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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 51

post #751 of 4761
Quote:
Originally Posted by khoadpham View Post



Question, why was my post just simply passed over?

on the grey . shorten the sleeves.
the hips appear too tight, hope fully there is some cloth to let out.
on the black . shorten the sleeves. cant see any thing on the body.

sorry to delay you but we are trying to handle many things like,
earning a living for one.
post #752 of 4761
What is the standard cost of adding working button holes to a blazer that currently has unfinished sleeves? It's black fleece and when I stopped by the local BB store (after calling twice to confirm cost would be $10-$16 according to two different SAs) the in house tailor said $96 and it would take at least three weeks. BF in San Francisco said $75 but it's done by Franz (local tailor) so I would just take it to him directly. Is this in line? I thought it would be a little less?
post #753 of 4761
Quote:
Originally Posted by kennon View Post

Hello!
Thanks so much for this thread! I just picked up my first bespoke suit and shirt from Spoon Tailor in San Francisco. Pics below (sorry, there are a lot):

Fully canvassed suit with base charcoal fabric ($850):

350x467px-LL-0bb35495_DSCF6738768x1024.jpeg350x467px-LL-04f6ddbb_DSCF6742768x1024.jpeg
350x467px-LL-8788c99d_DSCF6745768x1024.jpeg350x467px-LL-b0ca957b_DSCF6746768x1024.jpeg

350x372px-LL-e0f9f0ee_DSCF6761964x1024.jpeg350x405px-LL-62a03989_DSCF6762885x1024.jpeg

Shirt with base cotton fabric ($95):

350x466px-LL-a29fddcb_DSCF6750768x1024.jpeg350x440px-LL-d2b6820e_DSCF6749768x1024.jpeg
298x530px-LL-c2e936c7_DSCF6747768x1024.jpeg237x506px-LL-44e53a39_DSCF6748768x1024.jpeg

There's something that seems off about the proportions of the jacket, but I cant put my finger on it. Perhaps the gorge is too high? The jacket bottom too flared?
On the pants, something funky seems to be going on in the rear. Also, it seems either the shirt sleeves are too long (normal for french cuffs?) or the jacket sleeves are slightly short. In addition, The shirt seems a little too roomy? The shop owner said it is difficult to tighten the waist because I have a deep arch in my back.

Lastly, some closeups of oddities in the jacket. First, when the jacket is at rest, the collar seems to pop out 1/2 inch from my shirt:

350x467px-LL-58a25626_DSCF6751768x1024.jpeg

Lastly, there are many creases on the front of the jacket that appear to be due to the interior canvassing. Theyre a bit difficult to see, but quite obvious in normal lighting. I pressed the suit again, but they still remain:

350x467px-LL-fd1531f6_DSCF6752768x1024.jpeg350x467px-LL-a94a5a15_DSCF6753768x1024.jpeg
350x467px-LL-54ec7382_DSCF6754768x1024.jpeg350x467px-LL-0476227c_DSCF6757768x1024.jpeg

Thank you so much for this thread!

the jacket is short, 1 inch in front, 1 and 1/2 inches in back. the sleeves need to be adjusted evenly. 1/2" linen to show.
the sides are fine. but your right shoulder is lower that is why the collar is gaping on the right..
the more you press the front the worse those impressions will be. that may have been the problem in the first place. the off presser [he does the finish press] may have pressed too hard.
the trousers should be tried on with the belt cinched up on the waist,. then we can get an idea of what is wrong.
the tailor is right about the shirt. some folks have a more hollow back at the waist.
thats where the back darts come in.
post #754 of 4761
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevent View Post

What is the standard cost of adding working button holes to a blazer that currently has unfinished sleeves? It's black fleece and when I stopped by the local BB store (after calling twice to confirm cost would be $10-$16 according to two different SAs) the in house tailor said $96 and it would take at least three weeks. BF in San Francisco said $75 but it's done by Franz (local tailor) so I would just take it to him directly. Is this in line? I thought it would be a little less?

the $75 is a bargain,grab it. i hope he will not do it by machine.
post #755 of 4761
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

the $75 is a bargain,grab it. i hope he will not do it by machine.

