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post #6361 of 6939
Fit critique please:

http://imgur.com/a/kM7S8

I ordered a shirt off of luxire. I feel that the sleeve width was a bit wide and the legnth a bit long so was thinking maybe decreasing these measurement by 0.25-0.5". I also felt that it was baggy around the waist/back area and decreasing that measurement by about 0.5". Also, any idea how to get rid of the bunching up around the shoulders?

TIA
post #6362 of 6939

Apologies for the double post in this forum - couldn't tell the difference between 'New thread' and 'Reply!'

 

I'm hoping someone here can help critique my new MTM suit! :)

 

I've been through this whole thread once already, and after being impressed with the amount of expert knowledge on here I thought I'd look for help with a new suit I've just received. I've Pm'd Despos, but thought I'd post here as I found it interesting in this thread to see the experts opinions on each fit issue.

 

I have had stuff made by the same company in the past, but never a full suit, so this time I made sure to get my measurements as accurate as possible (taken multiple times, etc.). The company told me about a service new to them, where they send out a 'Toile fitting' (which I assumed was kind of like a basting), which I hoped meant the finished suit would require as little alteration as possible. Or was at least within tolerances, and not way out.

 

So at first I thought the suit was great. It felt nice, looked fitted enough (although I only have two RTW suits with no alterations other than trouser hemming, so I don't really know what a suit should 'feel' like), although now I've had a chance to look at it there are some areas I want fixing (the company provides free alterations).

 

 

I've attached the pictures below, so please let me know what you think (they were actually taken on a fairly new DSLR, but I didn't realise until afterwards that the film speed setting must have been trying to compensate for bad lighting or something. I will take new pictures in daylight if required).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are the things I've noticed about the suit:

 

Trousers

- The trousers could do with some tidying up around the seat

 

- There's something funny going on above my calves. It looks to me like the rear of the trousers could do with being shortened, to 'pick up' the rear.

 

- Obviously they need hemming slightly

 

- Fronts seem OK?

 

Jacket

- There is something wrong with the shoulders. At first I thought I had wonky shoulder blades (I know most people do, although I'm right handed, so shouldn't my right shoulder be lower?), but looking at the suit makes me think there's something up with the shoulder pad on the right side. There are some strange wrinkles that pull from around my right collar down the front of the chest, which from what I've read on these forums could mean there's something up with the construction of the shoulder/shoulder pad.

 

- Related to the above point - I can feel some slight creases in the right shoulder pad when on the hanger, so maybe there's a small problem with the way it was put together. Also, I can't tell why but it feels more built up than the left pad (I asked for minimal padding). Maybe they've tried to compensate for a lower shoulder?

 

- You can see from the front and back shots that one side of the jacket is higher than the other. Haven't got a clue why, but the side with (what feels like) the thicker shoulder pad is also the side that sits higher...

 

- Also, the vent is open and the back is a bit messy, but I have a feeling that the difference in height of each side is 'twisting' the jacket and causing most of these problems. Although, would you say the waist may be too tight on the right side (causing the material to pull up onto my waist and causing the height differences)?

 

- There seems to be some excess material behind my armpits

 

- Those wrinkles across my shoulder blades. The Toile fitting had the same problem, so I asked them to lower the collar slightly, thinking that this was the problem instead of tightness. I wouldn't say the jacket feels tight across the shoulders, but do you think this could be the cause?

 

- The wrinkles at the top of my arms. I asked them to rotate the sleeves for the finished suit;  do you think this is a different problem, or just needs a bit more rotation?

 

- Sleeves obviously need shortening slightly

 

- Is there a bit of fullness on the right side of my chest? Or could this be caused by the whole 'twisting' issue?

 

- When the jacket is unbuttoned some of the creases disappear, and the height difference doesn't look as bad. Although, you can still see that the right shoulder is higher than the left.

 

- Collar gap. It's hard to see in the pictures but there is a very small collar gap; I asked them to lower the collar due to some wrinkles on the Toile fitting, but maybe they overcompensated?

 

- Also, the right shoulder issue causes the left side of the collar to sit strangely. It's like the left side of the collar sits further away from my neck than the right, and there is more space underneath the jacket above my collar bone on this side.

 

 

These are a couple more pics (again, really sorry about the quality, but they highlight what I'm trying to show). You can see from the front that the suit makes it look like I'm shrugging my right shoulder. Also, you can see in different light the issue with the waist, vent and height difference.

 

 

 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully the suit is not too gone to be saved, and I'll be giving the feedback to the company when I send the suit back for alterations.

