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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 440

post #6586 of 7065

Hi guys,

 

I was hoping to get some fit and alteration notes. Below are my best fitting pants (my only MTM pants, Indochino) and I want to adjust the measurements of these pants so I can place an order with another MTM company. I am going for casual, every day pants; I don't go into an office.

 

To me, the pants below look wide in the hips and have some bunching in the seat.

 

Any advice on where and how much to add/remove is greatly appreciated.

 

Created with GIMP

 

Thanks.

post #6587 of 7065
More evidence that MTM is a scam. You'd be better off buying OTR and altering where needed.
post #6588 of 7065

Can you give me an opinion about this suit?  I have some points that bother me but I'd like to hear a few other opinions first.

Thanks.

 

 

 

post #6589 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael81 View Post

More evidence that MTM is a scam. You'd be better off buying OTR and altering where needed.

 

Cool, thanks.

 

I am going to carry on with my plan to buy MTM, so any actual advice on how to adjust the measurements of the pants would be most appreciated.

post #6590 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slh View Post

Do these folds on the sides of the chest mean the shirt is too big in the chest? Or should they be there to allow more freedom of movement?
up
post #6591 of 7065
SIH
you have a very tough posture to work with
very wide square shoulders that where your shoulders roll and point forward.

not an easy fix unless there is a paper pattern to work with.


Gavin
you have very sloping shoulders.
needs a lot more slope
add to chest 1"

eljay
jacket looks short

Frei16989

sending measurements to another company many not guarantee a better fit.
every company has their own system.
post #6592 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

eljay
jacket looks short

 

Thanks. The design of the suit is kind of intended to have a shorter jacket.

I have another another issue with the jacket tho. I'm hoping that it might not be too obvious,

post #6593 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

SIH
you have a very tough posture to work with
very wide square shoulders that where your shoulders roll and point forward.

not an easy fix unless there is a paper pattern to work with.
thanks for your help. In your opinion what should be corrected and how can be done?
Consider this is a mtm shirt
post #6594 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eljay View Post

Thanks. The design of the suit is kind of intended to have a shorter jacket.
I have another another issue with the jacket tho. I'm hoping that it might not be too obvious,
nothing that was screaming out.. "Fix Me"
post #6595 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slh View Post

thanks for your help. In your opinion what should be corrected and how can be done?
Consider this is a mtm shirt

this needs to be addressed by the person who made it.
post #6596 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

SIH
you have a very tough posture to work with
very wide square shoulders that where your shoulders roll and point forward.

not an easy fix unless there is a paper pattern to work with.


Gavin
you have very sloping shoulders.
needs a lot more slope
add to chest 1"

eljay
jacket looks short

Frei16989

sending measurements to another company many not guarantee a better fit.
every company has their own system.

Thank you sir. Agree on the shoulders. I was considering dropping an additional 0.5", sound reasonable? Or even consider 0.75" from pic?

I agree chest is a little tight, but was more considering 0.5" as the previous shirt around the chest was far too loose. I am also thinking 0.25" more on bicep, what do you think? I want to reduce the back waist by around 1" as there is a lot of excess and increase front waist by 0.25".

Does his all sound logical?
post #6597 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavinband View Post

Thank you sir. Agree on the shoulders. I was considering dropping an additional 0.5", sound reasonable? Or even consider 0.75" from pic?

I agree chest is a little tight, but was more considering 0.5" as the previous shirt around the chest was far too loose. I am also thinking 0.25" more on bicep, what do you think? I want to reduce the back waist by around 1" as there is a lot of excess and increase front waist by 0.25".

Does his all sound logical?

sure micro manage the measurements.
the shirt looks awful
without know what system you are working with..
1/2" in the chest is nothing. you need more
you also need a lot more sloping.

what is wrong with the upper back.. look at the pulling under your right arm..

easing out the chest will automatically increase the sleeve.
post #6598 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eljay View Post
 

Can you give me an opinion about this suit?  I have some points that bother me but I'd like to hear a few other opinions first.