Thanks for the info. Franz does everything by hand I'm pretty sure, he does work for Neiman and Barneys as well I believe
post #756 of 4761
Quote:
Originally Posted by u8myburger View Post

I wish I saw this thread earlier instead of making a new thread on the mainboard lol...
Anyway... I just wanted some feedback on this OTR suit I bought. Something that concerns me is the fabric that is bunching up behind my arm. Keep in mind that this suit hasn't been altered in any way. The trousers are a 38w, but waist measures 35w. Would i need to taper the legs? and would i need to take the crotch or seat in after taking them in? Only asking because i've only purchased suit separates in the past.
And last but not least, keep it or return it?
21btzf4.jpg
34s1m2q.jpg
bhique.jpg
2u9sd20.jpg
34jfamc.jpg
214771l.jpg

a size 38 trouser with a 35 waist. sounds like its been altered before.
take a look at how the trouser fits over your calves. its so tight that you
cant afford to taper the legs.
also the coat is too short.
nuff said.
post #757 of 4761
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

elev8
at that price, thats a bargan.

I thought I might have gotten pased over smile.gif Thanks for the reassurance. I agree, but I just had to hear it from someone else. Thanks again!
post #758 of 4761
Quote:
Originally Posted by nandreetta View Post

Hello,

 

I can't believe what luck I have that a resource like this is available. I'm trying to nail down a wedding suit and I ordered two sizes of the Benjamin Sartorial Granoro suit. The sizes are Euro 52 (41/42R) and Euro 54 (43/44R). I took them to two different local tailors and got two different opinions as to which one to keep and alter and which to return.

 

Personally, I feel I might be between sizes in the shoulders, but the smaller fits closest in shoulders and chest but pulls slightly at the waist. The larger could be too wide at the shoulder, I can fit a fist in the chest relatively easily, and would need to be suppressed in general. Regarding trousers, I can't even button the smaller pair and there might be enough material to let out in the waist and seat to make them work. The larger pair is a half inch big in the waist and, I think, needs to be slimmed through the seat, hips, legs, etc. I'm not concerned about trouser hem or jacket cuffs at this point. I just need to know which to keep or whether I should return both and try a different company with a different cut (in my current budget, the next I'd try is SuitSupply).

 

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer and please let me know if my pictures are insufficient.

 

First, the smaller:

 

42R - Front

 

42R - back

 

42R - side

 

And an attempt to show the shoulder width by moving my arm six inches away from my hip. The difference in this between the sizes is more noticeable in person:

 

42R - arm

 

Next, the larger suit:

 

44R - front

 

44R - back

 

44R - side

 

44R - arm


I figure I'll bump this to the end since it has been five days and I need to return one of these sizes in the near future. Any opinions on fit?

 

I still think the smaller jacket fits the shoulders best, but seems to pull a bit at the waist. However, I would probably need to let out the trousers as much as possible to have any hope of fitting their waist. Better to keep the larger trousers and slim the seat, hips, thighs, etc? When paired with the smaller jacket, they look out of proportion as is. I'd be grateful for any help as local tailors contradict each other.

 

Thanks again.

 

post #759 of 4761
Get the smaller size if they can make the trouser work.
post #760 of 4761

First post here, hoping to enlist the help of you experts.

 

Picked this jacket up thrifting a few days ago, trying to figure out whether it's worth taking to the tailor or whether it should be passed along:

 

toronto2012031400295.jpg

467

445

 

1 - I know the sleeves will need to be lengthened, but what I'm trying to figure out is:

2 - Will a tailor be able to sufficiently alter the torso so that I will no longer look like the box-shaped man who (presumably) once own this jacket? I'd prefer something a bit slimmer..

3 - The jacket is marked a 42 (I usually wear a 38 or 40) but I think it fits ok in the shoulders/chest, someone correct me if I'm wrong? I'm relatively new at this.

4 - I apologize for the mess on the floor and the uggs. Not my room! only suitable mirror in the house

 

Thanks in advance!

post #761 of 4761

Thanks for the feedback, Despos. I'll revisit the local tailor to see how much material they can get out of the smaller trousers. Any particular alteration suggestions for the jacket? Am I right that it's too small in the waist or is it okay? Even though I feel it pulls and the two sides should close more below the button, there still seems to be extra fabric in the back picture. Are these adjusted independently?

post #762 of 4761
blech
try moving to the tutorials for more information. look for the title many ways to take in the sides of a jacket.
post #763 of 4761
Please give me feedback on this shirt. I think the sleeves are a tad long and tight in the arms but not enough to fret over. Overall seems very fitted.

j7Qxb2aab3sK8.JPG

jmoNi6XN4CpaM.JPG

Thanks.
post #764 of 4761
On 2nd thought I'm thinking this is too tight in the shoulders and chest. It's an OTR 15.75 (40). I wonder if a 16 will be better or still too small.

Here's a better photo:
jNt8gTzOPXjLN.jpg
post #765 of 4761
P.B.
is this shirt a rtw, or a m2m?
you say the collar is a 15.75. that sounds like a m2m.
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