Jacket shape looks fine. The sleeves may be a little too long - that is a function of personal taste.
Winston Tailors/ www.chippneckwear.com
I would like to ask for a fit and style advice. I'm currently experimenting with "higher" rise pants and I have hard time finding where they should sit. I suppose they should sit on natural waist - the narrowest part of my body (right below rib cage and right above hip/pelvic bones) - am I right? But it looks like too high to me.
Below is the photo of my new pants with 12.75" front rise. As you can see they sit on the curve of my "love handles" and they will slide down really easily while walking/sitting/etc... It's like putting pants on middle of the egg.
In photo below I've pulled pants higher (closer to my natural waist) by about 2.25". As you can see they do not sit on my natural waist, but they are on the top part of curve of my love handles.
Do you think I should increase rise by 2.25" like in image below or I should increase it even more? I would like to wear pants happily without them sliding down and I do not know how to solve this problem because I was used to wearing pants on top of my butt.
And also I would like to ask you for a style advice. I know that style is a personal thing - but I still hope there are some guidelines for proportions... Since I'm not used to higher rise (for me) pants - then I'm afraid that it will make my body disproportional. Can you please take a look at these two photos to compare the rise? What do you think about proportions? Do they suit my body? What about torso length? Is torso too short?
Thanks in advance.
Thank you. It's my first try, so I'll tweak measurements for sure.
Thanks for answer. Actually I would like to wear these pants comfortably without braces as well. I'm little bit confused with your advice about top of love handles and belly button.
Top of love handles - is where my natural waist starts - and it is too high as you wrote.
Belly button - these pants normally sit just below the belly button. So increasing rise by 0.75" will move them on top of belly button. But top of love handles is far away.
It's difficult to discern exactly what style you're going for--you got the vintage pleated, high-rise thing going on up top, but then the legs taper and break high like a more modern cut. Personally, I would go all in and add some room from the thigh down, and aim for at least a half-break over the shoe, which will make them flow and drape nicely. There'r some cats over at the Fedora Lounge that carry that look off very well.
Is there someplace I can purchase metal trouser side adjusters from online that ships to the US without ridiculous shipping fees? I found "Magi Buckles" on The Lining Company's website but shipping to the US was 20+ GBP! Cannot find a website/store to buy these from - my tailor doesn't have any that I like (too large, not intended for trousers) so she asked me to supply her some to add adjusters to a few pairs of pants I own. Also if someone has a great template for side-adjusters that she could use that'd be great - I'm going to probably draw/trace one for her and she's made them before but this is definitely a one-shot deal using the fabric left over after hemming my pants so I'd like to get it close to right the first time.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. The shirt had been washed two or three times prior to these photos. It's wrinkled because I took some of them after a day at work.
Left cuff doesn't have much extra room because I wear a dress watch on that hand. I was going to shorten the left sleeve a small amount and reduce the cuff on the right hand, hoping that would cause the sleeve to stop higher on the wrist. I can certainly ask for them both to be slightly shorter, though.
The neck is my biggest area of concern. I assume you're looking at the diagonal lines behind my neck. It seems that if I grasp the collar and pull it up and "forward" into my neck, the lines disappear. Would it help to shorten the height of the yoke behind the collar? I haven't asked about removing the split bias yoke. Do you think that's worth trying before adjusting the pattern?
Any suggestions for the chest/midsection? Will increasing the diameter from top to bottom help to eliminate any of the horizontal lines or bunched fabric near my armpits, or the diagonal lines downward from my pecs or near the bottom of the shirt? The close-ups from the rear would appear to show too much fabric there, but I'm no expert.