Thanks.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

Everything looks off to my eye. Shoulder and chest look too skimpy, too narrow. Creates the bow effect over your chest. "Divots" on sleeve. Lumps and bumps on the shoulder line. Button position is too high. When the bottom jacket button is above the trouser waistband, it's not  good look. Jacket could be 1" longer and still look like a modern length. 

Jacket has a feminine proportion, especially the length.  This proportion/silhouette creates an A line, narrow shoulder and chest to wide hips.

Trousers have no line, shape or definition.

 

My two cents

post #6599 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by frei1689 View Post
 

Hi guys,

 

I was hoping to get some fit and alteration notes. Below are my best fitting pants (my only MTM pants, Indochino) and I want to adjust the measurements of these pants so I can place an order with another MTM company.

 

Created with GIMP

 

Thanks.


This trouser shows all ubiquitous flaws in modern trouser patterns. Try a different maker that has a better base pattern and then tweak the measurements.

 

In tailor talk you need a straighter back part.  A different front/back proportion to balance the curve on the hip.  The line of the trouser is narrow at the thigh and makes the line below the knee look almost flared.

 

Just noticed you said you were going to adjust measurements and try another maker. If you use these same measurements with a new maker the fit and look of the trouser will be different because their pattern is different. You can't expect a direct correlation between two makers.

You have a pretty normal physique, order a basic trouser and assess the fit. 

When you do online MTM it might be costly because each try is taking a chance because you don't know the fit/balance of their patterns. When you work / order thru a tailor you gain his expertise and woking knowledge of the cut/fit of the pattern and his experience should guide him to make the necessary adjustments. If you are doing it on your own you are guessing.

You have to think of the first trouser as the equivalent of a basted try-on from a custom tailor and keep trying until you are satisfied with the result. Could be a steep learning curve.

post #6600 of 7065
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post


nothing that was screaming out.. "Fix Me"

Thanks for your reply. At least you don't seem to notice any major flaws which relieves me a bit. I'll mention what bothers

me about the suit below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Everything looks off to my eye. Shoulder and chest look too skimpy, too narrow. Creates the bow effect over your chest. "Divots" on sleeve. Lumps and bumps on the shoulder line. Button position is too high. When the bottom jacket button is above the trouser waistband, it's not  good look. Jacket could be 1" longer and still look like a modern length. 

Jacket has a feminine proportion, especially the length.  This proportion/silhouette creates an A line, narrow shoulder and chest to wide hips.

Trousers have no line, shape or definition.

 

My two cents

 

The thing about the button position, length of the jacket and the trousers is, they're all intended to be like that.

It's a Neil Barrett suit and if you google Neil Barrett suits you'll see many similar designs. What is not intended are the shoulders and they are what really bum me out. The length of the jacket sleeves were too long but the problem was that the sleeves have working buttons. 

 

The thing is that the last button hole is about 1 1/2 inches(4 cm) away from the cuff so I wanted to alter it at the cuff, thinking that taking away 1/2 inch would not be too close to the cuff and do the job. The tailor I went to also makes suits. He told me the perfect length would mean shortening it by about a bit more than an inch. He told me it has to be done at the shoulder because of the working buttons.  I was skeptical because I felt that is a big risk. He kind of talked me into it telling me he makes suits all the time but I was feeling weary all week, regretting that I didn't insist to have it altered at the cuff, even if that meant the sleeves were a bit longer than usual(sleeve length is a subjective preference at the end).

 

Anyway, I got the jacket back and my gut feeling was right that it was a mistake. 

 

Here is what the jacket looked like before it was altered. The suit is the same except for the arm length alteration:

 

The other thing that bothers me are the length of the pants that I had altered at a regular tailor. She was too scared to make them any shorter

because they're quite narrow at the bottom. I might have them shortened by an inch or so but that's just a minor change.


Edited by Eljay - 4/28/16 at 1:44am
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