture the back of the jacket needs to be shorter in relation to the front length of the jacket. If this were being made for you a tailor could drop the fronts down making them longer due to outlets at the front shoulder. This is a finished garment with no outlet to lengthen the front. All a tailor can do is make the back shorter. Two ways to do this. Open the sleeves and shoulder and make the back part shorter from the top of the back part. You have to do it this way if there is a horizontal pattern in the cloth.
The other way is to open the 2 side seams and shorten the back part at the hem and then attach the back part again.

Either way it is very technical and it changes the size and shape of the armhole so it effects the fit of the sleeves, etc. Finished jackets are very difficult to alter for posture adjustments and few tailors want to fool with it due to limitations of what you can do since the garment is finished and few outlets are available. The results may not be 100%. Cutting and fitting for your posture is the benefit to some MTM programs or having something custom made for you. It makes all the difference.

delete. edited my post below. sorry.
Edited by doogoshly - 5/10/12 at 10:20pm

I really don't understand this logic; surely every camera made this century has some sort of timer function you can use?

Go on make me feel old. It took me a while to remember this wasn't the 19xx century

honestly didn't think of that somehow. oops well hopefully third time's the charm. sorry for all the stupid posts. again i really appreciate y'all's help. my concern is mostly with the jacket if there's stuff that should be done to the shoulders and waist of the jacket. i'm thinking the shoulders are fine. the waist could be taken in but i'm hesitant. i figure if i have $75 to spend on alterations, it'd behoove me to get the best fitting suit i can. thank you!

if it's at all helpful, i'm a 42 chest, 32 waist, 5'10", 180lbs.




Edited by doogoshly - 5/10/12 at 10:25pm

Hi everyone,

I posted earlier asking for advice about a suit fit. Someone suggested that the shoulders of a 38R didn't flatter me, which I'm not sure I agree with, but it caused me to pick up a couple of other sizes to compare.

For the record, I need this suit mostly for a relatively conservative environment, so keep that in mind. My main question is which represents a better starting point for tailoring: 38R or 39L? A 38L would probably be best, but Brooks Brothers doesn't make one. My main concern is that the shoulders may be a touch too big on the 39L, but the length looks better to my eye. I also have a 39R which I didn't take pictures of, but from the looks of it there's no reason to go shorter than the 39L IMO.

Don't mind the odd pants; I'm not really worried about having the suit pants altered.

39L:







38R:



My inclination is to go with the 39L, but I'm not 100% sure. The length looks much better, and everything else can be altered. How does the shoulder look to you all? Should I consider having it narrowed, or start hitting the gym extra hard? Money isn't really an issue with respect to tailoring, it's just a matter of whether it's worth the trouble and complexity of shoulder alterations.


Alternatively, I am open to just scrapping this cut and finding something else, but I really don't know where to start. I like the Fitzgerald cut as a somewhat slim but conservative style, and I'm not really familiar with other brands with similar styling.

Thanks!
Edited by erutha95 - 5/10/12 at 7:17pm

The 39L looks much better, in the length and in the shoulders.

EYOO
you know that indochino will recut a new jacket for you.
when you send the jacket back they will need your instructions and
also you should send them the same pictures you have shown here.

you got it too nicola? 12 years and i still have to stop and think first.

i don't mean to bump this, but with indochino's 14 day policy, i just wanna see if the experts think i need to do anything so i can get the ball rolling if i do need to send it back. i updated with proper pics a few posts above.

Have had a number of coats cut, but I noticed that I haven't had to deal with the piling/creases beneath the collar as I do this one. Was wondering if this is to be expected from a bespoke coat, or is this normal.

Bear in mind that this is my usual standing posture and the way I've been standing when the coat was cut.

I'll post comparisons of the fit with other jackets I've had cut.

Please help. I need alteration advice. I took two Canali suits for alterations today at a local tailor. I am a little concerned because he did not take any measurements. He simply marked certain areas with chalk. I did not know what to expect so I thought it was normal. The second suit however felt fuller and required the sides taken in. The time he wanted to move the button to the right to make the suit fit. That would have lined the lapels poorly. When I asked that the lapels would look funny, he decided to make adjustment from under the armpit. Since I have no experience with alteration, I need your help dear SF members. Is this normal or should I not take the risk and go to someone like Bhambi's or Wilfred's in the city (recommended in this forum)? I'm in Long Island and I am willing to make the trip to the city.

I think that's a good idea.  It will give your look more 'line' and accentuate your height dropping visual heft.  You look great already but that alteration will upgrade your look.