 

 

I'll be taking some much better pictures in a few days, hopefully. Oh, and please give full feedback. There are certain style choices I purposefully made (jacket length, lapel size, etc.), however I did ask them to lower the button stance. Will have to make do I suppose.

 

Many thanks,

Dan.

post #6363 of 6939

I recently bought a Samuelsohn sportcoat from Saks Off 5th.

 

And it came with sleeves like this. 

 

 

 

 

I was wondering how much it would cost me to get them altered/completed.

post #6364 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin24 View Post
 

I recently bought a Samuelsohn sportcoat from Saks Off 5th.

 

And it came with sleeves like this. 

 

I was wondering how much it would cost me to get them altered/completed.

 

These are called "unfinished" or "basted" sleeves. There should be a bag of sleeve buttons in one of the pockets. 

 

If you have the buttons and you don't want/need working sleeve buttonholes, it'll cost somewhere around $20-40. More if you need the sleeve length changed, less if you don't. 

 

If you want working sleeve buttons, it'll cost approximately $10 per buttonhole, assuming that you can actually find somebody who can do this. 

post #6365 of 6939

 

 

 

 

Pair of made to measure pants, the length was alright but according to the tailor there's something structurally wrong around the fly area which caused a pulling that produced a lot of wrinkles. In addition maybe the waist is also a bit large as it sags in front as shown in the first picture. In the process of trying to get some better lighting as my house is a lightless pit of abyss. But as of now if you could enlarge the picture and turn your brightness up and any suggestions would be much appreciated. 

post #6366 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post

 

 

Pair of made to measure pants, the length was alright but according to the tailor there's something structurally wrong around the fly area which caused a pulling that produced a lot of wrinkles. In addition maybe the waist is also a bit large as it sags in front as shown in the first picture. In the process of trying to get some better lighting as my house is a lightless pit of abyss. But as of now if you could enlarge the picture and turn your brightness up and any suggestions would be much appreciated. 

 

 

post #6367 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post









Wow.
I don,t think I have ever seen anything quite like this before.
I really encourage you to send them back to wherever you got them and get a refund.
post #6368 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


Wow.
I don,t think I have ever seen anything quite like this before.
I really encourage you to send them back to wherever you got them and get a refund.

Essentially the company's offering to remake them free of charge so I'm just looking for some advices on how the remaking process should go.

post #6369 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Pair of made to measure pants, the length was alright but according to the tailor there's something structurally wrong around the fly area which caused a pulling that produced a lot of wrinkles. In addition maybe the waist is also a bit large as it sags in front as shown in the first picture. In the process of trying to get some better lighting as my house is a lightless pit of abyss. But as of now if you could enlarge the picture and turn your brightness up and any suggestions would be much appreciated. 

Keep them and pair them with this shirt:

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQp1-CBB3Mnu5QZvJVEj3WRXNs1FnGy1TfcIjV4lwXXBqzSrhRc 

post #6370 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post









Seriously, send them the pictures and get your money back. Find another source.
post #6371 of 6939

Camel hair blazer by HF for Polo

 

I'm 6' and 185lbs and the jacker is a size 42R Custom Fit

 

I usually wear a 40R but this was cut very slim and short so I sized up.

 

 

Is this blazer still too short for me?  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #6372 of 6939

Could be a bit longer, but i think that fits you pretty dang well. Waist might need to come in a hair, but other than that it looks good.

post #6373 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


Seriously, send them the pictures and get your money back. Find another source.

That's what I thought when I received the refund, then got an email saying that apparently since it turned out so bizarrely horrible they're offering to make me another pair that has no cost attached. Which is why I'm trying to get some suggestions on what went wrong and try to make the new pair at least 'acceptable' 

post #6374 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post

That's what I thought when I received the refund, then got an email saying that apparently since it turned out so bizarrely horrible they're offering to make me another pair that has no cost attached. Which is why I'm trying to get some suggestions on what went wrong and try to make the new pair at least 'acceptable' 
Well nothing useful can be extrapolated from those trousers from your end, or from anyone here.
They should look at the pictures and take the trousers apart to determine their own problems and what went wrong.

I don't know what information you supplied that could have ended up with these results.
post #6375 of 6939
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieuEtLesDames View Post
 

Camel hair blazer by HF for Polo

 

I'm 6' and 185lbs and the jacker is a size 42R Custom Fit

 

I usually wear a 40R but this was cut very slim and short so I sized up.

 

 

Is this blazer still too short for me?  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


It is a bit short, but it fits you so well otherwise, I'd not lose sleep about wearing it in your shoes. I'd wear it. Only we Style Forum folks will notice it anyhow.

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