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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 61

post #901 of 5092

 

 

I purchased this Brioni for Delisi jacket used.  Unfortunately, I don't love what I can only describe as "hips" on the jacket.  Is there any way for this to be altered to something more streamline?  I know the sleeves need to be shortened as well.

 

Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

photo (11).jpg

 

 

 

 

post #902 of 5092

When getting a shirt made, is there a consensus regarding how much to add to actual chest, waist, and hip measurements? For a slim fit shirt, I have seen adding 4.5 in to chest, 4 to waist, and 3.5 to hips. This, to me, doesn't seem slim enough. Clearly, I can modify to my liking, but is there any established standard that I can appeal to for a slim fitting shirt (or perhaps, given my previous comment, an extra slim fit shirt)?


Edited by JackFlash - 4/16/12 at 12:14pm
post #903 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyj View Post



I purchased this Brioni for Delisi jacket used.  Unfortunately, I don't love what I can only describe as "hips" on the jacket.  Is there any way for this to be altered to something more streamline?  I know the sleeves need to be shortened as well.

Thank you in advance for your suggestions. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x572px-LL-456bb7d6_photo11.jpeg

Did you have the waist taken in?
post #904 of 5092

I did not have the waist taken in.  I wasn't sure if the "hip" problem would still exist.

post #905 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackFlash View Post

When getting a shirt made, is there a consensus regarding how much to add to actual chest, waist, and hip measurements? For a slim fit shirt, I have seen adding 4.5 in to chest, 4 to waist, and 3.5 to hips. This, to me, doesn't seem slim enough. Clearly, I can modify to my liking, but is there any established standard that I can appeal to for a slim fitting shirt (or perhaps, given my previous comment, an extra slim fit shirt)?

I usually add + 4 at the chest and waist but you can go slimmer. Would not recommend going less than +3. You also have to consider the shape of your chest and back. If you have a full chest or round back with larger shoulder blades you have to allow some ease for that.
post #906 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyj View Post

I did not have the waist taken in.  I wasn't sure if the "hip" problem would still exist.

Did you buy this new? Sometimes when you buy clothes online from a third party they have been altered and the results are less than stellar and the suit gets flipped.

First thought is the sides were taken in but not thru the seat area. Maybe the tailor didn't want to fool with the vents and left the bottom full. Side and back views would help determine more clearly.

The skirt can be reduced in a couple ways. If the back part is fine and you could find a tailor to do it you would remove/open part of the pocket and reduce the hip curve along the seam that runs thru the pocket to the hem. This is the ideal but unlikely someone would want to do it and the cost would be very high.

Second way would be to open the sides and reduce the fronts only, that pulls the hip area in. Third way is to take in both the side and the back. The side and back view would show what method would work best.
post #907 of 5092

I bought this used.  I'll post some side and back pics when I have the jacket with me.  

 

Do you have an tailor recommendation in the Bay Area, CA?

post #908 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyj View Post

I bought this used.  I'll post some side and back pics when I have the jacket with me.  

Do you have an tailor recommendation in the Bay Area, CA?

I would have bet this was so. Don't know anyone there but there are many threads here about tailors in your area. Use the search function
post #909 of 5092

Thank you for the prompt and helpful response. Most of the chest/waist/hips allowances I have seen allow more room in the chest, less in the waist, and even less in the hips. Is this because there would be more movement and pulling in the chest than the other two areas? It makes more sense to me just to go with a set allowance (as you seem to suggest at 4 in for both chest and waist), though, just trying to see the other side. 
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


I usually add + 4 at the chest and waist but you can go slimmer. Would not recommend going less than +3. You also have to consider the shape of your chest and back. If you have a full chest or round back with larger shoulder blades you have to allow some ease for that.


 

post #910 of 5092
Will Boehlke of A Suitable Wardrobe recommends Franz Custom Tailors, 166 Geary. 415-986-2044. I have not used this tailor, but the recommendation comes from a source with plenty of experience.
post #911 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Agree the sleeves are too long but I can't make out any details to comment on anything else, suit looks too dark on my screen.

Sorry about that, let's see if these are better.

467
467
Wow, my mis-matched shoulder heights are very noticeable in that second shot.


I appreciate your help.
post #912 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyj View Post

I bought this used.  I'll post some side and back pics when I have the jacket with me.  

Do you have an tailor recommendation in the Bay Area, CA?

Thinking this jacket may not be a big deal to adjust. The jacket was probably nipped in to give more waist suppression and altered to the previous owner. First step is have a tailor open the lining and see how the jacket was altered and gets proper diagnosis. May be a simple solution.
post #913 of 5092

Here are some additional pictures from the side and back.  Thank you!

photo.JPG

photo (1).JPG

photo (2).JPG

 

post #914 of 5092

No fit pic, but a general quick question if you don't mind.

 

Looking at a suit which has working button cuffs. Is it particle/possible for a good tailor to take the sleeve length in from the shoulder without much of a problem?

 

Thanks very much in advance!!!

 

post #915 of 5092

I only own one suit, which I've pictured below. This is also the best fitted shirt that I think I have. I don't think either the suit or the shirt look good on me, and I would appreciate some feedback on what I should look for in future clothes.

 

I don't know of any places to buy slim enough fitting clothing for me. Express is as close as I can get, but I think their suits are likely not worth the hundreds of dollars they charge. I'm thinking that I may try a suit off of ModernTailor, but I'm scared I'll just be throwing away money on more clothes that don't fit.

 

This suit is an Alfani Red. I think it is a 38R. The shirt is an extra slim fit 15/33 from Brooks Brothers.

 

Here are the things that I think are wrong but please correct me and add more:

* Shirt is too short. The salesperson said this was the right length, but I don't think it is.

* The shirt is baggy looking on me, but I don't know specific reasons why/what I should look for different.

* I think the pants are too short. They don't have any break (I think I want a slight break), and I have to wear them pretty low to get as far as they do

* The pants are too tight, partially because of the lowness mentioned above. I think this is causing the shirt to bunch up more.

* I think my suit is too tight somewhere around the chest. I had had it altered with what the tailor suggested, but I think she did too much. I think this causes the lapels to go out from my chest (side view)?

* My posture is terrible in these pictures....not a problem with the clothes, but I need to ensure not to stand like this.

 

Sorry for the varying quality of pictures, but I think it shows everything.

 

Front of ShirtLeft of ShirtRight of Shirtjacket_buttoned_front.pngJacket Buttoned Rightsuit_left.JPGsuit_buttoned.JPG

 

I tried another suit on in a store last weekend. I think it fits about the same as mine above, but I think the armholes are too low causing the bunching at the shoulders?

 

suit_in_store_arms_up.jpgsuit_in_store.jpg

 

Thank you very much for any feedback, and I really appreciate everything that has been written in this thread before. It has been incredibly informative.
 

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