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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 424

post #6346 of 6966

Hi everyone,

 

I just bought a suit online, they sent it to me unfinished so I have a week to send it back if it doesn't fit/can't be tailored to fit easily so I was wondering what people thought.

 

Sorry about the misfitting shirt, I lost a lot of weight a while ago and haven't gotten around to buying new ones yet when I saw this suit on sale.

 

 

 

 

post #6347 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by flvinny521 View Post


So you're bashing individuals who exhibit a stylistic quirk that you yourself used to enjoy?

 

Apologies for my late reply but here is how the last button looks

 

It is attached to the jacket but the hole it is supposed to go in is filled in by fabric which is something I've never seen before.

 

post #6348 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Thank you @Ttailor, this is very helpful. I will communicate these concerns with Luxire. I just have two questions, if you don't mind addressing them.
1) What do you suggest regarding the wedgie?
2) Please excuse my technical shortcoming, but could you please explain what you mean with this sentence after the first ",": Width across the front at hip level can be added, and it is best if that extra is added all the way to the waist, then reduced to the front waist size by means of a dart rather than curving the side seam more.

In order to get rid of the creases below the buttocks, I think I need to scoop out the seat a little more and raise the back above the pockets further, which I can't with this particular pair as I'm running out of hip width.

I don't have time to get into patternmaking here, sorry, but in a nutshell, you need enough width at the hips to allow the pockets to sit flat. You can add width to the pattern in the front or the back, at the outseam, from nothing at the knee, to an amount at the hip. If you carry that added amount right up to the waist, it makes the waist too big. To remove excess at the waist usually it is darted out, or eased in depending on how the patternmaker decides. Darts always in back, dart or ease in front.
post #6349 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin24 View Post

Apologies for my late reply but here is how the last button looks

It is attached to the jacket but the hole it is supposed to go in is filled in by fabric which is something I've never seen before.



The buttonhole doesn't exist before it is cut. It is just fabric.
Then stitches are put in ( here by machine) without the cut.
Just remove the button, stitch it in place on top like the others.
post #6350 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by naruyan View Post

Hi everyone,

I just bought a suit online, they sent it to me unfinished so I have a week to send it back if it doesn't fit/can't be tailored to fit easily so I was wondering what people thought.

Sorry about the misfitting shirt, I lost a lot of weight a while ago and haven't gotten around to buying new ones yet when I saw this suit on sale.












Go to someone and have them fit it for you in person.
post #6351 of 6966
Fit critique please and thank you



post #6352 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by theh00d View Post

Fit critique please and thank you




Very difficult to tell how the leg will hang after all that extra length is removed.
I think the legs are much too narrow but that,s just me.
post #6353 of 6966

Yeah I guess they do make my skinny legs stand out like a stick even more ha.

Thank you very much for the help Ttailor.

post #6354 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


The buttonhole doesn't exist before it is cut. It is just fabric.
Then stitches are put in ( here by machine) without the cut.
Just remove the button, stitch it in place on top like the others.

 

Do you think it would look wierd if I left it as is?

post #6355 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by naruyan View Post
 

Hi everyone,

 

I just bought a suit online, they sent it to me unfinished so I have a week to send it back if it doesn't fit/can't be tailored to fit easily so I was wondering what people thought.

 

Sorry about the misfitting shirt, I lost a lot of weight a while ago and haven't gotten around to buying new ones yet when I saw this suit on sale.

 

 

 

 

Too long, both in the sleeves, which can be fixed, and in the hem, which isn't so easy. 

 

Usually, the hem should end at about the knuckle of your thumb.

 

Send it back and find a brand that offers a shorter size.

post #6356 of 6966

Trying to trim down on a few issues with my (second) Proper Cloth Shirt -

 

1) First issue is clearly the fact that just above the midsection, there is major bunching of fabric under the armpits.  I don't think I have sloping shoulders as this doesn't happen on any of my other shirts.  I can't figure out what is causing this, but it looks horrible during the day.  Is it due to the fact that I have rear back pleats on the shirt?  This is very weird as the shirt armpit to armpit fits fine it's the fact that it appears it's only "larger" in between my armpit and midsection - no idea how to fix.

 

 

2) The second issue is that during the day, unless I really jam the shirt down into my pants and do some crazy tucking is the fact that I have major side bunching - which would be fine if not for the fact that it is so clearly wider than the midsection where it looks like I'm wearing a dress...I'm not sure how to address this; I was told it was perhaps due to the fact of my chest (20.50) -> midsection (17.50) -> Bottom hem (19.75); is this a large difference?  I'm not sure I can decrease the bottom hem much more as it's already JUST fitting easily over my crotch..any moreso and it'd be pulling at the button.  Is there an alternative way of solving this?  Perhaps explaining I need to "lower" the midsection on my body or something?  Would that just be increasing the length of the shirt even more?  It already covers my crotch...haha

 

Another shirt from Blank Label this time:

 

 

So, on this shirt I took the measurements of my shirt above, but altered slightly; Midsection from 17.50 -> 17.00, Chest stayed same at 20.50, Increased the Yoke from 17->17.25, shortened the shirt (31->30) and bottom hem (19.75->19).  Main issue now is the fact I can't raise my hands above my shoulder height; does this mean the armholes are too low?  I have no idea how to fix as they are the same length as shirt above..but obviously inhibiting my movement.  Shirt is also noticeably tighter when I put it on across my back from armpit to armpit.  Anyway to solve this?

 

Another issue here is the fact that I added darts where I didn't on the other shirt.  This may have also helped with the waist suppression; however, there is something weird going on with fabric bunching horizontally across my back right above the pleats...any way how ti fix?

