The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Cole22]

Just bought this 36R John Varvatos suit for cheap at Filene's. It's my first real suit and I want to get it tailored to fit well. Never had anything tailored before so I'm looking for some suggestions. I was thinking about having the pants taken in, the jacket waist taken in, pants hemmed of course... Also, the left lapel doesn't lay flat as you can see in the side pic.

I'm a skinny guy so I want it to be slim fit. Don't want to look like I'm wearing my dad's suit.

Any ideas, guys?



Thanks!

 

[demeis]

Cole

It is hard for me to see your photos but what I am seeing is this. The suit isn't a bad fit for you. Varvatos does run trimmer especially through the arms. I would say shorten sleeves, pinch in waist. also it looks baggy in the seat but hard to tell. From what I can see in the photo your lapel looks normal.

 

[sugarbutch]

Cole22, the jacket is too tight through the chest. Note the way the lapels bow outward instead of forming a straight-sided V. In profile, you can see the lapels popping out from your chest.

EDIT: On third look, I see that you have your arms away from your sides, and this might exaggerate the above situation.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

The suit has an unfortunate bell shape. The jacket ends at the widest part. It would be better if the pants were cut fuller. If the jacket pocket flaps can be tucked in or removed, the suit would look better.

 

[aj_del]

Why do some check jackets have unaligned checks at the sides while some are aligned ?

Mr.Despos explained some time back why these unaligned checks were acceptable when I posted the pics of this SC which my tailor made me and some of this would happen in all jackets and the degree to which it happens depends on several factors one of which is the tailor's skill.

But, in this second SC, the checks are (nearly) perfectly aligned. So, whats the difference in cutting ? what do I need to tell my tailor if I want to have aligned checks ? Or is this a SF thing which is no big deal IRL and I should just forget it ?

 

[sugarbutch]

I presume you're referring to the matching of the pocket pattern? In the top SC, the side seams appear to terminate behind the pocket, so there is one piece of fabric at the hem. The pocket pattern is matched to that piece of fabric. The second SC has one of the side seams going all the way through to the hem so pocket pattern doesn't align.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



I presume you're referring to the matching of the pocket pattern? In the top SC, the side seams appear to terminate behind the pocket, so there is one piece of fabric at the hem. The pocket pattern is matched to that piece of fabric. The second SC has one of the side seams going all the way through to the hem so pocket pattern doesn't align.

I think he's talking about the vertical pattern alignment across the under-arm seam, nothing to do with the pocket. The vertical seams/darts make horizontal matching impossible but I can't think of a reason why the the pattern couldn't be matching vertically. Also, not entirely sure what you're describing, as both coats seem to have a side-body (under-arm seam which goes all the way to the hem), preventing the pocket from matching along its whole bottom edge.

 

[sugarbutch]

Right you are. This is what I get for trying to think critically at 6 a.m.

 

[strcmp]

Hi

Could any of you give some feedback on this suit I just got.

It's a MTM suit. I like the modern, slim fit style so tried to get it as slim fit as I could.
note: In the 1st and 3rd pictures, my pants cuff was getting caught on the opening of the shoe, so it didn't come out right in the pictures.

My own comments:
1. The right shoulder doesn't seem to be at the same height. Should I ask to put some slight padding?
2. There is some fabric creasing in the front near the buttons when the suit is buttoned. Any ideas about what can be done about that?
3. The sleeve length and how much shirt shows at the cuff seems to vary all the time when i'm walking around.

Thanks

 

[neologism]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and a novice to wearing suits. I recently bought two second-hand suits and had some alterations done. I'm a bit disappointed, and not sure how much it has to do with my far-from-ideal physique and how much is due to tailoring problems.

First is a Jil Sander. The waist was taken out a bit. The back of the jacket has some obvious problems, and I'm hoping to get some feedback from you guys so I can feel like I know what I'm talking about when I take it back to the tailor to have him try again. What can be done about the rippling in the upper back/shoulders area? The way it appears to be pulling on my right side is a consistent problem even after I move around and try to readjust the hang of the jacket. The padded shoulders extend way past my natural shoulder, which I didn't think would be a problem when I tried it on in the store, but now looking at these photos I'm concerned that it just looks silly.



Second is an unbranded early 1960s vintage three-button. The sleeve attachments aren't looking very good to me. I realize that work on the shoulder/sleeve area can be expensive but I like the style and fabric of this suit and I'm willing to get it done right. Is it worth it, or will this always look like a cheap old suit?


And a question about trousers. Low-rise pants tend to fit me best, but suit trousers, including these, are designed to sit higher on the waist than where pants naturally tend to sit on me. Getting lipo done on my love handles isn't an option, so will I need to get suspenders for these trousers to avoid the droopy seat look, or is that something alterations can fix?

 

[a tailor]



Any suggestions on this? Obviously I need to shorten the sleeves. Anything else?

blake; the jacket seems to be too long. how tall are you and what size and isit regular or long?

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]



The padded shoulders extend way past my natural shoulder, which I didn't think would be a problem when I tried it on in the store, but now looking at these photos I'm concerned that it just looks silly.

You shouldn't buy any coat unless the shoulders fit properly.

 

[a tailor]



Hi

Could any of you give some feedback on this suit I just got.
It's a MTM suit.  I like the modern, slim fit style so tried to get it as slim fit as I could.
note: In the 1st and 3rd pictures, my pants cuff was getting caught on the opening of the shoe, so it didn't come out right in the pictures.  

My own comments: 
1. The right shoulder doesn't seem to be at the same height.  Should I ask to put some slight padding?
2. There is some fabric creasing in the front near the buttons when the suit is buttoned.  Any ideas about what can be done about that? 
3. The sleeve length and how much shirt shows at the cuff seems to vary all the time when i'm walking around.  

Thanks

yes you have a right low shoulder . a small pad would help but not cure it. a large pad would cause more problems.
your right hip is higher. the jacket should be let out there.
the sleeves always move when you move. just watch and adjust the one that seems to need it most of the time.

if you order again ask them to cut the right low shoulder,and the right hip larger.
on the trousers the right hip higher.
if the bottom of the trouser legs were larger the hem would come down farther.

second look. theres that bump below the collar. the back needs a bit of shortening at the top.

 

[a tailor]



Why do some check jackets have unaligned checks at the sides while some are aligned ?
Mr.Despos explained some time back why these unaligned checks were acceptable when I posted the pics of this SC which my tailor made me and some of this would happen in all jackets and the degree to which it happens depends on several factors one of which is the tailor's skill.
But, in this second SC, the checks are (nearly) perfectly aligned. So, whats the difference in cutting ? what do I need to tell my tailor if I want to have aligned checks ? Or is this a SF thing which is no big deal IRL and I should just forget it ?

were both made by the same tailor?
was the better aligned sc made first or second?

 

[a tailor]



Some of my MTM shirts get this diagonal creases running from the armpit through the chest (As seen on the photo). The other parts of the shirt fits clean to the body. Does anybody know what may cause this? How may it be fixed for future orders?

the shoulders are too square for your shoulders. they need to be more sloping. if you put on one of your shirts stand in front of a mirror.
someone else must do this. pick up the shirts shoulders till the crease is gone. then pin the amount of cloth that is picked up.
do this toward the outer part of the shoulder. do this on both shoulders. measure the amount of cloth that is pinned up.
this measurement may be different for each shoulder. send the measurements to your maker, along with two pictures of you wearing the
shirt. one wearing the shirt pinned and one unpinned. do not change any other measures.

good luck
alex