 

 

Thanks!

post #6357 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by teknique22 View Post

Trying to trim down on a few issues with my (second) Proper Cloth Shirt -

1) First issue is clearly the fact that just above the midsection, there is major bunching of fabric under the armpits.  I don't think I have sloping shoulders as this doesn't happen on any of my other shirts.  I can't figure out what is causing this, but it looks horrible during the day.  Is it due to the fact that I have rear back pleats on the shirt?  This is very weird as the shirt armpit to armpit fits fine it's the fact that it appears it's only "larger" in between my armpit and midsection - no idea how to fix.






2) The second issue is that during the day, unless I really jam the shirt down into my pants and do some crazy tucking is the fact that I have major side bunching - which would be fine if not for the fact that it is so clearly wider than the midsection where it looks like I'm wearing a dress...I'm not sure how to address this; I was told it was perhaps due to the fact of my chest (20.50) -> midsection (17.50) -> Bottom hem (19.75); is this a large difference?  I'm not sure I can decrease the bottom hem much more as it's already JUST fitting easily over my crotch..any moreso and it'd be pulling at the button.  Is there an alternative way of solving this?  Perhaps explaining I need to "lower" the midsection on my body or something?  Would that just be increasing the length of the shirt even more?  It already covers my crotch...haha



Another shirt from Blank Label this time:




So, on this shirt I took the measurements of my shirt above, but altered slightly; Midsection from 17.50 -> 17.00, Chest stayed same at 20.50, Increased the Yoke from 17->17.25, shortened the shirt (31->30) and bottom hem (19.75->19).  Main issue now is the fact I can't raise my hands above my shoulder height; does this mean the armholes are too low?  I have no idea how to fix as they are the same length as shirt above..but obviously inhibiting my movement.  Shirt is also noticeably tighter when I put it on across my back from armpit to armpit.  Anyway to solve this?



Another issue here is the fact that I added darts where I didn't on the other shirt.  This may have also helped with the waist suppression; however, there is something weird going on with fabric bunching horizontally across my back right above the pleats...any way how ti fix?






Thanks!

So you have a shirt which measures 41" at the chest and 35 " at the waist? That explains it. The waist suppression is too much for a shirt and the only places available to reduce to the size you have asked for are the side seams (first shirt) and back darts. So the side seams are too angled and that is why you have the excess fabric sitting there.
Also, If the hip size is too small, the shirt has not enough ease to release down again after doing things like sitting or raising your arms.
Garment that are too toght will seek a smaller place on the body to relieve tension.

A shirt cannot be form fitting without darts and specific pattern modifications that go beyond what an average shirt draft is.
post #6358 of 6966

Hello there,

this is my first ever MTM shirt and naturally there are multiple issues. I view this mainly as a trial shirt to get closer to the measurements I will need for proper fit. Please note that these issues are likely due to my inexperience in giving the tailor the exact information and measurements he or she needed.

 

What I am looking for are suggestions for how this shirt could be altered to improve fit but more importantly how I should adjust the measurements for future shirts.

 

Measurements given to the tailor (Click to show)
  • Shirt length: 29 in
  • Chest: 37 in
  • Waist: 35 in
  • Hip: 38.5 in
  • Shoulder: 19 in
  • Sleeve legth: 34.5 in
  • Neck: 15 in
  • Wrist size: 7.5 in

 

Pictures of the shirt with arms in a normal position:

Pictures of the shirt with crossed and extended arms (Click to show)

 

My thoughts so far (please note that I really have no prior experience with this): 

  • Sleeves are too short
  • Fabric pulls beneath arms when moving them up
  • Too much fabric around the torso (?)
  • Sleeves are too baggy
  • Wrinkling of the yoke
  • Maybe I need a higher collar (?)

 

Hopefully somebody can help me out with this. Thanks in advance!

post #6359 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daraven View Post

Hello there,
this is my first ever MTM shirt and naturally there are multiple issues. I view this mainly as a trial shirt to get closer to the measurements I will need for proper fit. Please note that these issues are likely due to my inexperience in giving the tailor the exact information and measurements he or she needed.

What I am looking for are suggestions for how this shirt could be altered to improve fit but more importantly how I should adjust the measurements for future shirts.
Measurements given to the tailor (Click to show)
  • Shirt length: 29 in
  • Chest: 37 in
  • Waist: 35 in
  • Hip: 38.5 in
  • Shoulder: 19 in
  • Sleeve legth: 34.5 in
  • Neck: 15 in
  • Wrist size: 7.5 in
Pictures of the shirt with arms in a normal position:

Pictures of the shirt with crossed and extended arms (Click to show)




My thoughts so far (please note that I really have no prior experience with this): 
  • Sleeves are too short
  • Fabric pulls beneath arms when moving them up
  • Too much fabric around the torso (?)
  • Sleeves are too baggy
  • Wrinkling of the yoke
  • Maybe I need a higher collar (?)

Hopefully somebody can help me out with this. Thanks in advance!
Just a few thoughts. Who measured you or are you taking measurments based on a shirt you already own?
You have very square shoulders- let them know that. Yes sleeves are too short.
You cannot have a 19" shoulder and reduce the torso even more- just causes more problems. If you are looking for a very slim fit, then the yoke width/shoulder cannot remain too much wider than your body.
Flatter sleeve head will allow more arm movement (longer underarm seam) but makes a slightly wider sleeve and it will not hang as cleanly as you may think it should.
post #6360 of 6966
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


Just a few thoughts. Who measured you or are you taking measurments based on a shirt you already own?

Thanks for your input!

A friend of mine who has some minor tailoring experience did the measurements. I do not currently own any shirts that even fit remotely. Since I am very skinny and quite tall there never really were any retail shirts that fit me even remotely (even was told by a high end retailer that nothing would ever fit me unless custom made).

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